Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) with Polysorbate

Filtered by skin tone : Fair
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4.8

4 reviews

100% would repurchase

Package Quality: 4.0

Price: $$

Package Quality: 4.0

Price: $$

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on 2/1/2014 6:43:00 PM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Brunette, Straight, Medium

Eyes: Hazel

I am loving this. Effective, non-irritating, and easy to rinse. My current recipe for 5 oz of cleansing oil is:
2 ounces castor oil
1 ounce rice bran oil
1/2 ounce grapeseed oil
1/2 ounce avocado oil
1/2 ounce apricot oil
1/4 ounce Cromollient SCE
1/4 ounce Polysorbate 80

This makes a golden-colored, clean-rinsing oil with no scent.

I can use this for a nice long facial massage, makeup removal, and all around cleanser. I rinse with a cool washcloth (my rosacea can't handle a hot washcloth or steaming session). I've toyed with more expensive oils but this is my favorite combination so far. I've not had a single problem. No purging, no dryness or oiliness. I get my emulsifiers from lotioncrafter and they are pretty economical since you use a small amount with each batch. Also posting this review in the OCM topic.

7 of 7 people found this helpful.



Age: 25-29

Skin: Acne-prone, Fair, Cool

Hair: Blond, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Green

I have been using 9 parts hemp seed oil, 1 part polysorbate 80 as my PM cleanser and makeup remover for about 2 years now and it's about the best thing I have ever done for my face. I have combination, (very) clog and acne prone skin that isn't sensitive really, but hasn't reacted well to any foaming, cream, or other cleansers in all my 29 years. I originally tried the non-emulsified, massage-and-steam method of oil cleansing (which I reviewed separately) but didn't have a great experience. One day I was reading about someone who added polysorbate 80 to her oil to bind it to water so it would rinse clean and this sounded so... logical. My issue before had been that the oil would remove all of my makeup and suncreen and felt as though it was getting into my pores and cleaning there too BUT (excessive amounts of) steam were not fully removing the oil (and whatever gunk it had collected) from my pores. SO my face would look and feel clean, but I was getting an increased number of clogs and breakouts.

Enter an emusifier. The point of adding the polysorbate (or other emulsifier) is simply to bind the oil to water when you're ready to rinse. So I simply apply the oil mixture to my dry face, massage gently until I am satisfied that I am thoroughly clean, then rinse with normal, lukewarm water. When I add the water it even creates a tiny bit of lather, which makes it easier to get every last bit of eye makeup without being too rough on the delicate eye-area skin.

I initially started this with the thorough massage recommended with non-emulsified OCM but found that was too much for every night (yes, this method removed everything thoroughly enough that if overdone, I get dry!). So now, and for roughly a year and a half, I use the oil as I would a normal foaming cleanser most nights - just massage for a few minutes and rinse off. I only do a lengthy, deep massage about once weekly or when I feel like I need it (i.e. if my skin has been oilier than usual lately, if I've worn far more makeup than usual, etc).

After cleansing, my face feels clean but not stripped, dry or tight and looks even without any redness or irritation. I have had perhaps around 5% of my usual clogs/breakouts since about a year ago as well - though I don't think oil cleansing ALONE has done this, but the cleansing in combination with my other skin care rituals.

This is a really cheap cleanser too. I buy my polysorbate from GoW and the bottle I have (which I *think* is 4 ounces. since the larger size was out of stock last time) has lasted through nearly a year so far (probably have enough left for one more bottle of cleanser).

I really love that this rinses away clean and negates the need for a follow-up cleanser. I would recommend anyone who has had trouble finding a cleanser try this method BUT make sure you are using an oil that you KNOW works for your skin. I use hempseed because it's one of the only ones that doesn't break me out, I also use it as a face and body moisturizer and in some food so I always have it on hand anyway. I would highly recommend trying out whatever oil you want to cleanse with as a moisturizer first - otherwise, if OCM doesn't work for you, how will you know if it's the method or the oil?

13 of 13 people found this helpful.


on 3/27/2013 1:37:00 AM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Sensitive, Fair, Not Sure

Hair: Other, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Grey

I've been experimenting with rinsable oil cleansers since Retin-A made my cheeks too sensitive to tolerate the wiping involved in cold cream or regular oil cleansing. I still needed an oily cleanser since my sunscreen just laughs at soap and water.


The actual oils I used were consistent throughout my experiments, a combination of sunflower/coconut/olive I know my skin likes.


I first tried polysorbate-20 between 5 and 10% and had trouble finding a balance where the oil would rinse clean but not leave my face feeling tight and dry.


While I was waiting on an order of Cromollient I tried with some BTMS pastilles that I had left over from other projects: 1/2 tsp BTMS to about 8 Tb. mixed oils. This went much better. The BTMS provided a lush moisturizing effect and my skin wasn't dried out. It feels slimy or slippery when I rinse it, but leaves no residue and hasn't clogged my pores. I also like the milky, slightly thickened consistency the mixture has.


I only recently tried an oil blend with slightly under 10% Cromollient and I think on balance I prefer it slightly to the BTMS just because it's easier to rinse clean and does have a clean feel under my hands when it's completely rinsed off. It leaves my skin feeling even softer than the BTMS did. I think about 7 or 8% is going to be the right amount for me, otherwise it can be drying, but unlike polysorbate-20, there is a "just right" place I can find with it.


Bottom line, I'll use up the BTMS I have left but reorder the Cromollient.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.


on 2/5/2009 3:17:00 AM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Acne-prone, Fair, Not Sure

Hair: Blond, Other, Other

Eyes: Other

DON'T ATTEMPT OCM WITHOUT AN EMULSIFIER ........

See my review on OCM to read my horrible experience with this cleanser (boils all over from my neck on up that would break when I talked and left me with purple scars for years and years) and read about how castor oil contains toxins if not cold processed.

Warning: some skin can tolerate steaming and massaging and others cannot. I found that my skin is in its best condition with rare breakouts from using the oil mixed with an emulsifier as a regular cleanser (gently massage onto dry skin and rinse off). I do not steam, I do not massage for a long period, and I do not add essential oils to my brew because I break out from these methods. I also follow with a gentle but acidic toner (see below).

*****INFORMATION ON USING AN OIL CLEANSER WITH AN EMULSIFIER*****
I have been using an oil cleanser with an emulsifier for almost 10 years now! My skin absolutely loves it! I use a clean 8oz bottle and add the ingredients: 2/3 unrefined Hempseed oil and 1/3 Polysorbate 80. To use, I shake the bottle to disperse the emulsifiers. I put a Tbsp amount in my hand and rub it onto my DRY skin like a regular cleanser to get the makeup and excess oils off. I use it on my face, around my eyes and ears, and down my neck. It acts like regular oil until I rinse. When water is added it turns to a gentle white foam that rinses right off (thank you emulsifier). I pat completely dry.

MAKE SURE TO FOLLOW WITH A TONER AFTER to ensure you removed all the oils off the skin. I use 1-2 Tbsp of Braggs Apple Cider Vinegar per 8 oz bottle of water. I get white heads in my problem areas if I do not follow with a toner.

My skin loves this stuff! Most people can't believe I am 42 and challenge me on proving my age. Things I noticed within a month of switching to this cleanser: skin is balanced (no longer an oil slick 20 minutes after washing) and glows. It feels plump and moist. It is mostly pimple-free except when trialing new stuff like primers (which I combat the cystic pimples with Mario Badescu Buffering Lotion) and my pores stay smaller and cleaner. My face is the color of my neck (vs. shades lighter from the regular facial cleansers). I no-longer wear makeup! That is something that shocks me because I used to stipple on cream-pot type makeup, and concealer, followed by setting powder, than a layer of colors. The above makeup routine is no longer needed because my skin glows and has a nice overall color. It also has minimally aged. The wrinkles I have under my eyes have been the same since my mid 20's. I have the addition of some new sun spots (kicking myself for those couple of days when I didn't wear sunscreen!).

See my notebook for further details and options I explored when creating the oil cleanser.

76 of 80 people found this helpful.


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