Floralaldehydic leather soap and powder from the 1920s. According to Kafkaesque blog, strong fecal note, and reworked by Polge in the 1980s to increase the amount of iris and powder. I don't object to the animalic quality, but there are better unsweetened phenolic tobacco scents out there for less money. And, for those who wish the quintessential leather scent, with impeccable pedigree, history, and high price, that share the isobutylene quinolone, there is the original tabac blonde extrait by Caron (created several years before CdR that blows this out of the water entirely ( I think Tabac Blond (vintage extrait only) is 5 lippies worthy of an ode, and I don't crave leather). Tabac blond, originally conceived as a men's fragrance, is considered to be far less feminine than CdR (particularly the iris heavy one). Similarly Knize ten is reviewed by many to be far more masculine than CdR. Personally, I find the leather note in Tabac Blond and Knize to be very appealing, but I am a woman who likes a variety of scents including men's cologne. Knize is also described by some as animalic, rubbery, brash, depending on skin chemistry. I don't really recommend any current reformulations of Tabac Blond.
If you want to spend inordinate sums of money for an alternative lady like leather, try diorling extrait from the 1960s. For those who seek a more modern, minimal smoke leather, try Goutal's Eau de Fier which starts out stark smokey bonfire and morphs into rugged leather. And for a more testosterone leather, Tauers Lonestar memories. Leather tobaccos on my list that I have not tried (yet) are LT Piver Cuir de Russie; Dzing; le Labo Patchouli 24; Santa Maria Novella peau d' espagne; halston z-14. IMO, leathery fougeres like Hermes Bel ami, or green leathers like Bandit, are entirely different.
For those of us who like Vintage and for whom leather is not the only faucet of interest in CdR, (those who like the vintage aspects of a smokey creamy floral accord) should also try the much more reasonably priced Caron Nuit de Noel (several years after) which takes similar accords in a different direction. In NdN, the focus is camphoreous incense smoke opening that subsides to a creamy sweet caronade that is not as powdery or sharp as a Guerlainade. . Both CdR and NdN fragrances were created in the 1920s, and both have middle notes of rose, Jasmine, ylang ylang wrapped in aldehydes. CdR finishes with vetiver, styrax, leather, Amber, vanilla. NdN with incense, sandalwood, oakmoss, civet and the famed mousse de saxe accord ( which itself contains geranium, anis, leather, iodine). both are classified loosely as oriental florals; NdN is also considered a chypre due to oak moss. Neither are sweet or gourmand, and both are a bit boozy ( I find the discontinued tea for two sweeter, but also boozy in the same way).
CdR (both the CdR in the rue cambon trio as well as a sizable decant of older EdT) has a floral Chanel 5 feeling. Iin its opening, CdR reminds me a bit of Miss Balmain (vintage extrait square bottle) crossed with a large dollop of no 5. In the dry down, both CdR and NdN are a bit soapy clean skin. When I read that the powder and iris were increased in the 1980s reworking of CdR, part of me wants to dig out my coffret vial of FM iris Poudre.
Note: re leather scents. I have a skin chemistry issue with some leather that I think of as too green, e.g., Piguet Bandit or EL Azuree (the feminine companion to Aramis. Today Azuree would be considered unisex or masculine IMO). CdR, IMO Does not read as such a strong green leather. (I love green Galbanum but with leather, it's hard on my chemistry). IMO fumerie Turque is a totally different smoke fragrance, much more sweet and powdery with a modern niche type overdose of Amber and vanilla. Coromandel, With the emphasis on sandalwood, is totally different in character, both more powdery and less floral, than CdR. Although aramis is considered a leather, to me, CdR is feminine, and aramis is not. There is an aramis Havane that might be a possibility. Some people recommend Bulgari black as a leather. My feeling about Burberry black is rose and rubber. (I don't necessarily view that as a bad thing, just a different category altogether)
I must admit that I was intrigued enough by the positive reviews of the vintage fragrance Avon Leather (1966 men's cologne that definitely seems uber masculine from the reviews) that I searched out and bought some new old stock. I figured that for the price, it can almost be a scent experiment: I can layer it with something floral to get a more feminine or unisex scent. Will update when I get the chance. If you have read any of my prior reviews, I am a fan of vintage Avon (assuming it's in good condition - much of it has been exposed to light and heat and is spoiled and skunky). And, it's my belief that high end niche fragrance houses like Roja Dove are returning to some scents that are considered vintage in style.