Okay so this is one of those products that definitely isn't for everyone, and from comments I've seen online it seems pretty divisive, I guess because of how extreme it is. I'd personally say only use it as a last resort, for example if you have acne scarring; particularly the pitted kind. I wouldn't use it myself for anti-aging or if you already have flawless or near flawless skin. It's not that it's horribly risky, but there is of course SOME degree of risk involved when using needles on your skin so proceed with caution and do your research first.
I had small boxcar and rolling acne scars on both cheeks, which were mildly pitted. Foundation didn't cover them, so with nothing to lose I figured I'd fork over $60 for a dermaroller. As of this review I've been micro needling for 2 years (2015 and 16) and it's been an interesting experience, one of the most brutal yet effective beauty tools I've ever used.
I bought my roller from Dermacare Direct after hearing from friends who bought one there. It's lightweight with a clear plastic handle and teal blue head with titanium needles, and came with a sterilizing solution, plastic case and instructions. I read online that a 0.5mm is best to start off with, so that's what I got. I washed my face with gentle soap and some water (don't start out with irritated skin and do not needle open cuts, sores or acne; this is very important). I then put my hair back off my face and sterilized the roller, before rinsing it with hot water and letting it cool.
I then used the roller over my cheeks, pulling the skin taut with my fingers and moving the roller back and forth firmly. I think the thing that freaks a lot of people out about this device is the fact that, to use it *properly* (the way it was intended), there is usually a minor amount of blood drawn, which you can just wipe off with a clean damp washcloth as you go along. The roller works by piercing the skins epidermal and dermal layers; the needles breaking up old scar tissue, the longer the needles the deeper they pierce (though I don't advise going bigger than 1.0mm, even for very pitted skin). The skin then treats the piercings like an injury, and sends new collagen to repair them thus filling in the acne scars. You may hear a faint popping sound as you roll, which can be trippy. I don't like it so I listen to music.
I won't lie, this hurts A LOT imo and if you can get yourself some topical numbing cream, do so. Unfortunately it's hard to get a hold of where I currently live. It feels like what it is: being stabbed with lots of tiny needles. The pain is worth it, however, as I personally did see results. After rolling your skin should look pink and feel tender (like mild sunburn), which will last for around 2 or 3 days before peeling/flaking off.
I leave six weeks in between sessions as the skin needs time to repair itself; apparently the older you are the longer you need to wait, i.e. a twenty one year old may need 6 weeks but a 31 year old may need 9. After the first 3 or 5 rollings my scars began to fill in a little. I kept going every 6 weeks and now, 2 years on, they are all but filled in. A doctor told me when I was 15 that I'd be 'scarred for life' thanks to acne, and it feels awesome to say I have proved her wrong.
So, overall, the dermaroller DOES work, at least on acne scarred skin. It takes time and dedication, pain tolerance and good hygiene to see the results; it is not an insta fix. If you're going to use it, first ask yourself whether your skin is 'bad' enough as this is a drastic measure. Make sure you buy the correct length of roller, preferably a 0.5mm to start out. Sterilize your roller and rinse with hot water before and after using. Buy one that has titanium or stainless steel needles, and preferably a case. I don't personally apply anything after rolling, I just eat almonds for the vitamin E, though if you do apply something it will absorb deeper so its the best time to.
Don't share your roller with anyone, don't use on active acne or if you are taking blood thinning medication, and discontinue use if you have a bad reaction.