Product Reviews by jtcomboy

Fragrances - Annick Goutal - Un Matin d'Orage

4.0
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May/04/2009

Notes: Sicilian lemon, perilla leaves, ginger, gardenia, magnolia, jasmine sambac, Indonesian champaca, sandalwood.

Un Matin D'Orage is a very fresh white floral (gardenia), aquatic and ozonic. Said to be inspired by a Japanese garden after a storm, there is an almost prickly electrical buzz to this scent, along with an incredible dewiness, like raindrops cascading over soft white …
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Fragrances - SHISEIDO - Nombre Noir

5.0
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Feb/20/2009

I recently acquired a small 4 mL mini of this legendary scent.

Straight out of the bottle, it has a dark, rosey, plummy, chypre quality, reminiscent of SL Rose de Nuit (which of course came after it). The rosiness is intense, like a rose so deeply red that it is black. At one end, it quickly evolves a deep smokiness that brings to mind gentlemen in velvet smoking jackets, smoking fine …
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Fragrances - Hermès - Caleche

5.0
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Dec/05/2008

This review is for the vintage parfum.

Calèche (1961) a beautiful floral chypre, but also has aldehydic-floral qualities. Astringent in its opening, with that chypre growwwwl, and then it starts to bloom with just the right balance of powderiness, citrusy notes, and florals. The aldehydes lighten the severeness of the chypre base, and it ends up feeling rich, sumptuous, and masterfully …
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Fragrances - CHANEL - Cuir de Russie

5.0
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Sep/14/2008

Chanel's Cuir de Russie, composed by the legendary Ernst Beaux, is an absolute masterpiece, and one of my absolute favourite fragrances. The leather of its name is given an air of luxury through the addition of Beaux's signature accord of jasmine, rose, and ylang ylang, together with a slug of effervescent aldehydes (just as in the iconic No. 5). These floral elements are perhaps the …Read more

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Fragrances - Ava Luxe - Kama

4.0
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Aug/06/2008

Notes (from the Ava Luxe website): Exotic musks, Ambergris, Civet, Black Amber, Labdanum Bulgarian Rose absolute.

A lovely, sexy animalic. Mustier than Serge Lutens Muscs Koublaï, and more resinous (probably the amber and labdanum). For some reason, it reminds me dark bedrooms paneled with mahogany wood. In addition to the listed notes, I also get hints of leather and tobacco. This …
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Fragrance - GUERLAIN - Mouchoir de Monsieur

5.0
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Aug/06/2008

I've heard it described as a more civet-y Jicky, and there is certainly some truth to that. The civet is present a low level funkiness, but really mostly provides richness and warmth to the floral notes (lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli). There is some citrus that brightens the accord. As it dries down, the vanilla in the base makes it warm and cozy like many Guerlain fragrances. I find that …Read more

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Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur - Dzongkha

5.0
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Jul/03/2008

Dzongkha was created by Bertrand Duchaufour, and is part of L’Artisan’s travel series (along with Bois Farine and Timbuktu). Dzongkha was inspired by Duchaufour’s trip to Bhutan, and by the “stones and incense from the temples called Dzongs.” I love Duchaufour’s work on Timbuktu, so I had high hopes for Dzongkha.

According to L’Artisan, Dzongkha includes top notes of peony, lychee, and …
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Fragrances - The Different Company - the Different company Osmanthus

4.0
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Jul/03/2008

Jean Claude Elléna’s Osmanthus for The Different Company sets the slightly-soapy apricot-peachiness of osmanthus flower in the center, and gilds it with a touch of citrus and a hint of pepper. The overall effect is of a ravishing sunlit beauty with a touch of reserve.

Elléna’s style is often remarked for its transparency, considered by some to be over-refinement and a certain …
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Fragrances - Acqua di Parma - Colonia Assoluta

4.0
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Jun/30/2008

I tend to subscribe to the ‘fragrance wardrobe’ school of thought, as opposed to the idea of a single ‘signature scent.’ Just as you wouldn’t wear a full length evening gown to a barbecue at the beach, different kinds of scents are appropriate to different occasions, and it’s nice to have a varied fragrance wardrobe with different options. The Eau de Cologne genre is the olfactory equivalent of a …Read more

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Fragrances - Frederic Malle - Une Fleur de Cassie

5.0
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Jun/29/2008

Une Fleur de Cassie (UFdC) is by Dominic Ropion for Frédéric Malle. Ropion builds this scent around an accord of cassie, mimosa, and jasmine, with rose, carnation, vanilla, and a spicy-woody sandalwood base. Cassie is actually Acacia farnesiana (and not cassia), which makes this scent kissing cousins to Caron’s Farnesiana. However, I would say that UFdC is emphatically Farnesiana’s vastly more …Read more

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