I wasn't expecting to like this as much as I do. For lovers of vintage fragrance in the bracing opening. This reminds me of vintage Miss Dior or Aliage, but in the fast evolving dry down, easier and more mellow to wear. It was created in 1969, around the same time as EL Azuree and Guerlain Chamade.
Reads on my skin as sharp vintage style green chypre moss opening. I have read that Greene chypres don't age well. It opens sharply, but if your bottle is uber skunky, then perhaps it has turned or spoiled. Dry down is relatively gentle, clear skin scent evocative of expensive perfumed luxury hotel soap of my childhood. Dry down is soapy not powdery. Not as powdery old fashioned as, for example, cotillion. Not noticeably floral. It reminds me of vintage dab of youth dew bath oil. (I would only use YD in vintage bath oil form, not the perfume). For me, it is gently sweet in the dry down, but not in your face, amber or gourmand.
I don't think it's much like Miss Balmain because miss Balmain has a more spicy carnation, which somehow makes it warmer in my lexicon. . .
I have not tried vintage Dioressence, but I think it was mentioned in Emperor of scent, where it was inspired by was a cheap Miss Dior inspired functional airplane soap product plus ambergris?
Note: I have to retest vintage Vol de nuit extrait, but I am wondering if it is similar to this. It is my opinion that the guerlain EdP versions of the old vintage greats (before the theirry wasser re-engineered oakmoss etc) amplified the sweet powdery aspects of the dry down (most clearly in LHB). This doesn't have the exaggerated throat parching powderiness.
Bird of paradise notes: for some reason, I cannot find the composition on basenotes or fragrantica. My particular bottle is relatively dark, but it seems to have held up well.
Vol de nuit notes: classified as a balsamic green oriental chypre 1933: bergamot, Galbanum, petit grain; oak moss, daffodil/narcissus; jasmine; sandalwood, orris root/iris, amber, benzoin, castoreum.
Miss dior vintage 1947: bergamot, Galbanum, clary sage, aldehydes; jasmine, orris root, narcissus, LOTV, carnation, rose; oakmoss, sandalwood, laudanum, leather, amber, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla
nuit de noel vintage extrait (soft oriental chypre) is still head and shoulder above this in it's darkness, but perhaps NdN EdT in the faux stingray bottle which I think very highly of): original formulation was supposedly rose absolue, jasmine, ylang, LOTV, vetiver, amber, iris, plus Mousse de Saxe plus sandalwood. Mousse de sax was geranium anise leather iodine and vanillin.
Note: I think both. Caron and Guerlain famously used an adulterated, impure vanillin in their original formulations.
BoP, Possibly one of my favorite avons. I retested again: one dab of BofP on the left arm; one dab of miss dior EdC, this time not the black and white checked bottle of older EdC, but rather the later edition glass vertically ribbed bottle with gilt cap and atomizer (I think from the 1980s). The opening of the BdP is more pungent and transition into the dry down (a matter of 5-15 minutes) is a touch more camphorous and green herbal. The later version of vintage Miss dior (is less funky and more delicate and mellow than the older black and white checked bottle). The older vintage version of miss dior is more biting Galbanum than either the later, still vintage miss dior or the BdP. But I think BdP comes closest to Miss dior.
I got my adorable frosted glass caterpillar of BdP with screw on gilt top for maybe 3.99 usd for 1/8 ounce. Vintage Miss Dior EdC isn't pricy either.