Soft, woody, oriental, yet fresh. A precursor to serge Lutens orientals, vintage Dune forshadows gourmand, yet is not cloying. I almost want to say it opens with the crispness of SL Gris Clair and dries down to something like Chergui.
To call Vintage dune edt an oriental is almost to do it a disservice. It's is nothing like a modern gourmand sweet, powdery, cloying oriental. Nor is it like a traditional oriental, in the style of a big house, like Guerlain. Yet, it's definitely a western fragrance, which to my mind signals Western Sensibility or French. I cannot quite explain why I think it's modern (in a classic post modern sense which is clearly not the same as modern, today). It's Dry, but not camphorous or acrid the way some modern niche can be. Nor is it fusty or musty or old. its almost seamless in its composition - no overdose of a fashionable ingredient like oud or incense here. It has the back bone that I wish some of the serge lutens fragrances could have. It has weight, heft, density without being suffocating. It's not frilly or cute or pretty but to me it's unabashedly sexy in a very streamlined way. I believe it was composed by Sieuzac, and I have recently worn a bit of vintage Bel Ami and Fahrenheit which are also Sieuzac creations. They are obviously composed of different accords, but they cohere in the same way.
Agree with Shazzer1976's comment that Dune references desert, not beach. Sorceressofthedark lists it's notes, but it's one of those compositions that transcend notes. In fact to read the notes, I almost feel like wow, I cannot quite get a handle on the scent of these disparate parts.
Some reviewers mention calzone. I don't get a lot of calone here, but I have not worn anything with a marine note in many years, so my nose is out of practice I with those types of fragrance notes.
Recently I tried Maroc pour Elle.MUA reviewer Zeynepad noted a similarity to Dune and I thought there was a similarity somehow to Zino davidoff. . . So I thought it would be interesting to compare the accords of these different scents. MpE opens with Jasmine. Zino is distinctly masculine. . . .
Accord in MpE: Petitgrain (bitter orange), Lavender, Rose, Jasmin, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Patchouli
Accords in Zino Davidoff: Bergamot/citrus, rose, Patchouli, cedar wood, sandalwood, Lavander, vanilla, musk, civet
Accords in Dune: mandarin, bergamot, peony, broom, Jasmine, rose, palisander, patchouli, Amber, oak moss, musk, vanilla, benzoin