Coty Emeraude

Coty Emeraude
Emeraude (1980s)

3.4

50 reviews

60% would repurchase

Package Quality: 3.0

Price: $

Package Quality: 3.0

Price: $

INGREDIENTS


Start your review


Age: 36-43

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Neutral

Hair: Brunette, Wavy, Fine

Eyes: Green

Stunning. Multi-faceted.
Truly a gem; this deserves to be in an art deco splash bottle displayed on a vanity, not stuck in a generic drugstore shelf collecting dust.
My vintage bottle comes from the 80s with a small tassle. I can see why many people might be afraid to even spray this on a test strip, from the nozzle it smells like some sort of household cleanser. However, this develops smoothly on the skin, each group of notes bringing their own unique glamour to this fragrance.

CHARACTER REFERNCE: Whenever I review a scent, I like to think of the woman who might wear it.
It might not be quite bold enough for the brazen Miss Fisher (Tabu, perhaps?), but I can definitely imagine her giving it to her sweet assistant Dot, as a gift for a night out at the local jazz club. Flirting with the wild side, Dot wears her beaded flapper gown to an Egyptian themed NYE party. Usually fresh faced, she lines her eyes in kohl and her lips are a vampy red. As a final touch, Miss Fisher attaches a brooch to Dot's dress; the scarab beetle. Adorned with emerald and rubies encased in gold, Dot is truly transformed from a simple house servant to an exotic, sensuous woman.

WET ON SKIN: Smells like a lime green syrup, something very tart yet slightly sweet, like you might use for sno-cones or lemon-lime mixed drinks. Feels youthful and spunky, energetic.

DRYDOWN: Hard to describe, but as it dried, it reminded me of so many BPAL oils I've tried over the years-fresh flowers and citrus notes that is blended in a way that smells exciting, not safe, predictable, or too clean smelling Then the soft sexiness comes in. Oh my gosh, this is so soft and warm. Not jeans and a thick sweater cuddled up in a blanket, more like warm skin caressed by jasmine and patchouli incense or exotic amber vanilla bath oils that left a gentle scent behind. It's a bit powdery, but not in a way I find offensive at all. Actually, it tempers the oriental element, making this a bit more wearable for those who might be a bit gun shy when it comes to trying the classic perfumes such as Shalimar, Youth Dew, Opium, etc. There's a sweetness that lingers, ever so softly; never moving too far away from the exotic beauty that it was intended to be.

Deducted 1 lippie for staying power, perhaps it is because mine is an older formulation or maybe it's just my skin, but this only lasted about 4 hours or so before I needed to reapply.


4 of 4 people found this helpful.



on 12/29/2016 10:03:00 AM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Normal, Fair, Not Sure

Hair: Red, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

Ahhh, Emeraude. It's downmarket, the packaging is laughably basic, and it's been so badly reformulated that I can only recommend vintage bottles from the early '90s or before. However, this timeless fragrance is my spirit animal and I love it with all my heart.

Growing up, we were of modest means. If my mom coveted an expensive fragrance, she'd make do with free sample vials from Saks or Neiman-Marcus. On the other hand, Emeraude was something she could walk into a drugstore and buy. She referred to it as "poor man's Shalimar," as they are both lemony-vanillic Orientals from the decadent 1920s-- but the truth was that she owned Shalimar too, and she still preferred Emeraude. I do too. Shalimar is undoubtedly a more expensively made scent, but it's got a weird burning tire/gasoline note that jars my senses.

Emeraude, on the other hand, purrs like a kitten as it progresses seamlessly on the skin. it starts with some refreshing lemon-limey/bergamot topnotes, which smooth out into a balmy resinous vanilla; after about an hour, you're left with a plushy, powdery benzoin haze that melds gorgeously with the natural scent of skin and lingers for hours. Emeraude is tenacious, but it's got excellent manners and it never overwhelms. I love everything about this fragrance, starting with the unusual olive-absinthe color of the juice itself. I love that it has a rich history and was originally Francois Coty's very elegant, daring, and coveted creation and not a drugstore chestnut in a plain green box. I love the warm, comforting feeling I get from wearing it. It's truly worth discovering!

Now, tips on finding vintage juice on eBay. True vintage bottles from the 1920s-1950s can be quite pricey; this is when Coty still packaged the fragrance in stoppered Art Deco crystal and ornate boxes. However, anything from the '60s-'90s is both good and cheap. The color of this product has varied over the years, going from apple green to a more yellowish olive, and (in its recent horrid formulation) back to bright green; so color is not a reliable indicator of age. Instead, look for the "Coty" logo in cursive rather than plain block letters. Parfum or eau de parfum formulations are always vintage, as are any splash bottles. For the rectangular spray bottles, the word "Emeraude" should be printed on the cap rather than labeled on the bottle. "Special edition" spray bottles in green crystal are vintage as well. Good luck and I hope you enjoy this classic beauty as much as I do!

12 of 12 people found this helpful.


on 11/29/2015 5:33:00 AM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

I am reviewing the Eau de Cologne in a rectangular bottle, new formulation. For the record I have never smelt vintage.

I love Shalimar, so I've been wanting to try this for a while. As it is unavailable in Australia I purchased it as a blind buy off Ebay. Alas, it's not for me. It's very pretty, and yes I can see the similarities to Shalimar, but it's just too light and soft to cut it.

It starts off with a lovely fizzy rush of citrus, followed very quickly by just a hint of rose and then loads of fluffy vanilla scented powder. The rose quickly dies and I am left with a soft citrus on a base of a quite foody vanilla and dry powder.

Unlike Shalimar, the citrus lasts for the whole of the wear time, and it's a fairly tangy citrus. The bergamot used in the top notes of Shalimar is much more rounded. Without Shalimars leather and incense to ground it, the vanilla is just too pretty and gourmand for me.

To summarise, if you mixed a citrus based eau de cologne with vanilla body spray and added just a touch of Coty powder, this is what you would have.

Longevity is around 4 hours. Sillage is fairly soft.

Luckily I have found a way to redeem it. I have a musk/patchouli fragrance oil. By layering the two together I get the benefits of light citrus and vanilla with the dark musk and patchouli. It's still a little more powdery than I'd like, but layered, these two make a lovely cool weather, snuggle up on the couch fragrance.

Worn by itself I would say this fragrance is best for lovers of vintage perfume who find that Shalimar is too much of a sexy beast/night time perfume for them. If Shalimar overpowers you but you love that initial citrus/vanilla opening, Emeraude may well be right for you.

4 of 4 people found this helpful.


on 8/20/2015 7:18:00 PM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Very Oily, Fair, Warm

Hair: Brunette, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Brown

I've been a little obsessed lately about trying some of the great original old-timer fragrances. I've reviewed L'origan already and am now on to her smokier sister: Emeraude. Ebay can be such a treasure if you are lucky! I got a 3-piece Emeraude set from someone who found an estate sale bargain. For less than $15, I got a splash on cologne, a spray eau de parfum, and a little cute green pot of solid parfum. I cannot comment on how vintage this vintage is. I imagine some purists would say that any reformulation and you don't have vintage any more. I am not informed about how to tell age by packaging and so forth, but this has got to be a few decades old at least.

The splash starts out with a hit of citrus; I don't know particular notes and can only write subjectively. It then deepens into a smokiness that is unusual and unlike anything else I have smelled. Sadly, the splash is a fugitive scent on me, and I suppose I'm not surprised. I think that this would smell lovely on a scarf that you whip out on a cold day!

The eau de parfum is like the splash, only deeper, less citrus on impact and a bit more complexity--something spicy and woody along with the tartness.

The little pot of solid parfum looks like it has dried out a bit over the years. I figured that it would be either hit or miss, but still a bargain with the other 2 bottles. The first time I tried on the solid, all I got at first was lemony furniture polish. It was awful. I washed it off right away and figured it had gone bad and there would be no redeeming it. But I just couldn't throw it away: It was old, it had a history--unknown to me--and is just so charming.

So I've kept at it and given it a chance and I'm so glad I did! It takes about 20 minutes for the initial polish-like smell to wear off, and then the scent starts to develop into something just indescribable and lovely. I did buy a tiny sample of vintage Emeraude parfum from Surrender to Chance--it is just gorgeous and unique and I'm so sad that Coty has become "just" a drugstore brand of "cheap" fragrance. Emeraude is how I wish Shalimar or L'heure bleue would smell on me but just don't.

I'm wearing the solid at the moment--I had to struggle through that opening yuck of the lemon pledge, but now, on this cool Minnesota evening, it smells like a lovely sweet smokey bonfire of leaves and sweet woody bark, some spice, a bit of powder... Compared to the zillions of fragrances churned out endlessly these days, Emeraude--the vintage--does smell powerful and unusual and "old" but in good ways. It has a mature character that can't be matched by anything created for the mass market. And nowadays, everything is created for the mass market, in our aspirational, consumeristic world.

6 of 6 people found this helpful.


on 1/16/2015 7:23:00 PM

Age: 25-29

Skin: Normal, Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

This stinks so bad! How could any sane person give this a good review?? It smells like cheap old lady perfume and cheap pine tree air fresheners. Hope I never get caught on an elevator with someone wearing this!


on 12/14/2014 6:07:00 PM

Age: 36-43

Skin: Normal, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Red, Curly, Medium

Eyes: Hazel

I love this! This starts off green and citrusy. Then as it drys down it becomes a lovely gentle soft unique thing. Wonderful!

3 of 3 people found this helpful.


Age: 36-43

Skin: Very Oily, Fair-Medium, Neutral

Hair: Brown, Wavy, Fine

Eyes: Grey

I wish I had been able to catch a whiff of this in a pre-1980s bottle form!! This reminds me of Jean Nate, Woolworths, CoverGirl, Coty Airspun loose powder, Youth Dew, & old ladies like my mammaw had the dyed red hair too w curlers & a perm. I am fairly certain it's been reformulated into a faint shadow of itself in its former glory which is a bloody crying shame!! I didn't realize how many fragrances Coty still makes, they do try & keep themselves current from being obsolete w the younger crowd (N. Minaj, Beyoncé, etc) whilst trying to keep their more "mature" customer base.

6 of 7 people found this helpful.


Age: 30-35

Skin: Sensitive, Fair, Not Sure

Hair: Blond, Other, Other

Eyes: Blue

I got this for $5.99 at the Grocery Outlet so the price was extremely reasonable. I am not crazy about it, but I am not going to get rid of it in case I "grow into it" or something. Although I think that might take a long time.

Anyway, when I first sprayed it, it smelled very familiar to me, and had a spicy smell. The die down after that was just a sweet, powdery smell that reminded me of my grandma. I mean that very literally, I am not trying to say this is a perfume an old person would wear, but in my personal experience it reminds me of my grandma and her apartment. I don't hate it, but I don't really like it either. I would classify it under "okay"


on 2/17/2013 6:04:00 AM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Medium, Cool

Hair: Silver, Straight, Coarse

Eyes: Green

I've never been privileged to try any vintage EMERAUDE, sadly; I'm just spraying on the EDC I got dirt-cheap at WALGREEN'S. And as others have said here, even though it may be a whisper of its former haute-couture glory, it's still HANDS-DOWN nicer than any of the new celebuscents made for women these days. I'm a fella and I have no problem wearing this EDC as a nice, clean daytime, all-purpose scent. At first blush it may seem like SHALIMAR, but really it is quite different: Where SHALIMAR is famous for its head of bergamot, lemon and citronella, whisper-kissed by galbanum, EMERAUDE has instead a head of what seems to me to be sweet orange, "clean" starched linen-like aldehydes, and coriander bestowing the faint lemony-green quality some detect on first spray. EMERAUDE also has a traditional heart of romantic rose laced with near-subliminal notes of cinnamon and clove. What makes EMERAUDE really different is its very prominent opoponax heart... opoponax, that sharp-smelling resin which initially smells somewhat like that spraycan adhesive we used to use in the 2nd grade in the 1960's on our Christmas projects (haha), but when it settles, it becomes this regal shaft of resiny yellow-gold, with gorgeous, surprisingly sucree hints of burnt caramel around the edges. EMERAUDE's vanilla is more sweet, floral and unadulterated than the smoky/burnt/incense-y, WD-40 vanillin of SHALIMAR. In my opinion, EMERAUDE does not contain lime; rather, that "creamsicle" quality is a blend of straightforward sweet orange mingled with opoponax, benzoin and vanilla; I think EMERAUDE's verdant jus is what's convincing people they smell lime. EMERAUDE's oriental base contains a tonka bean much more obvious than that of SHALIMAR's; that cherry-vanilla-tobacco kind of smell, blended with sandalwood and amber. (to some, the cherry-like smell of tonka conjures up McDonald's restrooms). Strangely, I do not detect patchouly, though I'm certain it must be there in tinctured, "cosmetic" aura, rather than in its usual green/earthy musk. EMERAUDE contains noticeably animalic hints of deermusk (that "kitten's belly" tender, furry smell, so well-loved in MY SIN and others) and an indolic civet (lending it that slightly urinaceous, slightly "mothball" quality that is responsible for the "old lady" remarks, I am certain.) though EMERAUDE's civet is dialed-down from SHALIMAR'S ripe civet presence. . Personally, I adore the animalics, so these "old fashioned" smells thrill me. Maybe the crowning note of the base is a fairly prominent vetiver... a tarry foil to the perfume's sweetness, giving the whole fragrance that earthy, grounded, rooty, "tailored" aura... vetiver is also a very classy smell, I think, and the vet here is much stronger than any SHALIMAR might have. For a mere $11.00, one can get a real feeling of how great French EMERAUDE must have been when it was new. Interesting to remember that EMERAUDE predated SHALIMAR by four years. As I understand it, those now wishing to re-capture its vintage thrill need to look for it on auction websites in the "parfum de toilette" (sic) strength... (basically an EDP). This is a cheap way to smell really, REALLY good.

>>>UPDATE: A friend has gifted me with some 1970's-vintage EDT of EMERAUDE. Oh yes, there is a big difference between it...and the new EDC (of Walgreen's provenance). The older version is much more nuanced, and does a leisurely unfoldment on the skin that allows you to appreciate its note/pyramid better. BIG aldehyde burst on initial spray. A creamy iris is more prominent, bearing an almost-chocolate-like nuance. The vintage has a much more prominent cedar, married to the opoponax, that has a nice "pencil shavings/hamster cage" quality. The vintage has more intriguing bitter nuances to the head than does the modern EDC.

18 of 19 people found this helpful.


on 1/23/2013 9:01:00 PM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Normal, Fair-Medium, Warm

Hair: Brunette, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Brown

I am on the drugstore perfume fix and glad i picked this up. This might not smell quite like the vintage perfume, but nevertheless it is wonderful. The initial scent is citrusy and slightly green. Then the draw down is a slightly powdery, faintly spicy floral. To me its beautiful and elegant, not cheap and cheeky. The sillage is moderate and lasts longer than your typical drugstore scent. This green lovely will have a place next to my other drugstore favorite, tourjois moi.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

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