Guerlain Mitsouko

Guerlain Mitsouko
image 1

4.0

279 reviews

67% would repurchase

Package Quality: 4.3

Price: $$$

Package Quality: 4.3

Price: $$$

INGREDIENTS



Age: 44-55

Skin: Dry, Fair-Medium, Cool

Hair: Other, Curly, Medium

Eyes: Green

As I get older, my tastes are changing. I find that I prefer heavier, spicier, stronger scents and am finding I enjoy the older classics more and more. I recently tested Mitsouko in a store (my preferred method is spraying my hands and then forgetting about it for a bit). I left the store and was delighted that soon I detected some soft wafts of an "oriental" vanilla drifting towards my nose. I waited perhaps 15 minutes before allowing myself a good sniff. Absolute disgust! What would posess anyone to EVER buy this stuff? The lovely scent I had detected earlier must have been something else in the store! It never got better and I assumed the store tester had been old. The following week, I simply hit the "buy" button at Fragrancenet and bought both Mitsouko and L'heure Bleu. I tore into the package as soon as it came and spritzed each onto my arm as I made dinner...again, making myself "forget" I was testing. Mitsouko again hit my nose and I HATED it. Pure chemical. Smelled like "Bon Ami" or "Comet"... something bleachy and abrasive. There are truly very, very few fragrances I don't like (Angel is the only other one that immediately comes to mind). I thought things would get better. As I slowly fell in love with L'heure Bleu...my disgust and dissapointment at Mitsouko grew. But, as I am not one to give up easily (I WANTED to LOVE Mitsouko...it came out the year my grandmother was born!) I tried it again the next day, wearing no other fragrance. Nooooo...certainly this couldn't be the fragrance everyone raved about. The gorgeous, picturesque descriptions I had read came nowhere close to this faux "oriental" I was sporting. I love chypres. I love big, obnoxious, loud, deep, sweet and yes, sometimes even harsh fragrances. I do NOT want to smell like I just cleaned the bathrooms and forgot to wash my hands, however. I have accepted that Mitsouko and I were not meant to be. I found it another home very quickly. L'heure Bleu and I, on the ither hand, have become fast friends. You win some, you lose some. Nahema will be my next test subject.



Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brown, Other, Other

Eyes: Hazel

Classic winter fragrance for sure. I'm surprised they still make it, warm and woodsy. Parfum at it's best. Pure Parfum and the eau de Parfum are my favorite, creamy woods and spice, the eau de toilet is a bit more sharp spice leather and woods. A man could wear this just fine.

2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.


To Read all 278 Reviews, Login or Join


Login with Google



Age: 56 & Over

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Neutral

Hair: Brunette, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Green

I absolutely adore this extraordinary, rich, complex, spicy, divine and seductive fragrance perhaps more than any I've ever found. And my husband adores me when I wear it.

5 out of 5 people found this review helpful.


on 9/18/2014 12:20:00 PM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Olive, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

I have two bottles of mitsouko: 1. mitsouko extrait, a modern rendition from a 2013 batch, under Thierry Wasser, which has gotten decent reviews perhaps due to re-engineered oak moss; 2. mitsouko parfum de toilette, vintage 1980s. Both make me very happy, and together, with all of my other bottles of perfumes, the mitsouko I own is a lifetime supply.

The vintage parfum de toilette spray is louder, sharper, more 'retro' (BTW, PdT was engineered to be like that). I prefer to decant it into a dabber glass bottle (in order to do that, I had to hack open the bottle) to minimize the 'throw' of spray (spray disperses three times the amount and I am an under applier of scent); after I did that, it also evolved more quickly into the warm spicy dry down. Dabbing also reduces any Guerlain powderiness. If applied by dabber, the dry down of PdT is closer to the current extrait on my skin.

A dab of the extrait results in less product, and a quick morph into soft delicious spicy skin scent effect. I have not experienced vintage mitsouko extrait or vintage or current formulations of EdT. I only wear perfume on the wrist. I dislike sillage and elevator nausea.

Finally, although mitsouko is classified as a fruity chypre, it's not the type of fruit modern fragrances purport to represent. That is to say, it is NOT fruity translucent or juicy, and you are not supposed to smell like an actual peach. Even mid century vintage diorella, vintage rochas femme, or vintage patou colony have moister fruit tones. Nor is mitsouko straight mossy (the way a mid century leathery green chypre can be which I think can be musty and is subject to deterioration. mitsouko is spicy, golden, dry Sensual, but not limited to feminine - that is to say, if it works on your skin chemistry, it become individual irrespective of gender. Mitsouko is also salty and reminds me of Chinese salted plum candy. This is a very different treatment of fruit than the modern honeyed fruit treatment in Serge Lutens et al. And, the saltiness is somehow redolent of iodine, with an almost metallic edge which is what other reviewers may describe as medicinal especially when combined with the clove carnation Eugenol. Regardless of the various elements, I would suggest to those who are not accustomed to vintage, waiting for the dry down which is marvelously smooth and warm.

EL vintage spellbound extrait, released in 1991, squat squared crystal dabber bottle with stopper and liquid that is golden to dark amber (I don't recommend the light green current spellbound) has similar rounded carnation spiciness but without the savory mitsouko peach richness). Spellbound is a tad more feminine; whether that makes it more dated is a subjective call. (I don't have any dentistry association with clove). Edit: the dry down of a new dead stock mini bottle of vintage Patou Colony (pineapple versus peach) is very similar to the Mitsouko dry down. So close in fact that I would say if you like one, you will definitely like the other. However, colony does have a greener opening that with Costus root (also in piguets Bandit) is not flattering on my skin chemistry.

Note: my skin chemistry does not render Mitsouko musty (my skin chemistry also does well with Une Fleur de Cassie - which MUA reviews seem to treat as if it were ELdO's magnificent secretions, and I have no problem with Guerlain AA Pamplelune). I do have fond memories of a brief phase in my life when I wore miniskirts and smoked clove cigarettes which was in my youth. So, although of Mitsouko is a historic vintage scent, it has no old lady association for me. In contrast, my grandmother did think Mitsouko was old lady. She wore things like Joy and Caron Narcisse Noire (which is urinous on my skin), and then later, DVF's Tatiana (and convinced my aunts to wear the same for years until Eau d'issey). Spicy fragrance is like a mini skirt - it cycles in and out of style. (It came back in, in the 1950s with Caron Poivre, in the 1970s with men's fragrance, and with opium and Egoiste. . . ) I don't know if roja doves Diaghilev is like this, but I suspect it may be, and Diaghilev is certainly modern niche although it references vintage.

Whether you can make an older vintage fragrance young and timeless is based on how you interact with it. With respect to style, I am also very happy to wear Mitsouko with a vintage (from my closet or another's) Chanel jacket and jeans, and most people perceive me as decades younger than I am. . . So it's all relative. And, my husband, who is also perceived to be younger as well (he wears FM Vetiver Extraordinairre) loves the dry down on me. I believe that he could also wear Mitsouko. Those who are accustomed to mainstream sweetened fruity floral scents should not expect a similar rendition of fruit in a vintage chypre. It would be like comparing a fruit gummi bear to dried fruit macerated in Eau de vie or fruit juice to wine. They are just very different.

8 out of 8 people found this review helpful.


on 9/17/2014 7:14:00 PM

Age: 19-24

Skin: Oily, Olive, Not Sure

Hair: Black, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

Queen of Chypres

There isn't much more to add to what has been said. We know it's significance. It has it's place in history of perfume, it's been called the best of all time etc.

It's oakmoss and peach and rose and many other things, it's like a secluded garden in a forest full of flowers, with the smell of rain still in the air. Jacques Guerlain wanted to evoke with this "the smell of a womans skin". I understand what he was trying to do.

I also don't see how anyone would not like this. It's floral, fruity, but so deep and earthly and rich and very hard to describe. I find it very unique. A wonderful mossy, beautiful fragrance, and a wonderful experience to smell. I really think everyone should try this. I don't think "old lady" or other labels. It really doesn't smell like much else and it was the inspiration (like Jicky and Shalimar), for not just many other classics, but also much of what we have today in the world of perfume.

I think this should be preserved forever as something really special. It has no gender, time or place. It should stand as something for all and everyone, and for all time. Real art in a bottle. Wonderful stuff!

7 out of 9 people found this review helpful.


on 8/30/2014 1:19:00 PM

Age: 56 & Over

Skin: Acne-prone, Fair, Not Sure

Hair: Brown, Other, Other

Eyes: Green

I kept thinking about this fragrance as it is so well reviewed and described on mua and one weekend I finally saw it at a large department store. I sprayed the little card with it and some managed to get on my little finger. I smelled it and then the card and put the card in my bag. Wow what a fragrance no wonder so many people think so highly of it, it is strong however the strength doesnt make a person go into spasms, what it does is have quite a lingering presence. I didnt buy it because I had no time to wait for a sales person to accomodate me but brought the sample card home. The scent didnt stay long on my finger bec I wash my hands quite often. Now I have to be honest here, the card held the beautiful scent of peaches, incense and a lot of florals and it lasted actually on the card that I had on the side of my tub for 2 weeks, I kid you not. At least twice a day I would pick up the card to smell this lovely scent. I cannot go into detail about the flowers that make up this scent but I also smell deep citrus, deep oakmoss and no wonder this perfume has been around this long bec it lasts and lasts even on paper. I will purchase the next time I am able to get to this dept store. This is a beauty and it actually reminds me of the warmth and deepness found in another favorite of mine Paco Rabanne Metal. Only Mitsouko is much stronger.

2 out of 3 people found this review helpful.


on 6/12/2014 1:38:00 AM

Age: 36-43

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Hazel

Edit: It has become far and away my favorite fragrance. I only have 10 ml so I hoard it. It was recognizing that it smells like a homemade, rich spicy peach pie that helped me understand it, and now it's the most decadent thing I have and I'm crazy about it. This is probably my HG.

Four wearings now.
Today was the first day I could even detect any peach.
The first wearing, the chypre was too much for me. It's so not-sweet, not easy. it's a heavy, serious smell.
But I tried it again. The second time, I noticed that the drydown smelled an awful lot like horehound candy, or sarsaparilla. That was intriguing enough to keep me interested.
So I wondered what part of Mitsouko was vetiver, and set out to Nordstrom and Surrender to Chance and did vetivers. I love vetiver now. And even though I've learned that vetiver isn't the main note, I love the note that is there a lot.
The thing about Mitsouko is that it gives different impressions all day long. I'll catch a whiff and think, mosquito spray. And then I'll smell that chypre. And then I'll get that root beer impression.
Today I smelled the bottle itself and yep, there it was. Not a fresh juicy peach. A spicy peach pie. A really nutmeg-y, rich peach pie. Now I'm catching hints of that, in with the chypre.
Over the course of four wearings, I've become strangely addicted to the odd thing. It's a far, far cry from the modern offerings at, say, Kohl's. Those all smell like varying flavors of daquiri to me. I had no idea there were perfumes like this after a steady diet of Escada and Pink Sugar and various Burberry bottles.
This is a very non-trivial scent.

8 out of 9 people found this review helpful.


Age: 36-43

Skin: Combination, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Brunette, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Hazel

Right from the start, I never bought this perfume, just tested it.

And as you guess from this statement, I´d never buy this perfume for me.

Finding a new perfume is alway a chore for me. Right now, I have exactly 1 perfume I´d buy again and 2 others I don´t bother to buy again.

I thought I´d stray from my usual clean-scented perfumes and find something completely different for me.

Most perfumes smell awful on my skin. It´s just my skin´s chemistry and I don´t blame the perfume. I´m very sensitive towards fragrances too and get a headache easily from bad perfumes.

Mitosuko was not meant for me. While I wore Samsara several years, Mitsouko smelled really bad on my skin..

One perfume review described Mitsouko´s smell:

"Mitsouko is one of the well known aromas of chypre olfactory group with cool top notes and oak moss in the base. But it also has a note of a juicy peach, which gives a clear and quite gourmand nuance. It features bergamot, peach, jasmine, may rose, spices (cinnamon), oak moss, vetiver and wood."

I definitely couldn´t smell any of the mentioned flowers or spices on my skin.

Hate to say it, but it smells like mothballs or rather clothes, that hung in a mothball filled closet for years.

It had no development on my skin, no depths, no undertones, just a flat powdery scent clinging to my skin.

In fact, it was overwhelming powdery on my skin and the whole day I wore it, I couldn´t detect any of the described undertones and basenotes.

I´d strongly suggest to test this perfume as it is a very classical scent from 1919 and if you´re used to "modern" perfumes, this migth be a olfactoric shock to you.




Age: 19-24

Skin: Oily, Dark, Not Sure

Hair: Black, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

I got the EDP during a 6 hour wait at cdg airport after smelling some - quite frankly - atrocious scents (that's you, poeme by lancome!) and I'm glad I did.

I didn't want to rush into buying it so I spritzed some on and took a long walk to let the scent develop on my skin properly. I wasnt wowed at first spritz but when it dried, it evolved into this complex mesh of glamorous feminine elegance. I'm not usually one for powdery scents but there's truly something special about this. I find it quite alluring and it grows on me more each time I wear it. The staying power is fantastic as well.

Mine came in a classic gold box that I found quite refreshing given how busy perfume packaging can be.

If I ran out, lost or broke my bottle in a freak accident, I would definitely re-purchase

1 out of 1 people found this review helpful.


on 10/19/2013 8:45:00 PM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Acne-prone, Tan, Warm

Hair: Brunette, Curly, Fine

Eyes: Brown

I've tried a few Guerlain perfumes over the years namely Shalimar, Samsara, L'Heure Bleue and Idylle. Samsara and Idylle smell divine on me but the rest (even though they smell good in the bottle) end up smelling putrid on me. I guess there's something in my DNA that just doesn't mesh well with Guerlain perfumes. Despite this, I decided to try Mitsouko mainly because I was on a Jean Harlow kick (this was reportedly her favorite perfume) and partly because I went through a very short lived phase of buying perfumes I've never smelled just because I could (By the way, this is a very silly practice and I don't advise any one do it unless you like collecting perfumes you don't use or you're super rich and simply don't care).

I'll say this much, Mitsouko is not your run of the mill, peppy fruity/floral perfume that you'll smell on every other woman if you're at the mall. As with almost all Guerlain scents, there is something moody and haunting about it. There's a darkness to it that is mellowed by the peach note and it is rather heavy. It actually is a very lovely scent that has amazing lasting power but on me, this just smells awful. Other people think it smells lovely on me but there's something in it that I just don't like. It also gives me a raging headache even if I spritz a tiny amount so, unfortunately, this will just sit in my drawer. I do take it out from time to time because the bottle is beautiful but as far as wearing it, I just can't bring myself to do it again.

If you're looking for something off beat yet classic and sophisticated, I would recommend this. I can easily see this being the signature scent of someone who can pull this off because it is an usual and unique scent that people remember.

3 out of 4 people found this review helpful.

Popular Fragrances


Coco Mademoiselle
Coco Mademoiselle
1406 Reviews
Black Opium
Black Opium
61 Reviews
BOMBSHELL
BOMBSHELL
153 Reviews
La Vie Est Belle
La Vie Est Belle
180 Reviews
Si
Si
66 Reviews
Back to Top