Hermes Caleche

Hermes Caleche

3.9

71 reviews

66% would repurchase

Package Quality: 4.2

Price: $$$

Package Quality: 4.2

Price: $$$

INGREDIENTS



on 9/28/2015 12:47:00 PM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Olive, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

Edit: added a lippie; have been wearing this more because my husband likes it. . . And it's growing on me despite, well, see below. . . .
-----
This is not my type of fragrance at all. It's an aldehydic floral with an emphasis on white florals. i historically don't care for the category (I loath white linen and was never a fan of no 5, even the vintage EdC which was considered the most muted on aldehydes and the most animalic. I also have problems with indoles in white flowers). I have read reviews stating that Caleche is most similar to vintage Chanel EdC, but I disagree. I don't get much if any civet in Caleche.

I actually dug out Caleche in part because I had such a negative reaction to Kelly Caleche yesterday, and because I am finding a renewed sense of appreciation for older Hermes fragrances (I am fond of wearing Eau de Hermes, Bon Ami, and Equipage vintage), I dabbed some Caleche on today, and it doesn't smell so bad. It actually is kind of nice, understated and clean, and the dry down is subtle on the skin. ( I dislike spraying fragrance And I hate sillage). my husband, who has a much more keen and refined olfactory sense, commented on how nice I smelt. I have tried hundreds of perfumes that elicit no reaction, so this is worth noting in my world. He said I smelt like me, and I refrained from acidly stating, you mean like a boring aldehydic leather floral chypre that I used to wish my mother would wear twenty years ago when it was widely available in duty free? I wish I got that reaction from him when I wear Voleur de roses, POAL, almost every Frederic Malle, or any Guerlain, Caron, Serge Lutens, Amouage, or other perfume house, from Luxury to niche, but no. I also never got that reaction from him when I wore NR musc oil for her, original edition, or Egyptian goddess etc., etc., or the limited edition distributed by Jovoy, Lys Epona, or l'arte di Gucci EdP that cost a fortune to find, or when I sampled any JAR fragrance at Bergdorfs or in Paris. ... .

It is less sharp and less bright on aldehydes than Chanel 5. More dusky than EL Beautiful, Amouage gold. Both Caleche and Amouage gold are by guy Robert, with the latter enriched by frankincense from Oman, that IMO makes it a softer citrus leathery and gives it a lift.
Dry down is more soapy than powdery, but I assume that is skin chemistry dependent.

It's not at all like soie version or Kelly Caleche. Nor is it like the heavier, more powdery , darker Madame rochas which came out same year by Guy Robert. I find it almost unisex, which is good, given I am fond of men's cologne. Since my husband likes it so much, I have worn it more and the dry down is a subtle skin scent.

Note: I will probably revisit Avon timeless (Avon came out with timeless several years after Caleche). for comparison. Since I am not a minimalist, I also enjoy layering Caleche over a dab of Avon Leather, vintage 1960s to amp up the leather.

1 out of 1 people found this review helpful.



on 10/10/2013 5:05:00 PM

Age: 25-29

Skin: Acne-prone, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Blond, Curly, Medium

Eyes: Green

Caleche smells exactly like high end expensive soap with hints of florals, very clean-cut and classy. For a chypre it's rather friendly, the oakmoss doesn't smell too dark and mossy here. Good sillage and longevity. A wonderful perfume but too old school for me to wear, I feel more comfortable with Infusion d'Iris for my clean smelling fragrance fix.

4 out of 5 people found this review helpful.


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Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Warm

Hair: Brunette, Other, Medium

Eyes: Brown

I've always loved Caleche. It's uber sexy vampy and daring. This is a chypre (similar but different to EL Knowing, Clinique Elixir and Lavin's Arpege). But it's more soapy and sandalwood comes through very sharply, more so than any of those scents listed. The drydown is very soft. I do love it. You only need a bit to smell wonderful. So go easy on this one. If you are looking to own a bottle -- one ounce is about all you need. A little goes a long way.

3 out of 4 people found this review helpful.


on 6/27/2013 1:35:00 PM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Red, Other, Other

Eyes: Hazel

This is how I would scent a blonde Scarlet Johansson.
Chandler Burr calls Caleche 'austerely beautiful' and austerely beautiful she is. Only, you need to like aldehydes to enjoy her beauty. She is very similar to Rive Gauche on my skin, but perhaps fuller, rounder and more demure. If Rive Gauche is this woman with a bob or a pixie cut who enjoys silver jewellery, Caleche is a woman who likes voluptuous curls and gold. It's interesting that Rive Gauche is very similar to Amouage Dia on my skin while Caleche is very much like Gold (both are by Guy Robert). My nose perceives aldehydic fragrances as total abstractions and cannot focus much into their floral notes, but I can sense some velvety, powdery iris in the heart. The drydown is clean, chic and comfortable on my skin. I think Caleche is timeless and very chic.
Medium sillage and very good longevity.

3 out of 3 people found this review helpful.


on 6/19/2013 11:38:00 AM

Age: 36-43

Skin: Other, Fair, Cool

Hair: Other, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

Love Caleche so much! I had it first in my twenties, but it didn't suit me then - time was needed to grow into it.
Caleche is utterly classical French perfume. Clean, aldehydic, incredibly classy, timeless, elegant. It can be a little buttoned-up, a real 'madame'. But that's what I love about it, and in my mind I group it with Madame Rochas (also by perfumer Guy Robert), White Linen, No. 5, Molinard by Molinard as one of my 'Virgo' perfumes. They give me a sense of tidiness, control, all things operating as they should.
Caleche especially conjures a feeling of that moment just before leaving for an exciting, anticipated trip - everything is planned, in place, and unknown wonders await. It hits a certain spot of comfort, memory and emotion for me like no other.

6 out of 7 people found this review helpful.


on 2/16/2013 6:30:00 PM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Other, Not Sure

Hair: Brown, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

Caleche has the classic structure - floral, light sweep of citrus on top, classic sandalwood/oakmoss base, and aldehydes twanging up an down the structure. The vibe is is powdery, with dry and clean floral, more oakmoss than woody but palpably both, and an overall clean feel. The florals include neroli, but Caleche has more rose/iris -- 24F has much the same vibe, but with a big orangeflower/neroli charge and huge patch-y woody base.


Caleche's sillage is astonishingly light. I frankly don't understand why they ever made an eau delicate, because it is one inherently. A perfect office/evening out fragrance in that it is subtle, elegant, and clean, but also surprisingly delicious to snuggle into bed in. The packaging is, of course, exquisite.


I'm very impressed by it.

6 out of 6 people found this review helpful.


on 1/4/2012 11:22:00 PM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Warm

Hair: Red, Other, Medium

Eyes: Hazel

Upon immediate application this smells a bit aldehydic and vintage. It's very soapy, fresh-scrubbed, and classic. It smells like money. I imagine high-society ladies of the 1950s smelling like this. I'd give it a 3.5. It isn't very "me", but I can appreciate it just the same. It doesn't last very long though and the sillage is only apparent for the first hour.

3 out of 5 people found this review helpful.


on 11/7/2011 12:36:00 AM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Green

I got this free! FREE! from my mother (works in a department store in a city that was hit by an earthquake this year so they got a lot of damaged stock free...) Anyway, its not something I would normally wear. I'm more into the fruity, foody, honey or woodsy scents. But! this smells gorgeous. Flowery, powdery, expensive. Skates dangerously close to being nana-ry but doesnt quite make it, in my opinion. It's beautiful and elegant.


on 10/18/2011 3:36:00 PM

Age: 25-29

Skin: Normal, Tan, Warm

Hair: Black, Curly, Medium

Eyes: Black

Starts off with a juicy citrus aldehydic burst, then softens to powdery floral with touches of rose, ylang ylang and iris. A musky, leathery, animalic note lingers in the background and grows more apparent as Caleche dries, keeping the florals from going too powdery or sharp. Warm mossy dry woods round out the scent, and I can't help thinking this is one of the truest chypres I've smelled thus far. Feminine and classy with a hint of masculinity to give pause. I can understand references to Chanel No.5, but Caleche seems more like a second cousin rather than a direct relative.

3 out of 3 people found this review helpful.


Age: 44-55

Skin: Dry, Fair, Cool

Hair: Red, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Blue

This review is for Calche eau de toilette by Herms, current formulation. I got just a moment of vague floral chypre before it all turned to eau de soap suds. Thereafter, sniffing became pointless. So sad. Basenotes reports that Calche was "re orchestrated" in 1992. I haven't yet sampled an earlier formulation to compare. Would not repurchase.

2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.

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