All right, first, the rest of the reviewers are crazy. Crazy! This fragrance is tormeting me. I'm trying to pare down and no-buy, but from the first sniff of this from a sample vial, it's been wearing me down. Beautiful. Gorgeous. Stunning.
One of the reviewers below actually sampled this with me, and I hope one day she amends her review to admit that on other skin (mine for instance!) this works.
To start, this is the ghost of a carnation. That's not a bad thing -- it isn't a ghost in that it's faint (far from that). It's a near carnation, an artist's impression of a carnation, the construct from alike materials of what should be a carnation but isn't quite, or an abstracted carnation.
There's a gorgeous musk in the base, and I mean, GORGEOUS. GORGEOUS!!!!! Flamingly beautiful, clean, crisp, yet soft at the same time. Over it floats a peppery/spicy note. Normally I detest pepper in fragrances but here it works, probably because it is part of a spice accord - nutmeg, allspice, brush of clove. For once, the clove in a fragrance doesn't tromp all over everything -- this really, literally, is a light brush, almost not clove at all except you catch the sweetness and then follow to the clove. Underpinning, and yet floating on top the whole, is vanilla. It isn't VANILLA, it's a soft, clear sweetness, almost marshmallow.
The ingrediants twine around each other and shift - first a spicy musk, then a peppery musk, then a spicy/peppery vanilla, then a hauntingly sweet musk... This morphs for hours. I've put barely a toothpick's worth on the back of my finger and twelve hours later am still getting soft whiffs of sweet/peppery musk. I finally caved in and bought this and I'm furious, but... it is brutally beautiful. Lutens, you're killing me.