Fendi Fendi Theorema EDP [DISCONTINUED]

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4.2

77 reviews

79% would repurchase

Package Quality: 3.9

Price: $$$

Package Quality: 3.9

Price: $$$

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on 7/20/2017 1:30:00 AM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Sensitive, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Red, Other, Other

Eyes: Grey

It is absolutely heartbreaking that this perfume has been discontinued. Of all the scents I have worn and loved, it was my absolute, unequivocal favorite. I wore it during the happiest time of my life, discovered it during a wonderful holiday shopping trip with my sister at Saks, and strongly suspect that I will never find anything I love so much, nor will there will ever be another like it in my lifetime. I am deeply regretful that I didn't hoard multiple bottles of Theorema while it was still around...and affordable. (Actually, I did but they were all stolen, along with nearly all of my family's multi-generational heirlooms and almost everything else of value that I ever owned, but that's a sickening, evil and tragic story for another day.) My Theorema-wearing days mark the happy period of my life before that horrifying incident...and all the trauma which followed...and its existence provides a clear distinction between the "before and after" of that unspeakably terrible demarcation of time.

One of my favorite childhood memories involves my grandmother's shadow box and the amazing perfume collection she displayed inside of it. One of those perfumes was an Evening of Paris miniature I used to love to take out and sniff (and sometimes, on special occasions, I'd even guiltily dab on a little bit).

Theorema is this generation's Evening of Paris and I only wish that I had a miniature of it to display in that shadow box my beautiful grandmother passed down to me (and by some miracle is still with me). Perhaps it is for the traumatic associations and reasons I list above that I so love the review I'm sharing below. It comes from a website called "theblacknarcissus.com," and there is no way I could ever describe it so perfectly. Enjoy:

"Theorem. There is something in that keystone of pure mathematics that hints at astral beauty and the awe of the unknown: the study of space and structure, of change and motion, the meshing of abstraction and logic. The tracing of patterns in an unfathomable chaos.

In a sense, there is a reflection of this in Fendi’s defunct perfume from 1998, Theorema. A wonderful balancing act of legible complexity, it is a harmony of disquiet and languid lean whose soft, diaphanous features drape over a garnet bone structure. Both supine and regal, the abstraction of the composition seems perfectly logical when worn on skin: comfortable and eclectic. Like those algebraic abstractions, there is a sense of something ethereal and outside of ourselves and yet, at the same time enveloping us.

A spiced, woody oriental with a gourmandish character (but whose sweetness is light years from the ethyl maltol caked sugar vats of many current launches), this perfume shares a bloodline with those fiery powerhouses of the 80s – Opium, Cinnibar and Fendi’s own Asja – by way of the mellow cedar fruits of Lutens. However while the fingerprint of those Lutensian spiced compotes can definitely be felt throughout Theorema, here it’s as if that leitmotif has been sketched on rice paper: hefty notes of spice and woods, of vanilla pods, fleshy florals and fruits are made diaphanous and wear like gossamer. Opening with a dusky orange bolstered by nutmeg, cardamom, pepper and rosewood and making it’s way through a floral heart – jasmine, rose, leathery osmanthus, ylang all freckled by cinnamon – to a sumptuously teaky base of benzoin, guaiac, sandalwood, amber and patchouli, this perfume is a stunning drape between disquiet and extreme comfort. Theorema is sunshine and earth: puffs of silk and fire.

The orange note, delectable and almost russet coloured, coupled with the chocolatey benzoin and patchouli makes for a much lauded mirage of confectionary. Specifically, for a time, it radiates a giddying apparition of Terry’s Chocolate Orange scooped out greedily from the woolly toe of a Christmas stocking. I must emphasise though that this is a very grown up version of a bonbon: there is no refined sugar here, nothing cloying in the least and it is instead toasty and cosseting, delicious and entirely of an adult palate.

The white florals in the heart, so often fleshy and lush, here take on an almost carnation like zing – the baseline of the spices buffs them with gauzy shades of chestnut and hazel, rich and piquant with their innate abundance peaking through as if glinting with caramel tones in lamplight. The rose, washed over by the milkiness of sandalwood seems baked by a late autumnal sun. Instead of buxom and bold petals, this is more a milky, spiced pomander of dried burgundy rose petals and cloves.

But while this perfume retains a lush and womanly aura, the woods and spices lend it a very slightly dirty (but not animalic) edge. There is a wonderful tension poised between delicate notes and heavy ones, a leathery laced and tangy hem that hints at secrets and misadventure. It is a perfume midway between the woolen snug of a cuddle and the sticky, sweet trace of nectarous booze on lips, a mingling of incense with gingerbread. It is all welcoming and warm smiles in that broad Italian way; confident and complex, restrained enough for elegance but hinting through fogged windows at delicious kinks. The sum total is sensuous and knowing, comfortable and self-assured but with a quite intoxicating hint of something more disarming: just underneath the coze and spiced panettone is a frisson, the whisper of cat-flick liner and a nightcap Gauloise.

Truly this is a beautiful, intelligent fragrance but despite all the virtues I’ve written about above, it flopped horribly. Its surprising lack of tenacity perhaps was a factor – a downside of the admirable transparency of the composition is that is does wear lightly (although the parfum – a true unicorn! – is richer and more unctuous as you’d expect.) But released as it was in 1998, it shared shelf space with the likes of Baby Doll, J’Adore and Rush and perhaps this auburn elixir was just too...

3 of 3 people found this helpful.



on 11/5/2011 1:45:00 PM

Age: 36-43

Skin: Other, Other, Not Sure

Hair: Other, Other, Other

Eyes: Other

Fendi starts off with a slightly cola-esque blast. I think that a lot of cinnamon in perfumes translates that way on my skin....the cola gives way to cocoa/orange/floral scent that while appealing, doesn't blow me away and has an almost fizzy quality to it still.
A half hour into it most of the fizz is gone and the light cocoa peeks its head out again. Cocoa is not in the notes so it's probably the woods and cream translating as such, but it's there nonetheless. This is my favorite phase of the scent.
Drydown on my skin is nothing to write home about...slight pale amber, slight peppercorn. If it were a scent that was still readily available I'd consider a purchase, but I wouldn't spend 100.00 on it. There are other similar fragrances (and better ones too) for that price.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.


Age: 25-29

Skin: Combination, Other, Not Sure

Hair: Brown, Other, Other

Eyes: Blue

I read reviews comparing Theorema to bug spray. I thought, what on earth! So today I get my sample. Orange and spice and everything nice, and yes, it does remind me of bug spray... Yesterday I used a bug spray on this huge black fly that flew into my house. The spray smelt actually quite good. I read on the can "New improved fragrance". Not bad I thought, for camouflaging toxic fumes. Anyway. This happens. Some perfumes and house hold items end up smelling the same. Before we know it, our car freshner smells of Dior's Poison, our toilet freshner smells of JPG Classique and the airport restrooms smell of Chanel Gardenia.
Nevertheless Theorema smells really good. I used to own a L'Occitane perfume Cannelle Orange. If somebody gave me Cannelle Orange and Theorema in two identical bottles to try, I would not be able to tell one apart from the other. All in all I think the strong orange, tangelo note makes it rather unsuitable for personal use, more like an ambiance spray perhaps.

6 of 6 people found this helpful.


on 12/10/2010 5:15:00 PM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Dry, Fair, Warm

Hair: Red, Wavy, Medium

Eyes: Blue

I read all of the positive reviews about this scent on MUA, but I was hesitant to purchase this scent because my best friend wears the original Fendi, and I find it to be a bit too aggressive and old fashioned for me.
I'm blown away by how much I adore this fragrance. I ordered the 5ml bottle of this scent to try out on ebay. It was only $8.25 with free shipping and an sample of Bulgari Blv, so I figured it was worth trying out. The only issue I had with this 5ml mini fragrance is I couldn't figure out how to remove the top at first. I was worried that I'd damage the packaging. A few strong wiggles and the cap is off. I'm so glad I tried Theorema! It's warm, slightly sweet, and so comforting. A juicy mandarin orange absorbs the smell of spicy, sweet chai. Delicious. This is my first time trying it, and I'm incredibly fickle with scents, I fly like a bee to pollen from one scent to the next, but this is really different. I can imagine myself wearing this throughout the winter. Theorema has the mood of fall and winter, so I can't imagine wearing this in the warmer months, but for now I'm absolutely smitten!

2 of 3 people found this helpful.


on 7/29/2010 1:32:00 PM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Combination, Fair, Cool

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Blue

LOVE THIS! So glad I took a chance and tried it. It's not weird to me at all, I get oranges, vanilla and a cedar or pepper accord. It's not too strong and I think it's wearable for daytime or evening. It wears fairly close, so nice with sweaters and on cool days. It's like a Dreamsicle for grown-ups!

1 of 1 people found this helpful.


Age: 30-35

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Blond, Other, Other

Eyes: Blue

You're sitting at a desk in a wood paneled library. With one hand, you're sharpening a bunch of pencils, with the other, you're eating a creamsicle. Someone set a chai latte on the desk, and its aromas are mingling with the scent of the huge chunk of amber sitting next to your elbow. It's Christmas, there is a roaring fire in the fireplace, and the room is strung with numerous orange pomanders that are studdded with cloves. That's Theorema! Actually, the sum of Theorema is far greater than its parts, and it always appears on every single one of my "Top Three Best Fragrances In The Universe" lists. This citrusy, Gourmand Oriental Masterpiece is a cold weather mainstay for me...apply it in the summer, and it turns into a perfume parka. My only gripe, which apparently is shared by many other reviewers, is its dismal lack of longevity. Theorema doesn't really have a drydown. One minute it's there, then "poof!" it's gone abruptly, like someone threw an off switch. Naturally, since it's gorgeous and everyone loves it, the House of Fendi in their infinite and farsighted wisdom, have discontinued it. If you can ever find this in the parfum extrait concentration, do consider selling one of your internal organs to obtain it. Yes, it is THAT good.

6 of 6 people found this helpful.


Age: 36-43

Skin: Combination, Fair, Not Sure

Hair: Blond, Curly, Medium

Eyes: Green

Why, oh why, is this discontinued? It is one of the best fragrances I have found. An oriental with a strong orange note that keep it balanced and delightfully warm.
This is a comfort scent and so well done, I don't know whether to hoard my last remaining drops or wear them with abandon and a smile.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.


on 12/7/2009 11:51:00 PM

Age: 25-29

Skin: Combination, Dark, Warm

Hair: Black, Kinky, Fine

Eyes: Brown

I am sooo very pleased with this purchase. My 'nose' is very new so I will not attempt to put into words the way the scent develops on me. I am fairly new to orientals and this one is a greater starter oriental. Not too heavy but definitely PRESENT.

The packaging is beautiful. You can find the scent through some online discounters in the $40 range.

The only reason I didn't rate it a 5 is bc it doesn't last all day on me. About 5-6 hours before I need to reapply. I've just decided that with this scent I will go through the trouble.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.


Age: 36-43

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Warm

Hair: Brunette, Straight, Medium

Eyes: Hazel

Theorema is really lovely and rich and gourmandesque and well worth trying. On me it begins as a candied, deep and spicy orange which is soon joined by chocolate of the frosting variety (It smells like Creamy Deluxe, honestly). It remains intensely bright and sweet for a while - the sillage is intense. As it dries down, the sweetness retreats a little and some interesting floral and incense notes emerge. I get some similarities to YSL Nu EDP at this point.The spices turn sultry and it becomes a great skinscent but even this stage does not last long. Theorema only lasts about an hour on my skin, a little longer on clothing. After this it is completely undetectable. It seems odd, how rapidly and thoroughly this vanishes, considering how intense it is at the beginning. It burns brightly and leaves nothing at all behind. It would be so much better if it faded away slowly with those lovely spicy basenotes lingering on. I was able to find a large, barely-used bottle through the local internet classifieds and bought it unsniffed based on all the glowing reviews here - I am pleased to have this for the upcoming holiday season, which I am sure it will be perfect for. A great discovery, my thanks to the prior reviewers for their experiences.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.


on 10/7/2009 6:22:00 PM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Neutral

Hair: Blond, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Brown

I gravitate towards warm, spicy, gourmand scents so when I read the notes in this I bought it unsnifffed and am very happy I did.


Top- tangerine, orange, eglantine rose
Heart- jasmine petals, red pepper, cinnamon, osmanthus
Base- cream, sandalwood, musk, amber, ground spice


There is a burst of creamy orange initially, but it does have a sparkling quality to it as someone mentioned. That fades quickly on my skin and the cinnamon and red pepper are predominate, which I'm very happy about. But finally that too mellows and I'm left with the creamy base, which is everything its described to be. It just makes me feel warm, spicy, and sexy...like I should be lying on a bear skin rug in front of a roaring fire wearing nothing but a heavy off white sweater and loggers boots. My only complaint is it doesn't last long. only a couple of hours then I can barely detect it. I still love it though and am so sorry its discontinued.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.


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