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on 4/19/2017 7:52:00 AM
More reviews by Afrocutie
Skin: Acne-prone, Dark, Not Sure
Hair: Black, Curly, Coarse
Years ago I tried the OCM and it really didn't work for me, the time and oil choice were problematic.Then last year I started reading about AB methods and one which I read pointed to an effective but gentle routine of a oil based 1st cleanse - to emulsify the sunscreen, makeup, sebum. Then a 2nd water based to cleanse the skin. So I set off on finding an emulsifying oil cleanser. I tried a few but I really wasn't in love with any. I already knew mineral oil didn't work for me unfortunately and that narrowed my choices somewhat. Then I read about making my own and as I like being a mixtress I bought a huge 500ml bottle (dont be like me, go smaller a lot smaller) of polysorbate80 from Amazon. Then set about trying out oils...first I started with Hemp Seed oil and it took me a while of finding my % sweetspot. With this oil it worked out as 15-20%, my skin liked this oil better than any commercial oil cleanser I have bought. But it is a finicky oil to store. I moved on to Grapeseed and jojoba oil, very drying, which surprised me. Jojoba on its own was a little better. Now I am using Almond Oil with approximately 20% polysorbate80. How I use it - PM, a fair amount into palm of hand, rub hands together and lightly massage over entire face and neck. Then I rinse my hands and use the water to emulsify the oil on my face, it turns milky at this stage. And proceed to rinse off. Sometimes I use a wash cloth to lightly exfoliate but not every night. Done.I like Almond well enough, I feel it cleanses my skin and doesn't dry it nor cause breakouts. It basically does what a cleanser should do. It is a basic cost effective oil. Infact I am able to just use this as my 1 stop makeup remover/sunscreen remover skin cleanser at night. My skin really doesn't need a 2nd water -based cleanse aftetwards, I used to use micellar water on a cotton round, mainly to check that I got everything off with the oil cleanse. It did every time. Stopping the 2nd cleanse just meant less dehydration.Now as polysorbate80 is really a solbuliser (hope I spelt that right?) It is when water is added that the emulsification wizardry happens. This also means the oil will separate from the polysorbate80 when left standing. So you have to remember to shake before each use. Not a problem but that is why there are emulsifiers in commercial oil cleansers to effectively mix both. Would I buy again? Most likely, however there are a few other solbulisers that I want to try, and I will prob try a sunflower oil as a base as well. It is washed down the drain, so I just want the best oil for the job. My skin type - combination to Oily (short Tzone) when dehydrated or irritated (can get dryness and flakes around mouth). Sensitive to a few ingredients. Clog prone.---------1 May 2018Now I have used up the hemp seed oil, I found I could use 10% polysorbate80 and 90% HSO. It cleansed my face beautifully and I didn't need a 2nd cleanser with this. Only the storage issues and it is difficult to travel with. I was meant to find some high linoleic sunflower oil but became distracted by pumpkin seed oil with its long shelf life. (12-14 months). I found I need more polysorbate80 (15%) to help emulsify with water and I need to second cleanse as well as I felt a residue with it. Hey ho. So different oils need different amounts of emulsifier to work on skin. I will always make my own oil cleanser, no ingredients my skin doesn't like and I can use a good amount to massage away sunscreen and makeup.
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