GUERLAIN Gourmand Coquin

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GUERLAIN Gourmand Coquin


2 reviews

0% would repurchase

Package Quality: 3.0

Price: $$$$

Package Quality: 3.0

Price: $$$$


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on 12/9/2009 11:49:00 AM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Other, Other, Not Sure

Hair: Other, Other, Other

Eyes: Other

(3.5 lippies)

Sometimes you get to the point where you have smelled so many fragrances that they all seem to blend together, or else one inevitably reminds you of another, leading you to think that the fragrance world is really very small. Or it could be a case of "once a great notion." Whatever, association often cannot be avoided, and this holds especially true for Gourmand Coquin, part of the Elixirs Charnels trio.

It's no surprise that Guerlain caught the loukhoum trend, albeit a bit later than the other major players (Lutens, Mecheri). Guerlain associated this trend with the "sugar and spice and everything nice" chronological stage in a woman's emotional and physical development. Therefore, one should anticipate an accumulation of the sweetest details, but composed with restraint and on a less voluptuous scale than is Guerlain's prima donna vanilla, Shalimar. Coquin is a whimsical, fun scent woven out of a virginal cloth. "Coquin" is a bit of a misnomer; there is little racy here unless one counts the shot of rum lacing the heart notes. I could make a case for it being mischievous, in the same way stealing a sugar cookie is mischievous if one is on a rigid adult diet.

Guerlain stakes out the familiar loukhoum territory with accords that are familiar from three other fragrances: Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum, IPdF Vaniglia del Madagascar, and Parfumerie Generale Musc Maori.
Coquin's introductory cherry fake-out (courtesy of a rum note) reminded me immediately of Mecheri Loukhoum. Chocolate and cherry made instantaneous appearances in Coquin, along with a strong drift of vanilla powder. From the start, it was clear that Coquin, like Loukhoum, was going to be a part-gourmand, part-cosmetic fragrance. The very prominent vanilla was at first talc-like with addition of rose, and later turned as doughy as the vanilla in IPdF Vaniglia del Madagascar.

Hours later, the vanilla became milky and scalded, a feature that marks Parfumerie Generale Musc Maori. Drydown moved from the slightly flat and doughy to the wax-like, leading to the inevitable resemblance to a high-quality candle. When the cocoa reappeared, as it should, at bedtime, the likeness to a candle ended.

Loukhoum scents can be a bit of a compositional hash. How they wear depends on which aspects are given the most weight. Where Mecheri's version was too sharply powdery (cosmetic) and linear for me, Gourmand Coquin continues to develop through what appears to be at least three stages. A greater spatial sense separates it from both the Lutens and Mecheri versions. The progression from gourmand through cosmetic and back to gourmand is interesting, if not thrilling. None of these scents has captured--and we might be thankful for this--the powdered sugar that coats the Turkish candy. In each case, the talc-like qualities of the vanilla are more evident.

Gourmand Coquin has exceptional lasting power. I applied it one afternoon and was still smelling it the next morning. It's not worth the money, in my opinion, but worth smelling for the way Guerlain continues to hold vanilla hostage. continued >>

14 of 16 people found this helpful.

on 9/11/2008 8:12:00 PM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Dry, Other, Not Sure

Hair: Brown, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

My first thought was, "Pink Sugar." I am still in a state of disbelief. Notes (per the Scented Salamander): black pepper, chocolate, rum, cacao, spice, rose, vanilla...Surely it doesn't smell like that. I would have to compare them closer together in time.

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