This is a scent that immediately evokes a color to me and a texture, it is misty grey silk with just a hint of velvet at the edges. It starts often with a clean medicinal note that immediately awakens the nose with quality a winter breeze has on a sunny day, yet as the fragrance begins to change it takes on the character of grey haze that you often see before sunset in fall around the mountains. It is a clean hazy scent that is both enveloping and crisp.
I'm going to admit it now, I rarely wear tropical scents, what can I say I rarely think I can pull off the sunny lushness that tropical scents often have going for them, and yet Datura Noir by Serge Lutens is one of the few tropical scents that I can. I suppose if I were to sum this scent up it for its character it would be "a gothic tropical scent, a moodscape of the icy arctic meeting falling petals of creamy luscious tropical flowers." This is the scent of a jungle at night with the coldest white full moon in the sky illuminating everything in its brilliant silver light. And yet this scent is softly narcotic there is no screeching gardenias or tuberoses, the tuberose in this is mellow and edged with a buzzing green note, the osmanthus is the more promenent floral giving off its gentle greeness with its hints of apricots soaked in cream, the coconut is subdued never reminding of sunscreen but rather the scent of freshly cracked coconut, and the hint of bitter almond through out giving it that hint of high pitched sweetness that is cold and wonderfuly sweet. Datura Noir is a soft scent yet has a sharp edge with its narcotic quality.
To put it simply Vivienne Westwood does not release scents that are easy on the nose, then again neither is the clothing that she designs. Up front Boudoir was unwearable for me, quite frankly it smelled like a woman's sex, and putting that on, well... Being female I really don't need too. Still I couldn't help but admire the audacity of her making a scent that very much had the scent of a woman's ladyparts running through it and all of its blatant glory. As for Libertine I can't say anything on it as I have never smelled it. But then Anglomania (and yes the name leaves much to be wanted) came out and I had the chance to try it and the chance to buy it at a ridiculously low price at TJ Maxx. It is a powdery rose, old fashioned, and by old fashioned I do not mean prim and proper, but the old fashioned scent of the 40's, 30's, and 20's which designed for women usually knock out modern men's fragrance in there sexual audacity and weight. For under the lovely powdery cardamom spiced rose is a hint of leather and a definite hint of skank and a nice bit of tobacco. The image that came to my mind was the incredible lush womanly dark Dita Von Teese who plays with bygone era glamour and sexual kink with a dash of theatrics and sense of humor. The scent is modern but the attitude behind Anglomania is nostalgic kink with humor.
The scent is pungent as is to be expected with tea rose scents, it has a hint of spice but overall tea rose scents have always smelled slightly lemony to me with a hint of airy notes. I consider them the original precursor to Calvin Klein's Eternity (which to me is a tea rose scent amped up with white flowers and ozone notes and all together headache inducing). This one luckly is not headache inducing. As the scent enters its middle stage in takes on an almost indolic quality (think there must be a little jasmine in this blend), it then drys down to a green musk laced with rose. The image that pops up into my head for this for a young wannabee hippie girl who doesn't want to wear patchouli oil but wants to wear some oil and so she chooses this. Just not a scent for me, although I do remember once mixing it with Egyptian musk oil and finding the combo quite nice.
Notes: Violet, Blue iris, Orris, Earth, Black hemlock, Galbanum, Pink pepper, Cinnamon, Cedar, Sandalwood, Incense, Wood balsam, Moss, Civet, Cashmere musk. On the website she says this is for both men and women and I can believe. I think there is some definite inspiration from Balmain's Jolie Madame in this, what it doesn't have is the sweet gardenia/violet banana middle or the leather/asthtray note in the dry down. The violets are subdued and other wise the woods and incense take over with the galbanum bringing that note of harsh green soapiness. This definately has a chypre quality running through it but a bizarre hint of creaminess (which i can only assume comes from the cashmere musk and sandalwood). This would be lovely on a man; of course my perfume dream is to smell Jolie Madame on a man. The earth note runs strongly through this and the cedar definitily has its moment. Overall this is a smoother more approachable version of Jolie Madame, but does not lose the qualities that make Jolie Madame unique and wanted by those discerning few. A lovely earthy violet scent. Now to find a man to wear it.
Fragrances -Estee Lauder - Azuree Soleil Skinscent Atomizer
Jenavira 8/3/2008 11:13:00 AM
Where to begin with Estee Lauder's Tom Ford Collection Azuree, a seasonal offering of makeup and fragrance, that was inspired to some degree from Estee Lauder's own Azuree collection. Well, I'm not going to start there, many have already done it and have written wonderful posts about the history that inspired Azuree Soleil, the fragrance of Tom Ford's collection. Rather I will say that Azuree Soleil inspires in many an image of the perfect coconut tropical scent in the most tasteful of ways, but my thoughts differ on its gourmand imagery, it is not a perfect glass of coconut water, but something all together more savory; Thai green curry. It should be noted I cannot wear most fragrances that go into near savoriness due to the fact that near savoriness is most often supported by cumin note and I am one of those people that when a cumin note is applied to the skin it is all bad. But then again Thai green curry is not the average curry it is made up of beautiful aromatics: kaffir lime leaf, lemongrass, ginger, basil, coconut cream, chili. These are scents that do not necessarily scream savory. When I first applied Azuree Soleil I was hit by a rush of spicy zest and woodiness, that reminded me a great deal of Origin's Ginger Essence (I suspect this opening is due to the citrus,woods, and vetiver mixing) and it also reminded me of some dish I had eaten. It took me a few days to realize that reminded me of Thai green curry. This image does not last through out the scent but at the very beginning, the scent goes through stage at one point a creamy gardenia coconut scent, then becoming a creamy floral caramel scent, but then the woods arrive again blending with the gardenia to make a wonderfully tropical yet earthy scent.
A little while ago I made a list of products featuring osmanthus, one of those was Tocca's Kyoto candle, well for while I had been carrying around gift cards for Sephora and I decided to see if they carried Tocca's Kyoto, I immediately bought up the candelina (which is bit on the expensive side) with the gift cards. Well I am here to say the raves for Tocca are correct, yes they are expensive, but the little candelina has amazing throw and lasts quite a while, but I admit I going through it fast because the scent is absolutely gorgeous. Tocca on it's blurb says Kyoto is inspired by osmanthus during autumn* at Japanese temples when they bloom. The scent is lovely and soothing, I would love to catch the scent of it on a breeze. Tocca's interpretation is heavy on the apricot note, supported by cream and aquatic background, in general I hate aquatic qualities, but this works perfectly. Imagine fragrant flowers plunged in icy cold water, the effect is soothing and refreshing, and never goes into fake sea breezes or calone zone. This is a perfect gift for an osmanthus lover and I highly recommend it.
Fragrances -Thymes Limited - Kimono Rose Eau de Parfum
Jenavira 4/29/2007 3:28:00 PM
Kimono Rose is the perfect spring scent for those of who love the rich berry liqour oriental scents of Escada Magnetism or Je T'aime by Des Filles A La Vanille. Kimono Rose begins with a lovely opening of roses, green peonies, and sweet night blooming jasmine, before it moves on to its heart of jammy cassis, which is supported by powder and dollop of jasmine and bit of clementine to keep the notes fresh and springlike. The packaging is gorgeous and for those of us with many fragrances the small roll-on bottle size is a godsend. This is a wonderfully romantic, clean, sweet scent for spring. The notes are: rose, peony, jasmine, clementine, cassis, and vanilla. The packaging is exquisite and I highly recommend the body products.
Bath Treatments -Thymes Limited - Kimono Rose Bath Salts
Jenavira 4/29/2007 3:21:00 PM
Bath Salts may be the hardest product to get right. They can be either too drying or not enough scent or they can be that dreaded combination. I am here to say the Kimono Rose bath salts are neither of those options, but is wonderful soak in the fresh fragrance of peonies, rose, and sharp refreshing green scent. It is wonderfully moisturizing and leaves your skin silky and lightly fragranced.
Gels/Soaps -Thymes Limited - Kimono Rose body wash
Jenavira 4/29/2007 3:13:00 PM
The Kimono Rose body wash really is quite nice and I mean that in the best of ways. It does not dry out the skin and leaves it soft with a light scent. It especially plays on the clementine and peony note of Kimono Rose and the packaging is truly A+. I highly recommend this product for those that enjoy the scent of Kimono Rose.
Lotions/ Creams -Thymes Limited - Kimono Rose Body Creme
Jenavira 4/29/2007 3:09:00 PM
I must say I am loving The Thymes Kimono Rose line, my friend recently gave me the gift set of body creme, body wash, bath salts, and the roll-on eau de parfum set. First of all the packaging is gorgeous and really does make the products feel like a special treat. But on to the product. The body creme plays on the scent of clementine, peony, and a very green rose of the scent of Kimono rose. The creme is wonderfully soft, absorbs quickly, and the biggest make or break for body cremes/lotions for me is that it does not leave a greasy residue. Highly recommend it.
Candles -Unlisted Brand - Slatkin and Co Elton John Fireside candle
Jenavira 4/18/2007 6:19:00 PM
My review is for the room fragrance oil. This scent is absolutely gorgeous, it is a smoky vanilla with hints of white pepper. I have never smelled another vanilla like it and often wish that this scent was released for body product. The oil has wonderful throw and scents perfectly.
I'm right now going through a bit of candle moment, but I can't help it, I keep on picking up really good ones, but this story begins with another candle entirely D.L. & Co's Loukhoum (you know the ridicuslously expensive candle company with gorgeous packaging), which in sheer joy I found on sale at Anthropology for $19.99 last December. Still I've been reluctent to burn that candle because it is gorgeous and apparently D.L. & Co. created it once and it then fell out of the companies history. But, I have found a rose scent that is nearly identitcal to Loukhoum, is consistantly in demand, and the best part so much cheaper. The differences between Loukhoum and Persian Rose: Persian Rose has spicy green bottom note where as Loukhoum retains a fluffy marshmallowy bottom. Now on to the inherent wonderfulness these both have; a mild almost lipsticky candied rose scent, that leaves your mouth bizarrely salivating. So utterly lovely. I highly recommend to rose lovers and those who fell in love with D.L & Co's Loukhoum. Unlike some Pacifica candles this one has great throw and really does fragrance a room and that was with my tiny little candle of it.
Fragrances -Bath and Body Works - ile de tahiti- Tiare flower eau de toilette
Jenavira 1/27/2007 1:56:00 PM
Well just when you thought it would never happen, a good non-expensive alternative to KM Osmanthus and Serge Luten's Datura Noir and it's from bath and body works. This is not exactly the same as those two, but it is definately the annoying little sister of those too. Really gorgeous and have to go buy it soon.
This is definately a sister of Sage's Pearl, yet once it warms up on the skin, it develops a wonderful bitter almond note. Later on it becomes a wonderfully creamy musk with hints of amber and sandalwood. One of my best buys in ages. Has a wonderful potency and surprisingly good sillage for a oil. At $7.99 you can't go wrong. So very lovely. And my bf immediately liked it. Absolutely wonderful.