Fragrances -Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Perfumes - Fleur de Comores
Gother 4/3/2013 3:28:00 AM
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier being a bit like the Bond n° 9 of Europe (it makes a lot of new fragrances every year and all are very different) Fleur des Comores belongs to the L'Invitation au Voyage collection. The main idea behind this fragrance is to portray vanilla in a different twist, taking out the bakery accent and replacing it with some white flowers/green notes freshness with ylang-ylang and wild jasmine. It comes out as a "nocturnal flower" fragrance, at the same time evoking faraway windy and wild beaches (Comores, in case you wonder, is a group of islands in the Indian Ocean, between Madagascar and Moçambique. Like the nearby nations, Comores thrive on the cultivation of vanilla beans and ylang ylang, which explains why they chose such and exotic name). The nose behind this fragrance is Jean-Paul Millet Lage, who works exclusively for MPG and also created masterpieces Bahiana and Jardin du Nil. Fleur des Comores was launched in 1988. My impressions are on the verge: it manages to smell fresh and natural for being a vanilla fragrance! I especially appreciate the breezey, almost salty note that tames the opulent white flowers. Also, I sense that the ingredients used are quality. The top notes from the opening are fruity from blackcurrant and passion fruit and green from vetyver and unrecognizable herbs.It later develops into something deeper, as the white flowers start to unfold mingled by vanilla beans. Yet, the salty-airy quality never gives up and this prevents the vanilla from the candy effect and keeps the fragrance grown up and elegant. Unfortunately, the lasting power is ridiculously short and also sillage is non existent, so I don't think I'd get full bottle of this.
Fragrances -Comptoir Sud Pacifique - Vanille Abricot
Gother 4/2/2013 9:24:00 AM
Vanille abricot is one of my all time favourites (especially for spring) and my favourite of all Comptoir fragrances (I own quite a bunch). It's a feisty fruity vanilla (who knew!) with brilliant notes of jackfruit and papaya, which make it a little bit more "citrusy". It smells like candy but never gets cloying. I recommend it.
I would define Gypsy Water as a fragrance for the fragrance shy, as it is very feeble, almost undetectable I'd say, and discreet. This alone makes it a very elegant fragrance, if only... I could smell it! Byredo house defines this as a Woody Aromatic fragrance for women and men (it's more masculine than feminine). Similar to a cologne, just a little bit deeper on the aromatic part and lighter on the citrus. As for the pyramid: top notes are bergamot, lemon, pepper and juniper; middle notes are incense, pine needles and orris root; base notes are amber, vanilla and sandalwood. What I definitely smell are the juniper berries, full and aromatic, and a distinct mic of incense and andalwood, which makes the most interesting part of it. The citrus, as I said, is present, but never overwhelming, not enough to define it a citrus scent. It's more like lemon leaves than lemon juice. OK, good, it's good, but the very short longevity of it (10 minutes?) makes me shun from getting the FB. I hope someone is luckier.
Fragrances -Unlisted Brand - Mona di Orio--Oiro edp
Gother 3/30/2013 4:15:00 AM
This is a magic irresistible fragrance that really manages to create the olfactory version of the color gold ("Oiro" is the Portuguese word for Gold). The prominent notes are green mandarin, sweet pea, spices, jasmine absolute, olibanum, heliotrope, vetiver, ylang-ylang, immortelle absolute, cedarwood, musk and amber. I love sweet pea: this delicate flower, which comes in various gradations from white to dark purple, was in my wedding bouquet and I can still remember the distinct smell of it. Sweet pea is distinctively present in this fragrance, too, but the leading role belongs to jasmine. It's a shiny jasmin that imparts light to the composition. Tart mandarin notes (although it smells more like an orange) and spices (cardamom and ginger) lift it up, while the basenotes are essentially sweet ylang-ylang and amber. Underneath the flowers lays the distinguished, almost "signature" Mona di Orio smoky effect that gives so much depth to all her fragrances. You definitely need to try it.
Patchouli & Rose = perfect marriage. I love my Hippie Rose, although I know it's nothing original: Frederic Malle Portrait of A Lady and L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses come to my mind. I love Hippie Rose for its elegant neatness and simplicity, the same I find in all compositions by Heeley; all of them are extremely clean, accurate and balanced in combining various notes. Do not expect the traditional smell of a red rose, zesty, sensual and Mediterranean: this is rather an English rose, pale pink, standing out against the backdrop of a green lawn in the morning, still wet with rain. It opens with bergamot, beautiful and bright as the sun, slowly rising, illuminating and warming the still vibrant mood of the night. Patchouli and rose blend in a delicate but solid mix of earthy flavours and honey, none prevails over the other; the sophisticated heart of the scent is then cooled slightly by incense, which makes it a unique elegance. The patchouli note underlines this flower as a fresh rose, enveloping, airy and with a slightly feminine side. The basenotes feature a discreet amber note, which gives the composition a mild acidity and a sweet and gentle animal note. I don't know much about the Hippie world. It really doesn't appeal me much. I'm not really attracted by the name, but the juice is really worth trying.
Fragrances -Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Perfumes - Secrete Datura
Gother 3/27/2013 1:39:00 PM
I love the datura note in fragrances (although I've never smelled the actual flower) and I cherish my Serge Lutens Datura Noir as much as I appreciate my favourite nose, Keiko Mecheri, and her own copycat... er, version of Datura Blanche. The composition is rather different, in that there isn't any coconut note in the Maitre version: the opening notes are lily-of-the-valley, Amalfi lemon and heliotrope (which I can't smell. It's supposed to give the fragrance a powdery vibe, but my nose totally misses it); middle notes are datura, jasmine, honeysuckle and african orange flower; base notes are sandalwood, iris, chocolate and vanilla. With that said, I find Secrete Datura to be the richest, most opulent, most interesting of the three. So much so, in fact, that I find it intimidating and just not me... Yes, I feel self conscious when I wear this (I only own a decant and I'm not going to buy the full bottle). I feel too insignificant, too short, too shy, too mousy faced to pull this off. In a sense, I feel unworthy. I imagine the man version of this, say the most manly man that I can think of: Denzel Washington. I try to imagine Denzel Washington eyeing at me with THAT gaze and that half smile and obviously wanting me, but all I can say is "No way, I can't bear the paragon, I can't have you, I'm too... nothing for you". Yes, the match would be so imperfect to start with, and I refuse to be the one who tries too hard with some stuff that is simply too much for her. Talking about confidence.
See is a very different fragrance from other Chloés and I suspect it was creating with the exact purpose of reaching a younger - probably more remunerative - public. The new fragrance, signed by perfumer Michel Almairac is defined by Chloé as chic, elegant and energetic floral - fruity. The composition opens with fresh notes of bergamot and apple blossom, which is very different from the fruit. The heart is a floral mx of jasmine and ylang-ylang and the base is predominant, featuring some synthetic vanilla and musk with additional sandalwood accords. It reminds me of some blast from the past, maybe one of those "perfumed deodorants" that looked so cool in the Eighties. I'm sure it will be a success among teenagers because it has so many reminiscences of childhood, but it doesn't conquer me. As for the bottle, which supposedly was inspired by a vintage bird cage, well that makes me ever sadder...
Fragrances -L'Artisan Fragrances - La Chasse aux Papillons
Gother 3/27/2013 4:00:00 AM
This fragrance, created by Anne Flipo in 1999, has got the most evocative and beautiful name of all fragrance: La Chasse aux Papillons, Chasing Butterflies. It's fun to guess how a butterfly should smell like, but to me, this fragrance that I've worn for five years smells exactly like a butterfly. Truth is, it does smell like a blooming, sultry white flowers garden under the spring sun. Not much else, but white flowers alone can work wonders. First comes the heady, almost boisterous prima donna, Tuberose, immediately followed by a cheerful Orange blossom and a less prominent Lime blossom for a citrus slight, slightest punch. Then Jasmine starts to grow and occupy the scene with a tender, hearty, not indolic at all presence. Linden blossom underlines the whole plot adding a cool and mysterious touch of greenness, but not too much. To me, La Chasse is a close to perfect fragrance. It's the perfect rendition of a sunny day. I would have upped the Lime note because the fragrance can smell cloying at times, so it's worth wearing at low doses and maybe try some layering.
I can't believe I've owned this fragrance for more than one year and haven't written a review yet. I <3 NY ranks #1 in my personal crazy rotation of about 20 fragrances, which says a lot! I LOVE NEW YORK is a series of 7 Bonds wearing the uber famous logo on their bottles and being addressed to a bigger crowd, as their price tag is slightly lower than traditional Bonds. For Her, in a bright pink bottle, is quintessentially what people typically call "a pastry gourmand", which is predictable from the notes list of vanilla, blueberry, caramel and nutmeg. And blueberry muffin with a delicious vanilla frosting is what you get at first sniff. It makes me think of a busy spring New York morning with opening cafés and street vendors. The opening notes of mandarin zest, spicy nutmeg, and the special blueberry muffin accord are followed by a bouquet of roses and pink peonies, while the drydown is led by patchouli, musk, sugary vanilla bourbon, sandalwood, and a soft leather accord. All these notes seem crazy on the menu, but the final recipe smells incredible and equally versatile for day and night. Somsay it smells of Angel... it does, but only in the opening notes. Then it gets way better than that!
Un jour d'été was launched in 2012 as part of Keiko Mecheri's collection of Colognes (the ones that come in transparent bottles with a white cap). But it's not properly a cologne: it features bergamot, jasmine, coconut, ambergris and deep woodsy notes that make it unique and a little masculine, too. At first smell, it's very close to Bond n° 9 Coney Island in the Margarita note: the lime and coconut note manage to give that effect, underlined by a very tropical coconut base (not vanilla-coconut, I mean the raw, fresh coconut with milk and all). Unlike Coney Island, it doesn't have the watery note of melon, which is perfect for me, because melon note always lends a touch of rotten fruit to my nose and that's exactly why I never got along with Coney Island. In case you're reading this in the month of April because you're already searching for a "beach scent" without considering that we're still 2 months ahead of summer: yes, it is a bit beachy, thanks to the coconut and a definite (although undeclared) monoi note. The jasmine is crucial here in adding a white flower feminity, or it would be an exquisitely masculine scent due to the heavy presence of woods. The "masculine" face is lent by Ambergris, with its perfect, welcome salty wafts. The drydown is very, very woody and some of you may start screaming "Man's cologne! Man's Aftershave!". Personally, I'm OK with that and I'm planning to try some layering experiments, because this fragrance is really FB worthy.
Fragrances -Frederic Malle - Angeliques sous la Pluie
Gother 3/26/2013 7:11:00 AM
This is my olfactive rendition of the colour green: sage green, to be exact. In this fragrance, nose Jean Claude Ellena managed to build the image of Angelica stems made wet by a warm morning rain. There's an interesting frame of spices built around the flower: pink pepper and coriander, plus the interesting and slightly sharp addition of juniper berries, which gives the impression of a spring garden. The overall effect is wet, wet, wet, and it verges on the masculine side a bit, but in an innocent, unoffensive way. The musky base is very solid and tames all the spices down. I think that the best interpretation of angelica so far is Annick Goutal's Vanille Exquise, where it plays such a spectacular, fundamental supporting actor to Vanilla to the point that it steals the scene at times. This one comes close second.
This is one of the Heeley fragrances that come in the form of Extrait, together with Agarwood and Bubblegum Chic. The name might be misleading, as L'Amanidère is not exactly a pedestrian almond scent in the sense that we generally expect (think Montale's Amandes orientales) and it's nothing like the sweet marzipan effect of Etro Heliotrope. Almond does appear in this fragrance, but in the form of blossoms and unripe fruits, mingled in a fresh and light bouquet of spring foliage. The most outstanding note is the Linden: so outstanding, in fact, that at first smell I was immediately reminded of L'Artisan's L'été en douce. I almost see myself lying on a grassy meadow in Southern France, looking up and seeing the clear blue sky through the rich foliage of linden trees moved by a mild warm wind. Where is the almond? It's there and it's everywhere, but it's not the toasted, crispy oily almond you'd expect. It's rather a drupe, the peach-like green fruit that holds the precious almond seed inside. It's still surrounded by almond blossoms that smell the way of a half concrete, half fairy Van Gogh painting. And it's not alone, as it's surrounded by a bouquet of spring tender flowers: violets, jasmin (indolic presence here to balance the airy quality of the tender flowers), hyacinth, rose and bellflowers (the bellflower is prominent to my nose: it reminds me of Penhaligon's Bluebell without the sharp metallic effect). I like the sleek black bottle of Heeley Extraits, although I prefer the transparent ones from Heeley's.
Eau Duelle, AKA a "vanilla for grown ups", manages to stand up from the innumerable crowd of vanilla fragrances thanks to a spicy-musky-resiny combination that delivers something quite unique: besides a concrete, sweet but not sugary bourbon vanilla as a top note, I can smell spices, namely cardamom, pink pepper, juniper and saffron; then come a bunch of resins to give it substantiality: elemi, olibanum, ambergris... and a squeeze of bergamot, plus black tea, to add some sharpness and prevent the baker's shop effect. The musky base adds warmth and skinlike effect. It's a nice and pleasant fragrance, but it somewhat lacks some personality. It's the kind of fragrance one would wear at a Sunday function, or at a job interview. It would be lovely as a scent for my favourite body lotion, but I go for something wilder when I have to chose a fragrance. So, even if I agree in calling this a "grown up vanilla", I'd leave it for the younger girls (in fact, there's also a slight bubble gum and candy impression in the overall effect).
I'm always wowed by this colour. Not that I use it much, because it's really bold, but I certainly find it sexy and elegant at the same time. Plus, I believe that Rouge Coco lipsticks are the best in terms of colourconsistency, staying power and no-bleed (when you look for a bold colour like this, make very sure it doesn't bleed!).
Fragrances -Unlisted Brand - The Different Company - Oriental Lounge
Gother 3/25/2013 1:00:00 PM
I had high expectations for this fragrance, but all I got was Johnson's Baby powder. Yes, it's delicious and comforting, and, like all TDC fragrances, incredibly discreet (maybe too much), but I was disappointed as I was expecting something richer, sultrier and spicier than your typical amber-vanilla-spices mix. Also, as I first smelled it I was immediately transported 19 years back, into the car of a friend I used to hang out with: yes, it was the exact smell of his car freshener and I instantly smiled at the memory: I had completely forgotten about it and, all of a sudden, I even remembered some clothes I used to wear and my lipgloss and of course all my complicated world of dreams and expectations of a 21 year old... Not that I care to go back at that time. Not that I care to smell like my friend's car. Not that I care for this fragrance, honestly...