Guerlain • L'Heure Bleue • Fragrances
|Would buy this product again.||65%|
Age: 19-24 Skin: Combination, Fair Hair: Brown Eyes: Hazel
This is dreamy, very definitely Paris at dusk. I try to think of something more original to compare it to, but there is nothing else. The first time I put it on I said "I feel like I'm living in the most beautiful dream". I have heard the vintage formula is better which I can believe as this one is very powdery & has room to be more complex, but I love it anyway. It's the perfect scent for softness... not necessarily romance, I think Shalimar is more invigorating and reminiscent of lovers, but it is for love of life, love of Paris, love of flowers, love of ballet... it's for loving love, not just love alone.
Age: 44-55 Skin: Normal, Fair Hair: Red Eyes: Green
I appreciate this from a historical point of view but it doesn't seem very suitable either for work or romance. Perhaps for relaxation. It is certainly an interesting scent but just doesn't thrill me the way gourmands do.
Age: 44-55 Skin: Combination, Olive Hair: Brunette Eyes: Brown
Modern extrait, three stars. I arguably think modern. Caron Farnesiana does it better.
Vintage, pre 1972 LHB eau de cologne, 4 stars.
Fragrance notes listed in variety of reviews on line consist of some combination of the following: neroli and/or orange blossom, heliotrope, iris, incense, carnation, vanilla, coumarin, anise. Some accords include sandalwood. This is considered a floral oriental.
A dab of the modern extrait is plush, spicy, strong, with an immediate sensation of citric heliotrope vanilla iris powder. It starts out sharp and spicy, then mellows into a somewhat recognizable gourmandish smokey guerlain dry down with almond. I don't get any strong tinge of anise, but I think that is because my nose is overwhelmed by powder and benzoin. The amber warmth is sweet; therefore, to my mind, this is not 'dark' in the sense of Caron oriental darkness in vintage Nuit de Noel extrait or Parfum Sacre extrait (now discontinued). I also don't get a sense of much wood. I have not tried the vintage extrait which supposedly has an animalic edge plus sandalwood meant to balance the incense anise vanilla iris powdery qualities. I don't sense any animalic quality to the modern extrait, but now I'm wondering if I could layer this with a tiny dab of MKK or khiels original musc. If I could magically age my modern extrait by 30-40 years, perhaps it would more closely approximate the mellow lush quality of the vintage EdC. Since I cannot do so, for modern Guerlain extraits, I prefer Mitsouko, Chamade and perhaps even Nahema.
LHB vintage EdC is very different and lacks the aggressive powder note. The EdC is a tiny bit medicinal in the opening, but quickly morphs into something soft and aldehydic. (IMO guerlain aldehydes are softer and easier to wear than Chanel aldehydes). I notice carnation, clove, orris and sandalwood very quickly, and I am pleased that I can sense the different notes. Anise gives it a little lift, but it's not intrusive. In the dry down, I get a sense of incense, but it's neither chokingly heavy, nor lightweight. The composition has roundness and depth and weight. The florals don't jump forward, and I don't get the sense of generic gourmandish amber, styrax, benzoin, coumarin sweetness that characterizes many modern fragrances. I find the vintage EdC, which has no doubt oxidized and mellowed, to be the easier to wear, and therefore more modern fragrance. If you think FM Eau d'hiver is unisex, I see no reason why this could not also be considered suitable for either gender, especially in the vintage EdC.
Note: I am an under applier and prefer to dab, not spray. Especially with vintage Guerlain and Caron, I believe dabbing minimizes powderiness. I also intensely dislike silage and prefer the more intimate skin scent quality of extrait.
Age: 36-43 Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium Hair: Brunette Eyes: Hazel
For the longest time I wondered what I was wearing that smelled so different than what people were describing. For instance, to me this is a chypre, not unlike the foundation of Mitsouko, and when I finally read someone else make the comparison, I was relieved that my nose wasn't alone. Also, I was delighted when someone else mentioned the root beer drydown. Haven't noticed it as much with L'Heure Bleue, but Mitsouko has a horehound candy/sarsaparilla drydown that I found pronounced, and oddly habit forming. I also am a bit blown away by the overwhelming top notes, and my boyfriend backed away and wondered why I'd put so much on, but in half an hour, it fades to a very faintly spicy, faintly vanilla/powder chypre with floral notes. It's like hearing a neighbor's emo music on a windy day, you just catch tantalizing impressions of various tones. I'll note the anise, then a deep floral, and under it all, that sophisticated chypre. This one has really grown on me. It's also warming me to Mitsouko more, which was not love at first sniff.
Age: 36-43 Skin: Combination, Medium, Warm Hair: Brown, Wavy, Medium Eyes: Hazel
A classic scent. I waited years to try this. I was afraid it was going to be like her younger Sister Mitsouko. Not at all. First spray is this strong powdery scent that dries down to a nice incense type perfume to me. It's a clean powdery scent. I don't get baby powder. Nothing meloncholy about this scent. It's beautiful. Transports me to a simpler time. So much better than all of the fruity florals that clog the market today
Age: 56 & Over Skin: Normal Hair: Blond Eyes: Green
Comforting scent...I do not find it melancholy at all...the dry down on me is like baby powder...smooth, silky, soft, and intoxicating. I love the snugginess of it!
Age: 36-43 Skin: Acne-prone Hair: Brunette Eyes: Blue
I adore L'Heure Bleue. I should preface by saying that I am a huge fan of Guerlain fragrances and Samsara is my signature scent. L'Heure Bleue is a fragrance that reminds of a bygone era. An era of elegance, class and aristocracy. When I first spray it the aniseed top note is overwhelming and I don't care for it at all. However, when the scent dries down on my skin (after about 30 minutes or so), it is the most wonderfully soft, powdery fragrance and I smell the iris, carnation and violet most. I find the classic scents so refreshing in today's modern world where sickly sweet fragrances seem to run amok. I have always enjoyed wearing a fragrance that does not make me smell like everyone else.
Age: Unknown Skin: Acne-prone, Fair, Warm Hair: Brunette, Straight, Medium Eyes: Brown
I have to give L'Heure Bleue a neutral rating of 3 because even though I don't like it, I do find it fascinating... truly a perfume from another era. My main impression is one of powder: fine, dry, and coating with Dust Bowl like sweep. It's hard for me to tease out the other notes from this enormous expanse of powder but I do get a suggestion of chewy flour, a hint of vanilla, and some spice. While it is almost totally unreadable to me, there is something very compelling about LHB. I would recommend trying it for sure. Even if you hate it, it's worth smelling such an iconic perfume.
EDIT 12/16/2013: Had to change my rating to a 4 because LHB has grown on me and I went out and bought a bottle. I can smell floral touches and more spice where as before it was all powder. I still find it strange but wonderfully so. I had a sample of the EdP but bought the EdT which is lighter/less potent and maybe a tad sweeter.
Age: 36-43 Skin: Combination Hair: Brown Eyes: Hazel
Very powdery, unmistakably a ton of violet and iris going on. It smells like the color periwinkle dusted with baby powder. But although it's powderier and sweeter than I usually go for, I don't have the urge to scrub it, and I'm starting to detect it doing something deeper and more magical as it dries down. Also, something under there reminds me of leather even though that's not in the notes.
The final drydown: root beer. In a classy way. Excellent staying power--lingered at least 12 hours. But I don't get the melancholy or amazeballs everyone else talks about, and am unlikely to wear it much. I do view it as a well-blended and historically interesting scent, though, and might occasionally dab it on in the spring.
Age: 19-24 Skin: Sensitive, Fair Hair: Brunette, Straight, Fine Eyes: Brown
Well, it's time I reviewed this perfume. I've been contemplating reviewing this for some time now (I've been enjoying this perfume for a few months now) and I felt like I needed to let it percolate before I reviewed it. I felt like this perfume deserved it.
This perfume was first formulated by Jacques Guerlain in 1912, and so I knew when I purchased it that I was going to experience a pivotal moment in the history of perfumes. Everything about it intrigued me. I imagined it as the quintessential fragrance of Belle Epoque era Paris, so it was formidable and irresistable to me at the same time. That's the thing about it, the beauty of this fragrance is not an easy thing to approach. There's something bittersweet about it too.
The perfume opens very spicy and almost medicinal, like cloves, to me at first. But almost instantly, something sweet and creamy softens it and blends that into a fragrance that is altogether dreamy and skin-like. It is alternately light, like a chiffon gown, and heavy too, like an Edwardian dressing table draped in velvet. It calls to mind a lady who wears a corset and puts her hair up, but also applies rouge to her cheeks in a carefree way and lowers her dress so her shoulders gleam in the twilight of a Paris evening.
The difficulty of the fragrance is this- it does smell like 1912. This is both a good and a bittersweet thing. People comment that this smells like old lady, that it is stuffy and old-fashioned. Well, I would actually agree with you! It does smell like a relic of the period. There is no light citrus in this, or uplifting beachy-ness about it (not that there's anything wrong with that!) This DOES smell like your great-grandma's perfume, because in 1912 she was a vibrant, glamorous young thing.
I love that about it, though. This smells like an era we can never go back to, only in our dreams. This is an over-ripe concoction that is the essence of the end of the Belle Epoque, the turning point in the years leading up to WWI, which changed the world irrevocably in terms of worldview, and then, aesthetics. This perfume captures the essence of the time in which women still wore corsets and there were still horse-drawn carriages, but also in which people were first enjoying the automobile and women like Lady Sybil were cutting their hair and daring to wear dark lipsticks and even trousers, heaven forbid.
So, I guess what I'm trying to say, is that this perfume is beautiful but is both timeless and dramatically dated. No new perfumes nowadays are blended like this. No, this is a piece of history. That's why, while I love this, it makes me FEEL things and one of those things is melancholy. So, I don't reach for this often. But there's also a reason that it stands on my dresser, always visible and cherished.