Guerlain • Chamade (Extrait) • Fragrances
|Would buy this product again.||75%|
Age: 25-29 Skin: Dry, Fair, Warm Hair: Brown, Straight, Fine Eyes: Blue
I think I may have found a fragrance I love to the extent that my love for this outdoes all the others I've tried. Up to this point, thought I'd never find a Guerlain that worked perfectly for me. I love their scents, but I find them a bit stuffy, refined, or out of place in my life to wear at times. Shalimar was my high school go-to and is loaded with memories, emotions, most of them good.
When I first smelled this, it gave me an extreme sense of deja-vu. The galbanum in the opening with a slight dash of citrus brought back the austere Cristalle I wore in college. It begs you, "try me." There is a sense of this not budging, not backing down. It tempts you to try and mess with it-- it's sticking around awhile. She seems a cunning temptress, a fiery strawberry blonde with a ready smile.
Sometime later you notice this edge is gone. It's melted away, becomes purely creamy, and yes, slightly oily, when the pressed flowers come in. The jasmine is full-bodied and langorous, indulgent, the rose accents its lushness, an old-fashioned lilac sings harmony in a supporting role. It does remind you of so many times, so many women, so much love. Before this becomes dirty, however, or skanky/animalic, the soapiness comes out and powders up those little florals and asks them to pretty themselves up and behave!
The drydown is positively gourmand, an edible amber that is almost too rich. I found this vintage sample of the parfum to actually warrant (dare I speak such alacrity) a reformulation; I am looking forward to testing the new parfum. From my first testing, I do hope I'm right in my belief... but will have to wait and try the new one. In the drydown, the melting Amber and honey which is so just downright sloppily head-over-heels, naked, barefoot and all-out lost in complete abandonment to love, is verily pregnant with desire and its offspring. Can it be calmed down a bit and still be as beautiful? I'm not sure... only time and further sniffing will tell.
I wouldn't mind a little toning down of that ambery drydown (so I say now), and some amping up of the vanilla. Will post later once I try the newer reformulated parfum.
Overall however, this is perfect-- I don't think there could be a more beautiful perfume in my eyes.
OK- the modern parfum. I love it even more. The opening is much more 'wow' than the vintage I tried, the shift from spicy galbanum to a powdery explosion of hyacinth recalls a bee stirring pollen up in a frenzy of summery joy. It is positively gleeful. The creaminess of ylang starts in, with a little dry, sweet rose and a faint vanilla without booze. A very sheer, powdery vanilla that just serves to deepen the hyacinth-ylang. These mid-notes are so deep and to die for... this is an altogether different animal from the vintage, because the exciting explosion of pollen after galbanum, and the creaminess of the ylang in the middle is missing this unending depth in the vintage I have. This was an exciting discovery to be sure. The heart has been currently given this joyous, plentiful, neverending-youthful spring green flower which blossoms into a creamy yielding of pollen to be enjoyed. The emphasis on the current formulation is in the mid-notes, not the base. It is unbelievably beautiful.
After the galbanum stage in the vintage, it becomes powdery hyacinth-lilac-rose, then soapy-green floral, then sweet amber-sandalwood.
In the modern parfum I sense a spicier galbanum, green floral, then creamy hyacinth floral-ylang with a little vanilla (which is very deep and rich), in the base more hyacinth with a trail of spicy galbanum underscored with vanilla. The drydown is a bit of spice with nothing heavy, and no super-sweet, woody amber.
If anything, the vintage is about a final surrender from the dance-- the bee goes back to his hive and makes honey... this bee is one that just keeps going... and dreams of flying from flower to flower all night.
The base of the vintage which has been so exalted, is a very sweet ambery, glorious Mysore sandalwood, and you know from just the smell it's probably gone. So deep and rich and heavy. Somehow, the lighter, newer version to me sings more on the skin because it is fresher: the depth of the mid-notes are played out and the base is just a wisp of a faint Chanel-like accord. I LOVE the current incarnation, dare I say even more than the vintage on me because deep woods just don't smell as good as florals on my skin.
This new parfum has no amber in the base to my nose but a whisper of leftover spicy galbanum-hyacinth, a memory of pollen laced with a tiny smudge of vanilla.
Age: 25-29 Skin: Combination, Olive, Neutral Hair: Blond, Wavy, Fine Eyes: Blue
i'll start by noting that i have a vintage bottle (1967) is the date marked on it's original box. i think it is so incredibly beautiful. the blackcurrant isn't really detectable in it like it was in the modern edt i have from dillards. this it strong and elegant. hours after putting just a dab on my neck i still catch wiffs of it. and as i'm not into smelling like fruit i love the powder and spice in this. i don't wear it everyday only for special evenings because it is vintage and i don't know if i'll ever find it again (prior to reformulation which i don't care for) for such a bargain. it you can get your hands on it it's a must try (mine came from beverly hill perfumery).
Age: 30-35 Skin: Acne-prone, Fair-Medium, Cool Hair: Red, Wavy, Medium Eyes: Green
Chamade extrait is a powdery woody rosy chypre to my nose-did I just make up a category? I feel it's similar to Jil Sander No 4 but with more powder. Think refined ladies and you've got it. In any case, it's quite nice and sophisticated, lasts a good long while (of course it's parfum!). It doesn't knock my socks off as anything terribly earth-shattering, but on the right person I'm sure it could be stellar. It's a bit on the too-powdery side for me but once upon a time, I would have just gone ape-Sh@t over this.
Age: Unknown Skin: Other Hair: Other Eyes: Other
Stunning. Woody, loamy vanilla with a bit of currant. Just a couple dabs on my skin is all it takes to make me feel sophisticated. I HAD to have a bottle of it and now I do, albeit ultra small. Thanks Diane for introducing me to this gem. This one for sure, I shall repurchase in the future.