Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque


115 reviews

66% would repurchase

Package Quality: 4.1

Price: $$$$

Package Quality: 4.1

Price: $$$$


on 1/19/2015 11:23:00 PM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Olive, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

Fumerie Turque used to be one of my favorite fragrances. I wore it more often years ago and I cannot recall why exactly I stopped. I haven't really gone back because orientals haven't been my category of choice for some time now. I have the older version. I should add that if I could smell the type of FT that Necrobella describes in her review below, I would give it five stars also. Notes as per Now Smell This NST blog site include rum, honey, currants, jasmine, rose, sweet tobacco, Peru balsam, tonka/coumarin, styrax/benzoin, tonka/ coumarin, smokey leather, Cade oil (smokey leathery notes, or a kind of birch tar effect).

The trio of Tonka, Peru Balsam and styrax/benzoin, all contribute a resinous vanilla cinnamon sweetness. One of these three ingredients also produces a camphorous effect, but I forget which one. With the honey and currants and sweet tobacco, it becomes throat scratchingly sweet and powdery (think powderiness levels of modern Shalimar -- not vintage Shalimar EdC -- or modern LHB (of course no anise, orris or spicy carnation). Incidentally, I also get the same level of powder rush from my bottle of Habanita EdT, which is confessedly, the most powdery version - the 29 usd spray in the square bottle. A reviewer below noted that she smelt some chocolate. I assume that is from the interplay of the vanillin resin and the patchouli, but unfortunately the powderiness kind of makes me anosmic to patchouli or other ingredients. Oddly, it's almost as if the opening emphasizes the powdery base and after a while it becomes slightly more floral and slightly less powdery, but perhaps that is just wishful thinking.

Sometimes I modify FT with Ambre Sultan which introduces amber, but is less sweet, or with MKK to reinforce the animalic. (But then I think I end up with something that wishes it were Lagerfeld for men vintage -- not the bottle labelled classic). Or with (I confess in a whisper) with Ungaro Diva (a honeyed amber rose that miraculously isn't gourmand sweet but has backbone and structure). I remember layering it with tea Rose, but I don't remember if I got much rose from it. Maybe if I had an ingredient that subbed for more Cade oil or birch tar. I think I read somewhere that the site Perfumer's apprentice contains something called leather accord which some people apparently use on its own.

My next experiments will be to layer FT with a citrus (my inspiration basically stems from my reading in a review somewhere that Shalimar was conceived when Jicky was overdosed with synthetic adulterated Vanillin, the same as that used in the Mousse de Saxe base made famous by Caron.

My smokey tobacco fix today is taken care of by either Lys Epona, a Jovoy, Paris first edition exclusive (the lily and ravenssara/nutmeg give a distinct floral sweetness to lys) or original vintage Tabac Blond which is decidedly not sweet, is leathery, and supposedly contains no tobacco.

So basically FT gets three stars out based on my personal nostalgiac usage, but I am not sure it deserves them today if I feel the need to modify it so much. I am not affiliated with any of the sites I mentioned, BTW.

Note: serge lutens apparently provides layering suggestions for his perfumes. The combo that seems to work well this winter is layering Jeau de peaux with Ambre Sultan (my universal mixer) to get a cross between Etro Heliotrope and Caron Farnesiana.

on 12/22/2012 11:52:00 AM

Age: 19-24

Skin: Oily, Fair, Cool

Hair: Blond, Straight, Medium

Eyes: Hazel

On the fence with this one. Very strong and masculine at first but dries down to a smooth almost spicy chocolate smell, atleast on me! But it isn't very strong on dry down, so its not worth the price, and there are better SL fragrances.

on 7/12/2012 7:37:00 PM

Age: 36-43

Skin: Sensitive, Fair, Warm

Hair: Blond, Wavy, Medium

Eyes: Blue

I think Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque is simply superb, and I consider it one of my most precious fragrances. Let me state for the record, I am female and I happily wear this masculine scent. I especially enjoy it in warmer months, outdoors and at the beach where the scent can truly blossom. This one takes time to develop so don’t be off put by the initial blast of tar pit if it discourages you. I was looking for a smoky oriental gourmand scent (as always) and a very helpful SA kept trying to get me to try FT and I kept thinking “ugh, why does he want me to try that gross smelling stuff?” but he insisted and 30 minutes in it mellowed into an intimidating yet sultry tobacco, leather, jasmine, vanilla and rose… the most beautiful rose. Clever SA, turns out he was spot on with what I wanted. This perfume conjures so many images for me I can’t narrow it down to just one: the scent of vintage black velvet, a swarthy young man wearing an old leather coat breaking down his drum kit at three in the morning at a club after a show in 1997 (I married him, BTW), and if the cult classic "Vampyros Lesbos" directed by Jess Franco had a scent, this would be it. The movie was filmed in Turkey after all. I also loved the old Luckyscent description about nibbling on Turkish Delight in a leather paneled room (or it was something like that). Excellent sillage and lasting power which I find is typical of Lutens, the scent of FT practically drips from your skin in Summer and lingers provocatively in Winter.

4 out of 4 people found this review helpful.

on 5/14/2012 6:18:00 AM

Age: 56 & Over

Skin: Normal, Fair, Warm

Hair: Brunette, Wavy, Fine

Eyes: Brown

A beautiful smokey spicey oriental, with a kick of my beloved unwashed patchouli; becomes richly decadent, clingy, and sweet on the body...its supposedly unisex...well I certainly would want to get into the pants of a bloke smelling like this!
Lutens fragrances truly represent a high water mark in modern perfumery. I hope he lives to a hundred and ten (SL being a decade + on me ) and I have lost my love of perfume before I shuffle off my mortal coil if he stops before I do !!!

on 2/25/2012 5:39:00 PM

Age: 56 & Over

Skin: Dry, Fair-Medium, Warm

Hair: Other, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Hazel

Fumerie Turque immediately reminded me of Shalimar in being a bright incensy oriental. I get the honeyed tobacco, a bit of ash, not sure if I actually get leather. But I do get some kind of fruit, possibly orange, apricot, and several dried fruits. I also get a hint of coconut at times, which could make for a mysterious perfume on a summer's evening. Alas, the ash comes up a bit too much for me in the later drydown. Fumerie Turque might work better on men, though some women do love to wear it.

on 11/22/2011 10:55:00 PM

Age: 25-29

Skin: Sensitive, Tan, Warm

Hair: Black, Curly, Medium

Eyes: Black

Love at first sniff! Sweet tobacco, raisins, and honey against a backdrop of smokey leather. Strong sillage, but not as strong as its similar sister Chergui. Smelling Fumerie Turque compared to Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille makes TV smell like a cheap department store fragrance. If you love the smell of excellent, high quality tobacco, you won't go wrong with Fumerie Turque.

on 10/11/2011 2:22:00 AM

Age: 25-29

Skin: Dry, Medium, Warm

Hair: Brown, Other, Medium

Eyes: Brown

I'm surprised at how heated the discussion can get about Fumerie Turque, but I bought it on sale without having smelt it beforehand...

When I first gave it a sniff I was a bit disappointed, as the various adjectives and descriptions people have given it were quite seductive. At first it made my wrist smell like an incense candle (which I don't mind!), and it has since mellowed on my skin to a sweeter musky smell with a hint of smoke. I think with too much on it could be very overpowering. A light spritz or dab will probably have me sniffing myself all day. :)

One thing I didn't like was the packaging. I have the 50 mL EDP which supposedly is a spray bottle... not a nozzle in sight! I'll just have to pour it into an atomiser and farewell that lovely bottle.

All in all it's alluring, smoky and sweet with a bit of an edge. A little pricy but I'm sure the bottle will last.

1 out of 1 people found this review helpful.

on 10/9/2011 12:57:00 AM

Age: 25-29

Skin: Sensitive, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Red, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Hazel

Fumerie Turque was mad love from the first sniff. It's perfect distilled sweet, resinous sticky tobacco, somewhere right between shisha and high quality pipe tobacco. It's lightly spiced and flavored with rum raisins and date resin, and it's gloriously effervescent, and just slightly smoky, like the smell of a pipe that's been used long in the past. It's transcendent in its enormous quality. It's positively mouthwatering, and it gets noticed.

Serge Lutens seems to make fragrances that don't really convey a character. They're atmospheric. Most of the fragrances I love are classics that call to mind a certain type of personality or mood. Fumerie Turque is simply an experience. I adore it, and with its high quality, perfect sillage and long wear, it's worth every penny to me.

6 out of 6 people found this review helpful.

on 8/24/2011 11:07:00 AM

Age: 36-43

Skin: Oily, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brown, Other, Other

Eyes: Green

Bewitching smoke of a late-night lounge. Smoke and old timber, a little sweetness. Sheer enough to wear on hot summer nights. More dressed-up than Chergui (which is more about hay than tobacco). More relaxed and modern than Habanita. Medium sillage, very good longevity.

1 out of 1 people found this review helpful.

on 7/14/2011 10:27:00 PM

Age: 19-24

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

This was love at first scent. From the other reviews I have been seeing a lot of 'cigarette, artsy, dark, punk' but this gave me a very different experience. As an Aussie girl who grew up near the bush, this brings back fond childhood memories of lazy summer weekends when there would be backburning taking place. I got memories of cool autumn weather with the sun hanging low and the smoky haze hanging in the air. It makes me miss home, and I get the feeling that Lutens has these kind of experiences in mind when he creates his perfumes. I want to wear it all the time but I feel like I don't quite have the guts to pull it off. It's such a beautiful scent though....all I want is a bell shaped jar on my vanity...

1 out of 1 people found this review helpful.

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