Cartier Must de Cartier

4.1

77 reviews

74% would repurchase

Package Quality: 3.7

Price: $$$

Package Quality: 3.7

Price: $$$

INGREDIENTS



on 1/31/2015 9:49:00 AM

Age: 25-29

Skin: Acne-prone, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Blond, Curly, Medium

Eyes: Green

Sniffing Must makes me hang my head in shame; how come I've tested 1000+ fragrances during the last years and skipped this opulent oriental wonder?!
I mean, looking at the notes was like:
- Galbanum? Meh.
- Leather? No, thank you.
- Civet? Neeext!

At last I was gifted a vial carrying some deep amber/cognac liquid labeled as ''Must de Cartier'' which was no less than the vintage parfum. Oh dear, my whole collection now pales in comparison.

The first thing I noticed was the galbanum which can be shaped in many forms and this one comes close to the kind found in Safari by Ralph Lauren. Here is mixed with some heady woody spiciness which apparently comes from the rosewood + carnation + tonka which reads as cinnamon bark. I don't get much of the sparkling green notes but that's probably due to the parfum formulation. Then it gets warmer, smoother, sweeter as the amber and vanilla come forth and mix with the previous notes which are always present.

So what about the animalic elements that scared me in theory? Well, I can say that I get no skunk whatsoever, only warmth and the impression that it smells not like just as a mix of notes but like a living creature with flesh and bones. Almost feels like being hugged by a friendly furry bear(!)

The galbanum provides some chypre-like elegance wrapped in warm oriental opulence; I've never come across a similar concept and find it very clever.
Could imagine Must worn by a person with undeniable well deserved authority which also possesses genuine inviting warmth and kindness. Old world spell right there in a bottle.

After reading Patrick Süskind's book I have wondered several times what the magical perfume which was the outcome of several murders would smell like; it certainly wouldn't be a gourmand/ aquatic/ sporty/ mere floral.
But it could have very well been Must.

3 out of 3 people found this review helpful.



on 12/4/2014 4:54:00 AM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Combination, Fair, Warm

Hair: Brown, Relaxed, Fine

Eyes: Other

Okay, before i start i must say that apparently there are several versions with different colors of caps on the bottle and I personally don't know how they are different but want to specify that i have this bottle which is the newest packaging-so they say... (http://www.cartier.com/collections/fragrances/womens-fragrances/must-de-cartier/69817440-must-de-cartier-eau-de-toilette). As i already said, I have no idea how other ones smell but will gladly share my personal impression and hopefully some of you will find it helpful!

What brought me to this scent: I am a huge fan and lover of Calvin Klein's Sheer Obsession which is nowhere to be found these days. And when i was desperately searching for a scent with similar notes, I came across several comments that these two are somewhat similar (although the majority agress that Must resembles the classical Obsession more). Well, to my subjective nose:), this comes as close as it gets to sheer obsession on my skin even though there are only 2 or 3 notes that oficially match. Perhaps it is how my skin works with it but on me this is definitely more of sheer obsession and not the classical one. Again, i want to note that they are quite difference, i still find sheer obsession more subtle and therefore more to my personal liking; however, since i can't get a hold of the latter, this one perfectly does the job for me of reminding me of sheer obsession's aura.

The biggest difference between the two is a strong green note in the beginning of Must which for a few first minutes can have an impression of a man's cologne; however, once you move past it, it settles into a warm, woody and very feminine scent.Comfortable to wear, long-lasting and cosy; however, to be honest, it lacks the wow factor for me except for being very nostalgic for having reminded me of sheer obsession. Still, i am happy to own it and wear it with pleasure.


on 8/12/2013 10:23:00 AM

Age: 56 & Over

Skin: Normal, Fair, Cool

Hair: Brunette, Straight, Medium

Eyes: Brown

If I were paying a perfumer to make my own personal scent, this perfume comes closest to how it would turn out -- my own personal "me" perfume -- the one with my name on it.

It's Cartier's Must de Cartier EDT (as pictured), with the burgundy cap and amber glass oval bottle. This, for me, has all the right notes -- evokes all the best feelings -- feels like it was tailor-made for me -- and it's the only bottle that I keep a backup of in my closet. I also have 2 minis of the pure perfume, and I love to dab these also.

Warning: there is a Must de Cartier II with a gold cap and clear glass bottle w/ corners, and it's an entirely different scent -- and not good at all IMHO. I was once sent this one by mistake by an etailer and sent it back.

Much as I love gourmands, soft florals, and skin-musky scents -- the dark, rich, comforting Fall/Winter woody-oriental category is a big favorite -- esp those containing a noticeable vanilla note (my favorite note) -- and Must de Cartier EDT would have to be my alltime favorite perfume within that category

The notes, per Fragrantica.com are : "Top notes are aldehydes, pineapple, green mandarin, galbanum, peach, bergamot, brazilian rosewood and lemon; middle notes are carnation, leather, yellow narcissus, musk, orchid, orris root, jasmine, vetiver, neroli, ylang-ylang and rose; base notes are amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, vetiver and civet."

It's hard to tell from that bizarre note list, but this is a rich, deep, mature, sophisticated oriental. I love Fall/Winter & the Christmas season, and it reminds me of Christmas shops, Christmas candles, and ski lodges. It's cozy, wintery, spicy-woodsy-resiny-vanilla deliciousness. It's in the same general fragrance family as Obsession & Samsara.

When I first found it, years ago, I couldn't stop wearing it and went through half of a 3.4oz bottle before I finally slowed down. I read in a magazine, yrs ago, that Melanie Griffith wore it, at the time anyway (daughter of Tippi Hedren and wife of Antonio Banderas).

2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.


Age: 19-24

Skin: Acne-prone, Fair, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Other

Ugh, I cannot express in words how much I adore this scent! It's womanly, mature and strong, without smelling like something your grandmother would wear. It's sweet, yet not floral at all. It can be overpowering, though, you just have to be careful on the amount you put on. Other than that, I have no complains! Trust me, you will not regret buying this perfume EVER. I will be repurchasing again and again and again.


on 1/6/2013 12:26:00 PM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

Two lippies for nostalgia value; that's it. LOVE the comment below about this being Regine's in the 70's. Completely spot-on. The juice itself is like a bad dupe of Obsession (or vice versa, but who cares?). It's a very generic citrusy musk a la spawn of Shalimar. And, yes, it does smell like hair pomade. While there are a gazillion perfumes out there that are completely of their time (YSL Rive Gauche, Paris, Givenchy III just to name a few), the *good* ones transcend that period and are able to live on their own merit 50 years later. Not Must de Cartier. It remains a very thin, generic smell reminiscent of many body sprays out there in its harsh muskiness. A *must smell* only as reference; preferably while reading Bonfire of the Vanities.


on 12/17/2012 9:19:00 PM

Age: 19-24

Skin: Combination, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Red, Wavy, Medium

Eyes: Green

The version I am reviewing is the EDT. Upon first spray, it smells, as others have mentioned, like a mixture of Opium and Obsession, and a very yummy mixture at that. After half an hour of wear, the spices fade out, and it's very much more reminiscent of Obsession, but a lighter, softer version of Obsession (at least in EDP form, which I have). It's very nice, but so similar to Obsession that I can't imagine needing both.


on 3/16/2011 3:30:00 AM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Sensitive, Fair-Medium, Cool

Hair: Red, Other, Other

Eyes: Green

I only wear two scents, and I have been using Must de Cartier EDT the longest. It is complex, mysterious and reacts quite differently with each woman's chemistry. I feel as if it were made just for me.
(Note that the EDP is quite different from the EDT.)

2 out of 3 people found this review helpful.


on 12/7/2010 6:40:00 AM

Age: 30-35

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Red, Other, Other

Eyes: Hazel

One glorious fragrance that I intend to use all my life. What got me in the first instance was the overall sensation rather than individual notes; and if I had to choose a metaphor for it, it would either be copper or bronze, that dim shine of materials from the bosom of the earth. It is a fragrance that cools when I think it's on the verge of heating up and vice versa. This is the touch of softest, cooling silk on warm skin, the contrasting and complementing lilac, purple and brown in an unexpected way.

The opening is cold and aldehydic, ever so slightly alcohol-laden and masculine but there is nothing to bother me. A sheer lavender and light carnation pop up and there are cool, lush, wet garden notes - though I wouldn't call it necessarily green. Here, everything happens beneath the magical, hazy tulle of a light spicy oriental afternoon sunshine of a fragrance. The heart is soft, round and truly present with clean and velvety flower notes; jasmine -usually not a favourite of mine- is also clean here. Hot and cold, hot and cold in a syncopated beat, Must dries down to a soft and slightly dark base that conveys the warmth of luxury notes. (It often makes me think of Dune with the similar hot and cold thing.) Beyond the genre of luxury fragrances that give an automatic sense of money or sophistication, there is also something in it that makes me think of Alene Lee (Mardou Fox in Kerouac's Subterraneans) - a woman both so close and familiar, and so separate and unbounded.

6 out of 7 people found this review helpful.


on 8/15/2010 4:23:00 PM

Age: 56 & Over

Skin: Normal, Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brown, Wavy, Medium

Eyes: Blue

One of the best Fragance in the world.
In Paris, France, people like it very much .


on 8/8/2010 11:31:00 AM

Age: 44-55

Skin: Dry, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Brown, Curly, Coarse

Eyes: Brown

I've just recently rediscovered this beautiful fragrance. I wore it from time to time in the 80's but it was never my signature scent. I always felt it was a bit too ladylike and heavy for me back then.
After a few lifestyle changes this year my body chemistry changed and my old favorites didn't smell so good on me anymore. I started to look for replacements, and although some of the fragrances I couldn't wear before still smell terrible on me (Shalimar, why do you hate me?), some now actually smell wonderful. Must de Cartier is one of them.
Gone is the heavy feeling and instead it's turned into a soft oriental, very feminine and non-intrusive with a wonderful warmth to it. I just love it. I won't go into notes except to say that on me it doesn't smell masculine or pomade-like at all.
I used to think it had similiarities to Obsession, but a quick test for comparison the other day made me realize how plastic-y and thin Obession is nowadays. Youth Dew is another fragrance which conveys a bit of the same feeling as Must, but Youth Dew is unfortunately a stinker on me these days, although I still love it on others.
I have Must in EdT and a summer edition from a decade back, Eau Légère, which is also delightful. I've never tried the pure parfum, but I hope I will be able to some day.

4 out of 4 people found this review helpful.


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