Serge Lutens • Jeux de Peau • Fragrances
|Would buy this product again.||50%|
Age: 44-55 Skin: Combination, Olive Hair: Brunette Eyes: Brown
Edited review: I am not a gourmand perfume lover.
I have always waffled about buying L'Artisan tea for Two, the issue being that I thought it had that odd note of sweet in it that I associate with vintage Rochas Femme. Then, I discovered TfT was discontinued, and in a slight panic, I tried JdP.
I now wish JdP was closer evocation of Tea for Two which I retested to find TfT is deliciously tannic, smokey, leathery, spicy. Not as sweet as I recall. JdP is MUCH sweeter. I have taken to layering JdP with ambre sultan. The combo ends up on my skin as something between Etro Heliotrope and Caron Farnesiana.
I thought that JdP would evoke a cosy mood, a suggestion of afternoon tea on a snowy day, without being over the top sugary; I fell in love with a small decant and immediately purchased a full 50 ml bottle. The problem for me is JdP opens with an artificial movie theater popcorn accord that is almost kettle corn sweet and morphs into a block of ambered immortelle. It's essential to dab, not spray, in order to minimize the popcorn note and the possibility of headaches. I may also try to downplay the kettle corn with a dab of I something less sweet, but us am not sure what, perhaps Encre Noire. . .
Afer two-three hours, JdP does dry down to something less sweet that is very pleasant. At the end of a day of wearing this, when I have washed my hands repeatedly (I dab one wrist), the far dry down is good. I also must keep in mind the fact that recent purchases of vintage fragrances may also have made my expectations of modern fragrances unrealistic given IFRA or EU limitations. I might also just be a bit tired of lutens and in need of a temporary break from the lutens line up.
If you want a lutens fragrance without the exotic spices, incense, tobacco, honeyed fruit - a distinct departure from fumerie Turque, Chegui, MKK, ambre Sultan, bois et fruits, Feminitie du Bois (actually I have the original sheseido lutens FdB); and Boxeuses; if you don't want a floral; and, you like sweet gourmands, JdP may be perfect for you.
Age: 25-29 Skin: Acne-prone, Fair, Neutral Hair: Blond, Curly, Medium Eyes: Green
I was very eager to smell Jeux de Peau lately to the point that I almost blind bought a bottle. I mean, sandalwood, licorice and immortelle are among my favourite notes, can also get along with the rest pretty well in most cases and it's supposed to capture the smell of a bakery? Bring it on!
At last I swapped for a decant and I wouldn't have been disappointed if it was a blind buy in the first place.
The opening seems to be much fruitier than I expected, the combination of apricot and osmanthus gives a fresh, vibrant effect and although it took me by surprise I really like it!
During the heart I expected freshly baked croissants but I get buttery cookies filled with apricot jam instead, which is still delicious of course. I don't get bread either, Bois Farine has much more prominent yeasty notes and it's more modest in sweetness.
The drydown is less gourmand, all about silky smooth creamy sandalwood - still on the sweet side - and admittedly the Lutens sandalwoods are well made. The drydown here is similar to the one of Santal Blanc but Jeux de Peau is more multilayered overall. It's often compared to Santal Majuscule as well but I don't agree; the later is far drier and the cocoa powder makes it quite bittersweet.
Projection is minimal and longevity doesn't seem to pass the 4 hours mark. Beacuse of that I'm not sure if I'll end up investing on a full bottle but for the time being I'm glad to own a decant of the delightfully quirky Jeux de Peau.
Age: 25-29 Skin: Very Dry, Dark, Warm Hair: Black, Kinky, Fine Eyes: Black
This perfume evokes a bakery. It smells like toasted warm bread, milk & butter. Really beautiful, spicy & sweet. Unfortunately i thought it was way too sweet, & too evocative of bread & butter to work for me! If the smell of toasted butter bread, sweet creamy milk sounds good then get this! I really started liking the perfume at the final drydown when that baked bread smell started disapearing & the creamy woody sandalwood & amber took over.
Age: Unknown Skin: Normal, Fair, Cool Hair: Brunette, Straight, Medium Eyes: Brown
I have 5 Serge Lutens fragrances, and Jeux de Peau is my 2nd favorite, behind Chergui. Actually, they're almost tied for first place, of my SLs. The other 3 full bottles I have are Un Bois Vanille, Fille en Anguilles, and Feminite du Bois -- also nice, but not nearly as beloved as my Chergui & Jeux de Peau.
Jeux de Peau smells to me like the Greek dessert baklava. It has a buttery note, a pastry note, a sweet syrupy note, and a nutty note, like either walnut or hazelnut -- all the ingredients you find in baklava pastry.
Here are the notes, per parfumo.net:
Top Notes: Citrus notes, Milky note, Wheat, Barley
Heart Notes: Coconut, Licorice, Immortelle, Blossoms, Apricot, Cinnamon, Clove
Base Notes: Osmanthus, Apricot, Spices, Sandalwood, Woody notes, Amber
Jeux de Peau was intended to smell like a pastry shop, and to me, it does. It's delicious! You have to spritz just a tiny bit, because like pastry, it's very rich & sweet -- buttery & syrupy -- so use just a little bit -- and mmm, mmm, you'll want to take a bite out of your arm. I'm drooling, just thinking about it.
Age: 56 & Over Skin: Combination Hair: Blond Eyes: Brown
If you don't want to smell like everyone else, Jeux de Peau is a great way to go. So delicious and comforting and original. Doesn't smell too gourmand--actually very refined--more of a skin scent--my favorite fragrance!
Age: 30-35 Skin: Combination, Fair, Neutral Hair: Brunette, Curly, Medium Eyes: Brown
Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau is a fragrance with three personalities. It's meant to evoke a bakery, but of course, being a Lutens, I knew before testing it would not be straight up foodie. The opening notes fooled me, though. They are buttery and not exactly breadlike, as advertised, but more of a croissant. I had mixed feelings about the top notes because they were quite unique but a bit too much like food for my taste. However you feel about them, though, they fade very fast. The middle notes are that signature Lutens stewed fruit/cinnamon/cedar accord that is in every single fragrance in the Bois series, and a few that aren't. I like the accord but I have to say, I'd like to see them do something a bit different to show more of a range. It is weird coupled with the croissant note, to be sure. The third personality shows up farther into the drydown when the signature Lutens accord fades to an unfortunate Ambrox (or something like it). I hate Ambrox. It feels "scratchy" to my nose and as soon as it appears it just seems to quash everything else. So suffice to say, I do not love Jeux de Peau. Lutens will have to get a bit more out of the box to impress me.
Age: 56 & Over Skin: Combination, Fair Hair: Blond Eyes: Hazel
I like the way that Lutens reversed Guerlain's romanticized view of the oriental, and made it more realistic. The Lutens Oriental seems like something you'd hop down to the souq and pick up. Despite this appreciation for the realism of the Lutens Oriental, my favorite from the Lutens range is Jeux de Peau, one of the most thoroughly French fumes in the Lutens range. Dab on Jeux de Peau and you step into Mr. Luten's childhood bakery, complete with wooden floors and shelves scenting it. When I initially saw that milk was one of the top notes in this fragrance I resisted it. More often than not, milk in a fragrance smells like something sour and wretched. In Luten's hands, the milk blends beautifully with the apricot of the osmanthus and the maple of the immortalle. Rounding all of this out is sandalwood, licorice, and spices.
This is a truly a French gourmand. It evokes the realism of a French bread shop in the same way that the original 2009 Guerlain Le Petite Robe Noir humorously evokes rows of perfect little fruit tartlettes.
Jeux de Peau is on the opposite end of the gourmand spectrum from L'Heure Bleue or PdN's Maharanih. They or more abstract. Yes, you may get a bit of Italian candy in LHB or an Italian cookie in Maharanih, but you do not get the experience of a realistic environment. I love them all, and am glad to have both abstract and realistic choices.
Age: 30-35 Skin: Combination, Fair Hair: Brunette Eyes: Hazel
OH MY GOD. I am in love with this scent. In fact, it may become my new signature scent.
I read so many reviews that I didn't know what to expect, and I was so excited to try out my sample when I received it today. Immediately after application I could smell the warm, buttery scent that I've read so much about. I never got the very sweet sticky buns scent or strong caramelized sugar smell. It was smooth, lightly sweet, and buttery from the beginning. The underlying sandalwood keeps the buttery sweet scent from smelling too literal, so it smells like a proper but interesting perfume and not like sniffing a buttered baguette or buttered popcorn.
The buttery scent lightens and this dries down to a nice sandalwood fragrance with slight buttery sweetness in the background.
I will definitely be ordering a full bottle of this!
Age: 36-43 Skin: Combination, Fair, Cool Hair: Blond, Wavy, Coarse Eyes: Green
No, no, no, no.. this is not good on me.
I love SL but this one's a big miss.
All I can smell is buttered caramelized popcorn, a note I really dislike and therefor I can't appreciate any of the other notes in it.
This one reminds me a lot of BPAL's Shill, a popcorn scent and I actually canlt smells nothing more than that. It smells cheap, a bit off.
The so- called "bread note" is not subtle and I can't imagine why anyone would want to smell nutty and greasy.
Maybe it's a ph thing and lucky for me there are plenty other SL to love.
Age: 25-29 Skin: Very Dry, Fair Hair: Red Eyes: Blue
This is my favourite Lutens. I think someone else described it as grown-up gourmand and I think that's perfect. On me I get apricot, licorice, celery, lots of immortelle, smoke, a kind of pastry scent, and a patchouli-ish drydown. Although syrupy, cozy and warm overall, I don't find it as sweet and cloying as other Lutens fragrances (I'm find the vanilla in Un Bois Vanille far too sweet).
It's not exactly linear, just different parts of the composition dominate at different times... they flow in and out of the scent as a whole.
I don't get any real yeast bread notes, for which I'm glad. Not a fan of the real smell of fresh bread dough.
Absolutely love it.