Amouage • Memoir Woman Eau de Parfum • Fragrances
|Would buy this product again.||20%|
Age: 36-43 Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium Hair: Brunette Eyes: Hazel
I was fortunate enough to visit the Middle East once, and I got to actually go down a street where spices are sold in a bunch of hot little glassed-in shops in which curries are presented in great layered pyramids and sold by the artful slice, which is then tumbled in a melange into a baggie. Everyone there sprays their robes with rosewater; I brought some home just to be able to summon the memory.
While the two Amouage scents that I have, Memoir and Interlude Woman, donít exactly smell like that street, they are very recognizably of that world.
Memoir is an overwhelmingly rich deep and fruity smell to me, along with some deep non-sweet cumin notes, reminding me of the tannins in a raisiny beaujolais. Iím never actually sure I like it. But it really reminds me of very dense things; dried cherries, a fruitcake soaked in port, sangria, walking into a Bahrain carpet shop walled and floored in a madness of crimson Persian rugs, pomegranate juice, a small house jammed with red roses, a wealthy and hedonistic man sitting in the leather seats of a brand new Jaguar.
It is also screamingly exotic; once on the skin it blossoms into something darkly floral Iíd like to think of as jasmine, but it is the smell of the tropical nations of my experience, walking past someoneís walled garden; scents like this are not native to the cooler climates. This is walking down a market street in Nicaragua, pungent with smoke and overripe fruit, incense emanating from the massive Catholic basilicas.
It has a funky reek in there, too, also consistent with nations in which horses still draw wagons down the street.
I tend to sneer a bit at overly florid descriptions of scents (...an enchanted pool high in the mountains of Atlantis where unicorns lay their jasmine-crowned manes in the laps of opium-smoking virgins, etcÖ) but then I find myself doing the same thing, so here goes.
This evokes imagery to me of walking down a fantastically old cobblestone street under a soft crescent moon past breeze-stirred blossoming trees as wizened women turn kebabs on tiny braziers in front of massive Medieval churches and kerosene-lit rickety open-air taverns are noisy with sweaty men drinking a potent local fruit wine.
Iíll be back with the base notes after shopping.
Okay, two hours later. This is now pretty close to my skin, although still pretty forward considering that it was one small spray from a 5 ml vial. Itís still got the dry spices but itís currently just gorgeous. Itís got what I think of as amber.
So to wax absurdly poetic, it now evokes a late afternoon in that same city, when the streets are quiet and beginning to cool, the dust is settling and the light is thick and gold and shadows are long and the few people about are desultory. This is the smell that emanates from the shops that sell the things adventurous foreigners have been buying there since the age of Marco Polo. Sweet and warm and tad bit dusty. It doesnít smell of honey, but I see honey in my mind when I smell it.
Some of the darkness and fruitiness is gone, it has less of the sensibility of a British Christmas pudding.
This is said to be a chypre. I donít know enough about chypres to comment, other than to say, I had imagined oak moss to be a shade more pungent than this. Maybe that was what sharpened the top notes, but right now, this is all incense without the smoke, almost gourmand.
This is actually a lot better than I expected.
I think the key is going very, very lightly, which is good, because at the price, one wants to think it will last.
Age: 36-43 Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium Hair: Red Eyes: Hazel
Memory of an unplanned encounter with someone wearing a leather jacket, and you are remembering it the next day with a bowl of coco pops on your lap.
Memoir goes straight to base notes on me. I don't get the chypre structure or tangerine in the top notes. It's leather for me with a bit of coco powder. This is a well-groomed, rounded leather hinting at a tannery but without taking any risks. It is not animalic, pungent or dirty on my skin. It is a scrubbed, thoroughly cleaned representation of a tannery somehow deprived of the complex and perhaps inviting olfactory journey dirty leathers offer. With a tad of chocolaty something, perhaps coco pwder. Next to bad girls like Cabochard, Azuree, Parfum d'Elle and Knize Ten, all of which come at a fraction of the price, this is a dog that barks but doesn't bite. I like Memoir, it's probably my second favourite fragrance of the house after innocent, clean aldehydic Dia but I am not in love with it. 3.5
Age: 44-55 Skin: Dry Hair: Brown Eyes: Brown
Rather average smelling for the price. At first, the fruit blew me away. When that calmed down, I thought I smelled coffee, and it was very good. However, now it's onto the sweetness. Coffee with fruit syrup? Unless this really plays up the animalic notes in the drydown, this will stay a solid "3".
Age: Unknown Skin: Other Hair: Other Eyes: Other
Sprayed both the Men and Women on a few hours before going to bed. Women to me is very syrupy boiled sweet (hard candy) like. There may be some leather in there - it's amongst its notes - but I can hardly smell it. The boiled sweet smells like things I'd eaten when I was little, maybe a combo of oranges and berries and some passion fruits? To me it reminds me of Cuir Venenum 03 by Parfumerie Generale which also reminds lots of people of candies and sweets and also have leather.
As usual it is very long lasting, around a day later I can still smell it on my wrist... the dry down is a bit of musk, a bit of vanilla, and a bit of plum overtones.
The Men's one is a lot of dry austere woods. Vetiver... a lot of it... dryer than Sycomore. Not smoky though. Lovely Absinth, Wormwood, Basil... etc. The dry down next day is very boring nondescript men frag. Because the fragrance is so dense and each stage lasts so long, I think how it smells the day after doesn't really matter. If I have the money I will go get a bottle of this.
3 stars for Woman, 4 stars for Men
Age: 30-35 Skin: Other Hair: Other Eyes: Other
My mua name was inspired by the 80s show Designing Women (Suzanne's nemesis was Helen Van Patterson Patton), and this fragrance reminds me of an episode where Suzanne talks to an au pair hired to accompany the women and their loves in order to help with the kids--and whose mere presence is disruptive to everyone. She's just too much, and Suzanne feels like she can have a heart to heart and tell her so, because as she says, "I'm too much, too." When the au pair (Ursala) says she doesn't understand, Suzanne informs her that her smile is too big, her heart is to big, and well, her breasts are too big. This fragrance is like Ursala to me. It's too big--too much sweet, too much leather, too much of everything. It's like syrup and leather and aldehydes and...well a whole lot of stuff that I find overwhelming. I don't know who Memoir would work for, but if it's you then you're definitely more of a woman than I.