Serge Lutens • Tubéreuse Criminelle • Fragrances
|Would buy this product again.||62%|
Age: 44-55 Skin: Combination, Olive Hair: Brunette Eyes: Brown
I used to wear a lot of tuberose about ten years ago. I should have bought tuberose criminelle then because I assuredly would have whipped through a bottle by now. I was more a (frederic malle carnal flower and fracas vintage.
The reason to buy TC is the tiger balm opening, a floral with a twist. The dry down into a tuberose that is warm, nutty and less green than carnal flower happens in less than 15 minutes, too quickly, on my skin. My 50 ml bottle is bought this year 2014; it's possible that the original TC had a more challenging, lengthy camphorous/mentholated opening. Spraying would amplify the opening notes, but causes too much perfume to be dispensed; I am a dabber, prefer extrait, and dislike silage. I would never spray any tuberose fragrance.
If you like the high contrast opening, but want something other than TC, I suggest an entirely different floral : lys epona, an exclusive to jovoy Paris, that combines lys with a horse leather accord. The reason why is the contrast between the lily and the horse leather (or tobacco or whatever it is) is extreme and jarring -- what I imagined the original TC to be. In lys Epona, you can almost see the two disparate accords flowing side by side. I don't think other serge lutens florals are as high contrast, for example, I like a la nuit , but consider it a more conventionally feminine, overpowering and slightly synthetic big jasmine). Off topic, I wish lutens or another niche perfumer would release a gardenia with a blue cheese ammoniac note ( I like the gorgeous Caramelized gardenia une voix noire, but I have a craving for Joel rosenthals JAR gardenia, currently not in the fragrance budget).
Back to tuberose. Here is a tuberose comparison (though tuberose is not my favored accord and I am therefore not as familiar with it as other accords):
Tuberose criminelle: described as mentholated; I don't get the rubbery qualities - I wish I did. I think it's a warm fuzzy lutens dry down. Clearly a lutens type fragrance.
Carnal flower: described as green, camphorous, bright, it's coolness almost gives it a touch of metallic sweetness and almost powderiness in the far dry down. I almost think something about it has some similarity to chamade extrait (not similar accords but perhaps in the way mostly pollinated can verge into almost powdery?). If possible, this should be dabbed IMO. The bottles make that difficult.
Killian beyond love: I only have a sample, beachy salty, easy, therefore modern. Coconut.
Jardin de Bagatelle; aldehydic lightness in a definitive "I am a light floral perfume" for a tuberose, slight vetiver dry down that I would have missed had I not been reading the note pyramid. (I would emphasize the vetiver, sandalwood base by layering a dab of JdB with something wood, unsweetened amber, or vetiver. I only have EdT, perhaps EdP is richer in the base notes. Not a characteristic guerlain IMO.
Fracas: buttery tuberose, not as overpowering when dabbed in very tiny quantities, surprisingly close to the skin in the dry down. For a vintage fragrance, not indolic or urinous or powdery on my skin.
Age: 56 & Over Skin: Very Dry, Fair, Warm Hair: Brunette, Relaxed, Fine Eyes: Green
There must be a university, somewhere, where the course Tubereuse Criminelle is being held.
The discussions, the arguments pro and con, the life experiences ~ all leading to 'The' verdict.
As a student of fragrances, albeit a non professional one, I can scream YES, this is The One ...
The initial 'blast' is akin to entering a wind tunnel ~ and then the cloud that envelopes you to the point of stupor.
To wear this scent one must be able to say ~ I just don't give a damn. And then, I really don't give a damn.
There exists no middle ground, no neutral territory.
Some luxuries are simply a necessity ,,,
Age: 44-55 Skin: Dry, Fair Hair: Red Eyes: Green
Bought this fragrance on a literal whim after having read copious controversial reviews. That's right. I bought it based solely on description and the fact that it is supposed to be a scent that is either genius or simply strange depending on one's own body chemistry and personal preferences. Something in my gut told me that I would love this scent. And. I DO! All the things you've read really don't need repeating... menthol start that evolves into classic tuberose. On me this fragrance does everything that I had hoped Fracas would do, but doesn't, at least on my skin. Whereas my skin makes Fracas turn somewhat biting and harsh as it wears, T.C. turns creamy with just the softest nip of wintergreen. And it does so quickly. I had been fully prepared to suffer through the antiseptic ointment phase but amazingly, what seems to take time for others, happened almost instantaneously for me. I think this is now my signature evening scent. I am hopelessly in love with it.
Age: 44-55 Skin: Combination, Dark, Warm Hair: Black, Kinky, Coarse Eyes: Brown
I have been reading about this lengendary fragrance for quite some time and having never tried it, based on the reviews, I made a blind purchase of a bell jar from a friend who was visiting Paris. Now I know what all the fuss is about. This is so beautiful, especially once you get past the initial bombastic menthol smell. When the menthol calms down, the floral creation shows up and I must say, that were this not so darned expensive, I would wear it every day. It leaves me breathless and not in a negative way. I have taken to wearing a dab on myself before bedtime so that I can go to sleep happily breathing in the scent. This smells so lush and expensive. It really blossoms in the heat of summer, and at night, it is just too damned sexy. When I wear it, you just cannot tell me that I am not a seductive goddess! Christopher Sheldrake has certainly mastered this one. Only drawback for me is that I have to put it on 30 minutes before I enter the general public. That is when the menthol has dissipated and the goddess makes her appearance. Worth E V E R Y S I N G L E C E N T!!
Age: 30-35 Skin: Dry, Fair, Warm Hair: Red Eyes: Brown
No doubt about it, this is a mega tuberose. Yes, of course, there is that hard hit of camphor cool in the first few minutes, but as it settles down you are left with that beautiful, silky tuberose. It is not as attention-getting as my other love, Carnal Flower, but there are days that its sharper edges and the play of wintergreen are just right for me.
Medium sillage, about 8 hours of wear on me. It is such a different approach to a floral, though, any budding perfumista should be acquainted with it.
Age: 30-35 Skin: Combination, Fair Hair: Blond Eyes: Blue
Godzilla Giant Poison Tuberose of Dooooooooooom with a few gallons of methyl salicylate in the topnotes. Love it. Avoid while pregnant or breastfeeding, consult medical practitioner before use.
Age: 44-55 Skin: Combination, Medium, Warm Hair: Black, Curly, Medium Eyes: Brown
I can't match the eloquence of many previous posters here. With the exception of Antica Farmacista's Casablanca le Parfum I'm not too much of a soloflore lover. But...as TC and Carnal Flower are well known as "sexual napalm", I couldn't resist ordering a decant of both. Suffice it to say that my hubby pronounced both fragrances as " too smelly, and not subtle enough." Note: He's normally not too picky about my fragrances. Oh well, back to Cartier's Heure Mysterieuse.
Age: 19-24 Skin: Oily, Fair, Cool Hair: Blond, Straight, Medium Eyes: Hazel
Bleugh...metallic medicine smell. Instand heachache. Not for me!
Age: 36-43 Skin: Normal Hair: Brown Eyes: Hazel
I nevu tawt I'd wuv a tubewose!!
This perfume is a wild one.
First you get what I'd describe as Drano under the thumb of tuberose. This odd refreshing + narcotic combo lasts some time.
Next, after the wintergreen/drano thing burns off, I find myself smelling like some ultrariche milled soap tubereuse. I love soapy fragrances and you cant' do better than that here.
Finally the soap component is off and away and you've got this transparent rather light tuberose that is just clear as a bell.
What fun! Usually I am not up for wearing anything targeted specifically to either gender, but I very much enjoy not being a girl whilst doing this supposedly parfum de femme. It really doesn't strike me as "womanly" and certainly not, as can be the case with T-flower, "matronly"
I love a good linear fragrance that delivers, but here I get 3 in one. Unbeatable. But wait there's one snag. The longevity is not exactly "party hardy" it gets very delicate on me after a not very long while. So...I think I'll just start spraying it less on my skin more on my shirt.
About the drano lol I've smelled wintergreen in high concentrations in other perfumes and been immediately put off. Now I wonder if I ought not to revisit some of them. After all, Drano is a pretty great smelling product. I've always felt people should get over the lemon oil = Pledge problem (although I concede that like most hard core perfumisto/as, I'm not prone to great excitement over wearing citruses...)
SL bottles. It's a drag when you have them lined up in proud formation and they go keeling over like dominos, ain't it? Some vexations are worth putting up with . . . though....
Age: 36-43 Skin: Combination, Olive, Cool Hair: Brown, Curly, Medium Eyes: Brown
Upon application of this fragrance, I learnt that tuberose is not my smell, at all. It had enormous staying power, which is good and bad. Bad because I wanted to be rid of the aroma, but good, because if you like tuberose, you may love Tubereuse Criminelle.
It had easily identifiable layers, and softened after about an hour - much like the opening of petals to reveal the gift of the flower.
I've read that some people get a camphor/methol hit on application, but I didn't (thank god), perhaps because of my skin's chemistry with this perfume.
I'd say worth a try if you love tuberose, but steer clear if not. Spray in-house or purchase a tester first. I think it runs the risk of the user morphing into a wealthy lady from a country estate, spraying her life away for a church service in the summer of 1876.