Review of Caron Or et Noir by jjff
Gold and black, of flame and of the dark, deep, somber, ceremonial colors evocative of luxury fit for a Medieval queen's dress--fixed, still, perfect colors whose heavy expression never changes. Devoid of life, the perfect name for a fragrance that opens on with a swan song of fully open roses, tired prima donnas already past their glory, their breath starting to carry forth a fragrance of peculiar intensity touched by impeding decay. Or et Noir is not a story of gracious early garden blooms--it's that of roses losing their first petals to the passage of time, of roses wilting on a royal casket, of rose poupourri and rose dust, the rich farewell note fading into the infinite dark, the lingering trail of incense, balsam and woods, an ominous bouquet worthy of Baudelaire's Fleurs du Mal.
Interesting from the viewpoint of perfumer's art, Or et Noir conveys anything but a happy, careless feeling. As a perfume wearer, I'd much rather smell of joie de vivre than the gloire de la mort.
*The listed top notes per Caron are
Bulgarian rose, centifolia rose and
geranium, a heart of Anatolian rose, lilac and carnation, and a base of oakmoss and woody amber.