DON'T ATTEMPT OCM WITHOUT AN EMULSIFIER ........
I started doing the OCM with various oils (including organic ones) and at first my skin felt so good! The plugs in my pores came right out and I looked like I did not even have pores they were so clean. Boy did it feel like I was pampering my skin..... until the breakouts started to happen. At first I thought that maybe my oil was expired because the OCM had worked so well for the first couple weeks (I would wake up with a couple whiteheads but just figured that I did not get all the oil off). I purchased new oil and I tried to push through the “purging” stage so many talk about. Boy was I naive.
Well, let me tell you that my skin is still suffering 5 months after I stopped doing the OCM. You see, oil does remove oils from your skin (idea behind OCM)... but how do you remove the oils that you place on your skin if water does not dissolve oil? There is also a toxin in Castor beans (Ricin) and if the castor oil is not cold pressed and filtered it still contains the toxins. I went from beautiful radiant skin from the Mario Badescu’s Enzyme Cleansing Gel (with the only problems being dark pores) to horrible BOIL INFESTED SKIN. I suffered from cystic acne around that time of the month (1 cyctic pimple), but I NEVER HAD BOILS BEFORE OCM! Even months after I stopped OCM I would wake up with huge dime sized boils (cystic looking inflamed spots) with usually two to three whiteheads on each of them. Some days it was even two or three lesions together. My face hurt and it throbbed. Some of them would break when I talked…. And others would “pop” when I gently washed my face (no washrag –just cleanser and gentle fingers). It took at least a month to clear each lesion and I was getting more daily (again… even months after stopping OCM). I had stopped wearing my usual mineral makeup because I did not want to stress my skin more by washing the makeup off. Having extremely fair skin that scars very easily I am full of scars from the boils caused from OCM. As a grown adult, I actually cried one night over this. I had to hold a cold washrag against my entire face because it hurt so bad from the boils all over (checks, chin, jawline, neck). I was really upset because I knew that it would probably take a year to get rid of the pigmentation scars left behind. The weird thing is that I got all those crazy boils on areas that were not problem areas (cheeks, jawline, neck, chin). I even read that Castor Oil can cause infections to the skin. Now I have dark purple scarring that concealer won’t even cover.
I have done tons of research on OCM since I stopped using it. If I ever dare to use OCM again (because of how well it cleansed my pores, moisturized, and balanced my oily skin so that it stopped overproducing oil) I will be adding Polysorbate 80 and Peg-7 Olivate into my formula. Peg-7 is a water soluble Olive oil ester and Polysorbate 80 is a water soluble emulsifier that disperses oil and water. What this means is that they will help the oils rinse clean with water (something that will not happen without these ingrediants …even with using a cleanser after OCM). Add 5% of each into your formula. I would also use only up to 20% of organic cold pressed castor oil from either GardenOfWisdom.com or MountainRoseHerbs.com. Another oil that could be helpful if you are acnegenic is Safflower oil high in linoleic acid. See http://www.makeupalley.com/user/notepad/d_E_S_S/ for more information on how to figure out which oil is oleic or linoleic and what this oil can do for your skin.
Please make sure that you do not use the oils you have laying around in your kitchen. Those oils could be expired or spoiled from exposure to sunlight or air.
Also everyone's skin reacts differently to OCM. Some can’t use heat with OCM so they just massage and wipe off without steaming. Other people’s skin cannot handle being massaged for a lengthy amount of time (because they are severely acnegenic) so they only massage 2-5 minutes max. Others do not even massage. Make sure that if you do use the steaming method that you frequently change the washrag during the rinsing/steaming cycle and to use fresh water each time. A hand drying bathroom towel is the perfect size for these cycles.
I have been using Safflower oil along with 12% Polysorbate 80 and 12% Peg-7 Olivate all from GardenOfWisdom for 3 months now and I love it! I fill the mixture of emulsifiers (1/4th of the bottle) in an 8 oz bottle and fill the rest with the safflower oil. I than use it as a precleansing oil (I am still worried about breaking out with boils... so I wash it off) before using my Mario Badescu cleanser. I keep it stored in the fridge and replace it every 3 months (which I usually use it up by than anyways). I roll the bottle around and shake it before use to disperse the emulsifiers. I put a teaspoon amount in my hand and rub it into my skin like a regular cleanser to get the makeup and excess oils off. It acts like regular oil until I rinse. When water is added it turns to a gentle white foam that rinses right off. I rinse with warm water to open my pores. I pat completely dry (if still wet the oil will feel sticky when applied) and repeat. The second time around the oil loosens sebum plugs. Next while my skin is still wet I use my cleanser. My pores have never looked so clean and small! I love this stuff! Once in a while I will get surface white heads, but this may either be purging or excess oil that was not rinsed off. Either way my pores look great and I have not had any cystic pimples or boils from using this. I would highly reccommend if you get clogged pores, or as a treatment to clean skin deep down.
*NEW UPDATE* still using cleansing oil with emulsifier following with toner only! For over a year my fave mix: 3/4 hemp seed oil, 1-2 Tbsp cold pressed castor oil (less dry skin, more for clogged skin), 1-2Tbsp Rose hips seed oil (summer-winter), 1/4 emulsifie
I too have started using the oil cleansing method. I use 80% Safflower oil and 10% each of polysorbate 80 and Peg-7 Olivate. It is amazing! It gets out lots of blackheads and whiteheads, and easily washes off with the emulsifiers. My skin is not stripped at all, but it removes difficult makeup and moisturizes my face to help keep flakyness away!
It reminds me of the precleanse from dermalogica, only without all of the essential oils added (which sadly I was allergic to)
Doing the DIY skincare saves money because I am not paying for a name brand and I end up using ingredients that I know I am not allergic to so I don't have to throw products away!
I've been experimenting with rinsable oil cleansers since Retin-A made my cheeks too sensitive to tolerate the wiping involved in cold cream or regular oil cleansing. I still needed an oily cleanser since my sunscreen just laughs at soap and water.
The actual oils I used were consistent throughout my experiments, a combination of sunflower/coconut/olive I know my skin likes.
I first tried polysorbate-20 between 5 and 10% and had trouble finding a balance where the oil would rinse clean but not leave my face feeling tight and dry.
While I was waiting on an order of Cromollient I tried with some BTMS pastilles that I had left over from other projects: 1/2 tsp BTMS to about 8 Tb. mixed oils. This went much better. The BTMS provided a lush moisturizing effect and my skin wasn't dried out. It feels slimy or slippery when I rinse it, but leaves no residue and hasn't clogged my pores. I also like the milky, slightly thickened consistency the mixture has.
I only recently tried an oil blend with slightly under 10% Cromollient and I think on balance I prefer it slightly to the BTMS just because it's easier to rinse clean and does have a clean feel under my hands when it's completely rinsed off. It leaves my skin feeling even softer than the BTMS did. I think about 7 or 8% is going to be the right amount for me, otherwise it can be drying, but unlike polysorbate-20, there is a "just right" place I can find with it.
Bottom line, I'll use up the BTMS I have left but reorder the Cromollient.
I have been using 9 parts hemp seed oil, 1 part polysorbate 80 as my PM cleanser and makeup remover for about 2 years now and it's about the best thing I have ever done for my face. I have combination, (very) clog and acne prone skin that isn't sensitive really, but hasn't reacted well to any foaming, cream, or other cleansers in all my 29 years. I originally tried the non-emulsified, massage-and-steam method of oil cleansing (which I reviewed separately) but didn't have a great experience. One day I was reading about someone who added polysorbate 80 to her oil to bind it to water so it would rinse clean and this sounded so... logical. My issue before had been that the oil would remove all of my makeup and suncreen and felt as though it was getting into my pores and cleaning there too BUT (excessive amounts of) steam were not fully removing the oil (and whatever gunk it had collected) from my pores. SO my face would look and feel clean, but I was getting an increased number of clogs and breakouts.
Enter an emusifier. The point of adding the polysorbate (or other emulsifier) is simply to bind the oil to water when you're ready to rinse. So I simply apply the oil mixture to my dry face, massage gently until I am satisfied that I am thoroughly clean, then rinse with normal, lukewarm water. When I add the water it even creates a tiny bit of lather, which makes it easier to get every last bit of eye makeup without being too rough on the delicate eye-area skin.
I initially started this with the thorough massage recommended with non-emulsified OCM but found that was too much for every night (yes, this method removed everything thoroughly enough that if overdone, I get dry!). So now, and for roughly a year and a half, I use the oil as I would a normal foaming cleanser most nights - just massage for a few minutes and rinse off. I only do a lengthy, deep massage about once weekly or when I feel like I need it (i.e. if my skin has been oilier than usual lately, if I've worn far more makeup than usual, etc).
After cleansing, my face feels clean but not stripped, dry or tight and looks even without any redness or irritation. I have had perhaps around 5% of my usual clogs/breakouts since about a year ago as well - though I don't think oil cleansing ALONE has done this, but the cleansing in combination with my other skin care rituals.
This is a really cheap cleanser too. I buy my polysorbate from GoW and the bottle I have (which I *think* is 4 ounces. since the larger size was out of stock last time) has lasted through nearly a year so far (probably have enough left for one more bottle of cleanser).
I really love that this rinses away clean and negates the need for a follow-up cleanser. I would recommend anyone who has had trouble finding a cleanser try this method BUT make sure you are using an oil that you KNOW works for your skin. I use hempseed because it's one of the only ones that doesn't break me out, I also use it as a face and body moisturizer and in some food so I always have it on hand anyway. I would highly recommend trying out whatever oil you want to cleanse with as a moisturizer first - otherwise, if OCM doesn't work for you, how will you know if it's the method or the oil?
I started using this method and my mixture is very similar to what other reviewers are using. I use 8 parts Hemp Seed Oil and 1 part each of Peg-Olivate and Polysorbate 80 liquid (roughly 10% each...I eye ball the amount and add each part to a small glass jar with eye dropper top). I first remove my eye make up with eye make up remover as the oil seems to make my eyes cloudy or something and the on dry skin (and on top of face make up), I smear a very generous amount on to my face with clean hands. Sometimes I spend a long time working it in to rough feeling places, areas that are more clog-prone (my forehead, chin, and nose areas) before washing off. Sometimes I just rub in quickly and rinse off with warm water (I use in the mornings as well, but use far less and wash quickly).
Once in awhile if I feel like I have peeling or my skin needs a little manual exfoliation I will use a washcloth (soaked in warm/hot water, not scalding water) to remove the oil and make up and then rinse my face once more with just water to make sure its clean.
This method is working very well on my previously very clogged skin. I also switched my make up back to something I knew didn't clog my pores, I tried a foundation that was awful for my skin. I also follow-up at night with more hemp seed oil as needed. Or I use a 2% salicylic acid toner (alcohol free). All products are from Garden of Wisdom. excpet the hemp seed oil. This I just buy at the health foods store.
wash face using OCM Oil Cleansing Method with Polysorbate/Peg Olivate
Hemp Seed Oil as moistuizer
spot treat as needed with Persa-Gel Clean & Clear BP gel
mineral make up (Meow cosmetics) and Glow Minerals concealer as needed
mineral/powder sunscreen (Jane Iredale)
wash face using OCM Oil Cleansing Method with Polysorbate/Peg Olivate
Hemp Seed Oil as moistuizer if dry
2% salicylic acid toner - Garden of Wisdom if skin is congested
I am loving this. Effective, non-irritating, and easy to rinse. My current recipe for 5 oz of cleansing oil is:
2 ounces castor oil
1 ounce rice bran oil
1/2 ounce grapeseed oil
1/2 ounce avocado oil
1/2 ounce apricot oil
1/4 ounce Cromollient SCE
1/4 ounce Polysorbate 80
This makes a golden-colored, clean-rinsing oil with no scent.
I can use this for a nice long facial massage, makeup removal, and all around cleanser. I rinse with a cool washcloth (my rosacea can't handle a hot washcloth or steaming session). I've toyed with more expensive oils but this is my favorite combination so far. I've not had a single problem. No purging, no dryness or oiliness. I get my emulsifiers from lotioncrafter and they are pretty economical since you use a small amount with each batch. Also posting this review in the OCM topic.