Une Fleur de Cassie has one of the most intolerably unusual openings I've ever experienced. I find the initial blast distinctively artificial and musty (and if you apply a wee bit too much, look out, it's powerful!). It takes a while to settle down on me to a musty fog of hazy violet, aldehydes, and trace notes of jasmine. It then becomes a hint sweeter, which brings about a lightness that could not be more welcome. In the final stage, as if the clouds parted in the sky to reveal a rainbow, a creamy blend of mimosa and spices is revealed. Nice showdown, but way too musty of an opening and middle for me to weather through.
In it's description, "bordering on coarse" is used. Coarse, sharp, almost marine-like describes this scent. Not my usual preference for a floral blend type, I found this scent unpleasant. It is very light and in my opinion, not worth the money.
This was one of the three fragrances recommended to me by the Frederic Malle questionnaire. There is a very sweet, rich floral note, which I think must be the cassie (don't know what this is) or the mimosa, on a powdery-cedary-musky base. I do not detect any cumin, violet or rose because this one note overpowers everything else. Vaguely reminiscent of loo-cleaner and certainly not one I'd want to wear again! So far I prefer Iris Poudre of this line of fragrances.
I thought this was absolutely awful, one of the worst things I've smelled ever. I was tempted to try it because someone on Perfume of Life described the opening notes as similar to the opening notes of Je Reviens, and that is true -- for about the first 15 seconds. After that, it's a really unpleasant rabbit-cage smell, coupled with some kind of foody yeastiness. Terrible, and I like a lot of off-beat scents, too. I don't know what they were thinking with this one. What IS that smell?
Smelling this on my skin, I have no clue what the notes are, but it's disgusting. It's simultaneously sour, spicy, and powdery, and I don't smell any flowers other than faintly rotting honeysuckle. It does smell like a paper mill, as so many others have said. As far as Mimosa scents go, I much prefer the shy, sweet version by L'Artisan. I hope this wasn't named after a real person, because--well, poor Cassie. The only saving grace is that the scathing reviews for it made me laugh. Except for manon's statement that this is similar to PdN's Juste Un Reve (one of my top 5 most gorgeous perfumes). That made me want to cry.
Received a beautiful spray sample of this from one of my favorite perfume enablers of all time. She often sends me samples of the product lines she is currently fixated on, and right now it's Malle. Of all the wonderful things I have gotten from her, this is the strangest. I don't absolutely hate it, but I won't wear it either. There are too many way more beautiful perfumes out there and I won't waste my fragrance dollars on this. I have it on my wrist right now. Whatever it is in there, I know I don't want to smell like this. I normally test new fragrances in the morning, before the daily shower. Today, I am particularly looking forward to that shower.
Reminescent of soiled baby diapers ie: (urine on baby powder) or a dirty barn.
If I test something with the intention of reviewing it afterward, I try to wear it through to the end, even if I really dislike it. Sometimes wonderful surprises can appear at the drydown that cause me to moderate my hatred, and at least I'll be able to judge how long it lasts for people who *might* love it. I've had Une Fleur de Cassie on for a little over an hour, and I'm not sure how much more I can take before I run to wash it off.
I see some mentions of paper mills in previous reviews; I lived next to a paper mill town for seventeen years, and I agree completely. I have no problem with the violet (which is often iffy for me) and I find the cumin and woods that emerge after 20 minutes to be interesting---although I bet that people who are iffy with cumin may find this one B.O.-ish. None of this is the dealbreaker for me; instead, there's some note in the background---I'm struggling to figure out what it is---that smells like highly-used, never-cleaned men's urinal to me, and it's making my stomach lurch. I've read the note descriptions and I've no clue what it is. I'm unfamiliar with cassie flower and salicylate, so I'm betting it's one of them. Ugh.
To summarize: Mr. Ed trots by the paper mill after his morning exercises. He rests in a patch of flowers and munches on a bowlful of canned Vienna sausages. He's a bit sweaty under the arms, but doesn't care. He drifts off, wholly relaxed by the melange of scents that tickle his nostrils. He doesn't know it, but he's inspired Une Fleur de Cassie.
This fragrance doesnīt agree with me at all. It opens with a strong, unusual note that I canīt quite define then becomes very powdery. The drydown is the best part, when the mimosa comes out and settles into a soft, nice smell, but Iīve got to wait too much for that to happen.