Une fleur de cassie is a perfume built on a whooping 4% of cassie absolute, and is a tribute to this difficult, beautiful, multi-faceted, scarce and valuable material.
Cassie flowers belong to the same family of mimosas and their absolute is extracted from the flowers of Acacia Farnesiana shrubs. The smell of cassie absolute is complex and dense: animalic, floral, creamy, sulfurous, powdery and aldehydic.
Une fleur de cassie doesn’t shy away from all these facets, even the difficult ones: it is a floral aldehydic perfume that downplays its soapy powderyness with whispers of dirty/sulfurous undertones. The best comparison I can make is that it smells of someone wearing a great chanel classic, as n° 5 or Bois des iles, gardening under a spring rain, boots in the mud, intoxicating flowers in bloom all around. For the richness and contrasts, for its splendor and decadence, I find it more beautiful than the great classics it reminds me of.
The opening and the heart seem to perfectly balance a continuous tension: une fleur de cassie contrasts the sweet with the earthy, the severe soapiness of aldehydes with a delicious comforting warmth; the powder is kept in check by a clear, honeyed, floral voice. As time progresses, it becomes sweeter and slightly balsamic, until it fades in a whisper of skin kissed by the sun.
This is the most stunning, wonderful, challenging, elegant fragrance I’ve ever smelled.
Well, it is very true that in perfumery, your miles may vary!
I am astonished in reading all the not-so-good reviews.... I do not get half of the notes that are mentioned here. Urine? Diapers? skank? no way!!
This is a clean, soft skin scent, totally adorable and easy to wear, but as I said, everyone is different.
Let me say for a start that sprayed is different than dabbed (i dabbed mine). And on skin you get totally different reaction than on cardboard.
On cardboard it a bit *nasty*. I get some chemical note, like rubber. But not unpleasant
On the skin, I smell a lot of violet, and I immediately thought "this is next of kin to Dans tes Bras" (another Malle that I adore). But then it evolves. I get a LOT or iris in its rooty, earthy tone, the same Iris you get in Iris Pallida or Après l'Ondée.
But Cassie is mainly about violet, to my nose. A soft violet , close to skin.
Again, on a cardboard the jasmine emerges, but I do not find it too indolic, it is pleasant. On my skin, jasmine does not develop (and it is a note that I adore, and I'd love to smell it).
The drydown is soft, powdery, resinous, warm. The iris is not so cold anymore.
No detection of mimosa (a sickly sweet note I hate, I would absolutely pick it), or probably it is a mimosa not interpreted the usual way ! But I do smell sweet lilac (the bush)
To me this is a fantastic scent; abolutely soft and not overpowering.
Lasting power (like all Malles on me) is not more than one hour, alas.
notes as per Osmoz:
top notes Absolu Mimosa, Absolu Rose
heart note Cassie Flower, Absolu Jasmin, Carnation
base note Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood
*thumbs up* for une fleur de cassie!
what a georgous scent!
The dry down is nice, its feminine, elegant and you can imagine it being worn by someone starring in the old musicals you see on tv on sunday afternoons. The first hour though is blaghh, the aldehydes are overpowering, my little boy kept wandering round asking what the funny smell was, one of those fragrances that could leave people gasping for air in lifts!!
I like the drydown but not enough to endure those topnotes again!
SCARY top and middle territory, here. The aldehydic top will knock you and everyone else over. The cumin middle note risks offending at least half the people you meet if you leave the house too soon, (curry in a hurry, anyone?) As all Malles do, it takes a good half hour to reveal itself. At that point, it sinks into your skin and smells like great sex. Then, it morphs into a clean, soft, powdery finish--rather like a shower after Indian food and great sex! This is the Malle that should have been called Carnal Flower.
Ordered a free 2ml sample directly from Editions de Parfums - great way to try the Malle scents (though you do have to pay shipping from Paris). Have tried it once so far. Though I can appreciate the scent, it's not for me. I get lots of indolic florals in the beginning, but after about 1/2 hour, everything turns to cumin. Sorry. Can't do cumin! Especially when it dominates everything else. If you like cumin and florals, you'll probably like this scent!
Une Fleur de Cassie (UFdC) is by Dominic Ropion for Frédéric Malle. Ropion builds this scent around an accord of cassie, mimosa, and jasmine, with rose, carnation, vanilla, and a spicy-woody sandalwood base. Cassie is actually Acacia farnesiana (and not cassia), which makes this scent kissing cousins to Caron’s Farnesiana. However, I would say that UFdC is emphatically Farnesiana’s vastly more sensual, voluptuous, wanton, and carnal cousin. Yes, there is skank to be found in UFdC, making it a scent that you either love or you hate.
The very first time I tested Une Fleur de Cassie (UFdC), I dismissed it as overwhelmingly floral, and therefore not for me. Yet hours later, my attention was piqued by the linger sweet fragrance of the sandalwood drydown. Days later, I found myself craving the experience again, so I re-spritzed. Again came the florals, but I paid more attention, noting the interplay of light and dark, sweet and almost powdery mimosa against the liqueur of rose and indolic jasmine. Oh, but there’s that alarming sweatiness again, that almost fecal note. Oh no… and so I put it away.
The third time, I got it! Sweet florals make it pretty, but skank, oh skank! Skank makes it beautiful, heady, and intoxicating. Skank speaks of mortality, as though these flowers have bloomed and are already on the edge of decay. There is a French expression that comes to mind, une fleur fanée, meaning a flower at the end of its blooming, when the petals have opened wide and have nothing more to give. Soon they will drop from the stem, and yet for the moment, they retain a certain flawed, world-weary beauty. Thus, for me, UFdC also has a certain melancholy. A sadness for the passing of beautiful things, but the knowledge that beauty is beauty because it must inevitably fade away…
I should note that UFdC is also available from Frédéric Malle as a rich beurre exquise. Though this scent may not be to everyone’s taste, it is rich and complex, and, as my experience shows, well worth taking time to consider. I recommend both the eau de parfum and the body butter highly.
This is a gorgeous, rich fragrance. Had to change this review to say that this is, indeed, a very sexy fragrance. It smells warm. It's the only one where "skin scent" makes sense to me. It's more than skin though. I don't get a weird topnote at all. My only wish is that it were stronger; I want even more of this stuff when I apply it! Nothing distinctly floral jumps out either. The first time I wrote this review, I said it was kind of gourmand. That was off of a 1 ml sample. Now, having gone through most of a 5 ml sample, I'd say it's more about sex.
To me, this is a more complex version of Joy, which also gets a lot of urine/diaper/fecal comparisons. Honestly, I would never knowingly wear something that reeks of the unsvaory things mentioned above so I don't quite get the analogy. I'm sure it exists as many people have picked up on it but my skin doesn't react that way. On the other hand, there is something which smells "dirty" but I am assuming it's the cumin. For once, I can actually pull it off and that makes Cassie very special.
Another Frederic Malle lemming cruelly slayed. I'm feeling no small amount of anxiety in awarding a Frederic Malle (a Malle!) fragrance a 1-lippie. Based on the wild disparity of the previous reviews here, I knew going into uFdC that I was either going to love it, or...not. I was intrigued by talk of sensual sandalwood (be still my heart), a spicy drydown, and musky undertones. Alas, the "skin-like" and "clean-but-dirty" analogies were lost on me; yes, I smelled skin, but it was skin in need of a bath. The indolic jasmine was one reason this didn't work for me; I should simply stop trying to find a fragrance with a jasmine note that I can work with, but I seem to be determined to find one. I was hoping this note would be in the background, but the crowning blow for me was its marriage to the mimosa note. Having had a similar reaction to other mimosa fragrances, it's clear to me now that mimosa smells dirty on my skin....and not in a good way. No amount of creamy sandalwood can compensate for my chemical intolerance of these two florals. I'm envious of all the ladies who rave about the wonders of this fragrance...I sure wish I could enjoy what they are smelling.