I live in France and hoped to replace my old Double Perfection compact in 10 Vanilla - Lumière, purchased in the US circa 2007. I wanted something to use over a bare face on hot days, to touch up my concealer or oily t-zone applied wet, and as a finishing powder over Estee Lauder Double Wear Light liquid foundation.
My first choice was Chanel's Mat Lumière powder for its silicone content, to replace a primer, and the 25 SPF, though I still wear 30 SPF daily. I compared it against Urban Decay's matte powder and Mat Lumière is more soft and natural. The finish was a beautiful, smooth, non-drying velvet matte but for some reason the shade selection in store was limited to maybe six warm shades. I have pale golden-leaning skin with peachy undertones. My closest match as determined by the sales assistant (40 Sable though 70 Pastel may have been a better option) looked nice in the store but was too tan in natural light.
So, in lieu of Double Perfection with no match in Mat Lumière, I tried the Vitalumière Compact Douceur in 12 Beige Rosé. 12 is actually a perfect match for my skin, even preferable to 10, which felt heavier and could leave a slightly white cast. Though the characteristic transparence of powder probably contributes to that seamless quality, it actually does kind of "melt in" to skin, rather than feel like it's sitting on top, while still helping to control shine. The hydrating component in general is less scary for my combination-oily skin type than I assumed it would be, counteracting the tightness and creasing that can result from layering with products such as foundation or dry-touch sunscreen. Previously powders with luminizing properties have made me look like I just walked through a cloud of greenish graphite dust, but that isn't an issue here.
A kabuki-style powder brush gives lighter coverage, while the sponge used dry or wet gives buildable medium coverage that won't become cakey or obvious. The creamier texture makes it possible to use a foundation brush for more precise coverage at a level somewhere between. I'm impressed by how well a quick, dry layer on its own evens out my skin tone, including acne and redness. Pretty and (preter)natural.
As far as I can tell, Chanel pioneered the current "new" generation of powder foundations with Double Perfection, and the original in its Vitalumière iteration is still the best in today's market. 5/5 for the packaging: a practical refillable portable black compact in a velvet pouch, with applicator and mirror, elegant but simple enough to suit any age or sense of style. 4/5 overall due to the high price, missing shades in the Mat Lumière version, and exclusion of replacement sponges in refills.
Since my old Vitalumiere Eclat was used up and being discontinued, I was left no choice but to purchase the new version.
For the texture, the older version is definitely more finely milled. The surface of the newer version, when used, will become kind of bumpy instead of just a smooth surface. Anyway, the new version still glides on nicely on my face though I have a feeling that this provides less "slip".
Also, this powder is more shimmery, which isn't really obvious in pan and on face, unless under really bright light. Instead of providing a skin-like satin-matte finish like the old version, this is more like satin-dewy finish. If you're looking to add radiance / luminosity to your complexion, you'd probably be happier with the newer version.
The coverage of this foundation is basically the same as the old one - light to medium but unlikely to be built to full.
As for the staying power, again, it's more or less the same as the previous version but it seems to get patchy after a few hours occasionally. However, the patchy problem doesn't seem to appear when I'm back to somewhere with a higher humidity and smaller diurnal temperature variation. Therefore, I suppose this is a weather problem?
If I'm given a choice, I'll purchase Vitalumiere Eclat instead... But since there's no choice, I'm still happy to go with this one.