If I were paying a perfumer to make my own personal scent, this perfume comes closest to how it would turn out -- my own personal "me" perfume -- the one with my name on it.
It's Cartier's Must de Cartier EDT (as pictured), with the burgundy cap and amber glass oval bottle. This, for me, has all the right notes -- evokes all the best feelings -- feels like it was tailor-made for me -- and it's the only bottle that I keep a backup of in my closet. I also have 2 minis of the pure perfume, and I love to dab these also.
Warning: there is a Must de Cartier II with a gold cap and clear glass bottle w/ corners, and it's an entirely different scent -- and not good at all IMHO. I was once sent this one by mistake by an etailer and sent it back.
Much as I love gourmands, soft florals, and skin-musky scents -- the dark, rich, comforting Fall/Winter woody-oriental category is a big favorite -- esp those containing a noticeable vanilla note (my favorite note) -- and Must de Cartier EDT would have to be my alltime favorite perfume within that category
The notes, per Fragrantica.com are : "Top notes are aldehydes, pineapple, green mandarin, galbanum, peach, bergamot, brazilian rosewood and lemon; middle notes are carnation, leather, yellow narcissus, musk, orchid, orris root, jasmine, vetiver, neroli, ylang-ylang and rose; base notes are amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, vetiver and civet."
It's hard to tell from that bizarre note list, but this is a rich, deep, mature, sophisticated oriental. I love Fall/Winter & the Christmas season, and it reminds me of Christmas shops, Christmas candles, and ski lodges. It's cozy, wintery, spicy-woodsy-resiny-vanilla deliciousness. It's in the same general fragrance family as Obsession & Samsara.
When I first found it, years ago, I couldn't stop wearing it and went through half of a 3.4oz bottle before I finally slowed down. I read in a magazine, yrs ago, that Melanie Griffith wore it, at the time anyway (daughter of Tippi Hedren and wife of Antonio Banderas).
Ugh, I cannot express in words how much I adore this scent! It's womanly, mature and strong, without smelling like something your grandmother would wear. It's sweet, yet not floral at all. It can be overpowering, though, you just have to be careful on the amount you put on. Other than that, I have no complains! Trust me, you will not regret buying this perfume EVER. I will be repurchasing again and again and again.
Two lippies for nostalgia value; that's it. LOVE the comment below about this being Regine's in the 70's. Completely spot-on. The juice itself is like a bad dupe of Obsession (or vice versa, but who cares?). It's a very generic citrusy musk a la spawn of Shalimar. And, yes, it does smell like hair pomade. While there are a gazillion perfumes out there that are completely of their time (YSL Rive Gauche, Paris, Givenchy III just to name a few), the *good* ones transcend that period and are able to live on their own merit 50 years later. Not Must de Cartier. It remains a very thin, generic smell reminiscent of many body sprays out there in its harsh muskiness. A *must smell* only as reference; preferably while reading Bonfire of the Vanities.
The version I am reviewing is the EDT. Upon first spray, it smells, as others have mentioned, like a mixture of Opium and Obsession, and a very yummy mixture at that. After half an hour of wear, the spices fade out, and it's very much more reminiscent of Obsession, but a lighter, softer version of Obsession (at least in EDP form, which I have). It's very nice, but so similar to Obsession that I can't imagine needing both.
I only wear two scents, and I have been using Must de Cartier EDT the longest. It is complex, mysterious and reacts quite differently with each woman's chemistry. I feel as if it were made just for me.
(Note that the EDP is quite different from the EDT.)
One glorious fragrance that I intend to use all my life. What got me in the first instance was the overall sensation rather than individual notes; and if I had to choose a metaphor for it, it would either be copper or bronze, that dim shine of materials from the bosom of the earth. It is a fragrance that cools when I think it's on the verge of heating up and vice versa. This is the touch of softest, cooling silk on warm skin, the contrasting and complementing lilac, purple and brown in an unexpected way.
The opening is cold and aldehydic, ever so slightly alcohol-laden and masculine but there is nothing to bother me. A sheer lavender and light carnation pop up and there are cool, lush, wet garden notes - though I wouldn't call it necessarily green. Here, everything happens beneath the magical, hazy tulle of a light spicy oriental afternoon sunshine of a fragrance. The heart is soft, round and truly present with clean and velvety flower notes; jasmine -usually not a favourite of mine- is also clean here. Hot and cold, hot and cold in a syncopated beat, Must dries down to a soft and slightly dark base that conveys the warmth of luxury notes. (It often makes me think of Dune with the similar hot and cold thing.) Beyond the genre of luxury fragrances that give an automatic sense of money or sophistication, there is also something in it that makes me think of Alene Lee (Mardou Fox in Kerouac's Subterraneans) - a woman both so close and familiar, and so separate and unbounded.
One of the best Fragance in the world.
In Paris, France, people like it very much .
I've just recently rediscovered this beautiful fragrance. I wore it from time to time in the 80's but it was never my signature scent. I always felt it was a bit too ladylike and heavy for me back then.
After a few lifestyle changes this year my body chemistry changed and my old favorites didn't smell so good on me anymore. I started to look for replacements, and although some of the fragrances I couldn't wear before still smell terrible on me (Shalimar, why do you hate me?), some now actually smell wonderful. Must de Cartier is one of them.
Gone is the heavy feeling and instead it's turned into a soft oriental, very feminine and non-intrusive with a wonderful warmth to it. I just love it. I won't go into notes except to say that on me it doesn't smell masculine or pomade-like at all.
I used to think it had similiarities to Obsession, but a quick test for comparison the other day made me realize how plastic-y and thin Obession is nowadays. Youth Dew is another fragrance which conveys a bit of the same feeling as Must, but Youth Dew is unfortunately a stinker on me these days, although I still love it on others.
I have Must in EdT and a summer edition from a decade back, Eau Légère, which is also delightful. I've never tried the pure parfum, but I hope I will be able to some day.
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but the scent presently known as Must de Cartier was once the "evening" companion to a Must de Cartier "Jour" EdT and it was released as a parfum. Then, the daytime version was discontinued and the parfum version was made into an EdT concentration, which is the current Must de Cartier.
At some point after the daytime version was discontinued, Must was reformulated a bit, but this tinkering wasn't drastic and Must still is recognizable as Must, much in the same way that Shalimar is still recognizable as Shalimar despite tweaking.
Must is an ambery Oriental with a distinctive--to my nose--pomade note. This note lends Must a masculinity; is it hair tonic we are smelling? That it calls to mind an old-fashioned barbershop isn't cause for alarm, since the nose quickly "learns" this note and it becomes reductive. This is when a warm citrus note appears more prominent and the "hair tonic" turns out to be the confluence of the tobacco note with the citrus. I am normally not a fan of tobacco note, but it is disguised enough here that it isn't an issue.
I hesitate to mention leather, but it is listed. I don't find it unless I go looking for it, and its existence shouldn't deter people who have an aversion. Must dries down fairly quickly into its ambery and vanillic base. This sounds sweet, but it is well tempered by a minor animalic chord that rests below a luxurious dark powdery effect.
Parfum concentration is a powerhouse, sumptuous and thick and evocative of the scent of cigars mingling with jet set-luxe parfums. This is Regine's in 1977, and although I tend to dislike describing scent in pictorial terms, there is enough of a period feel to this that it warrants the reference, perhaps more so because it is so very opposite any current trend in fragrance.
Although Must is going into its 30th year, the real standout was the original "Jour" scent, which is still available as "Must de Cartier Classic." This was a strikingly different Oriental with a green grassiness at the top. The classic version can, I believe, be found in packaging marked "Ligne Voyage" (but not exclusively). This concentration is well worth seeking out.
I've been wearing this since 1996 and love it. it's vanilla, ambery, and powdery on me.