Notes: lemon tree flower, orange, amyris, iris, vetiver and musky amber.
Opens with a boozy-spicy white floral accord. I am not able to see anything else, the blend of jasmine and iris is so potent. The floral accord pulsates as the notes bloom on my skin; there are moments it is rich and sparkly and there are moments it is flat and stale. The fragrance is nevertheless quite pleasant to wear, I especially like the addition of tangy citrus to brighten and freshen the composition. There are moments when I compare Amyris Femme to Dior's Gran Bal because their opening seem similar, but once the central elemi note takes centre-stage a comparison is no longer possible. The fragrance becomes greener and fresher, slowly shedding its heady floral notes and focusing more on the green and citrus-like nuances of the resin. This development is emphasised by the addition of vetiver which enhances the fresh- and greenness of elemi. A hazy musky amber adds a powdery finish to the elemi-vetiver blend and accompanies the two main notes into the softest of dry-downs.
To me this is a beautiful iris chypre, even though oakmoss is not listed in the notes. Extremely similar to Iris Nobile EDP (not the EDT) and therefore not a must have for me since I have the Iris Nobile. Beautifully blended and worth checking out.
My first impression was "wow. love this. must get full bottle". In that order. The first sniff is very green, very fresh, young, dynamic but also womanly. I have to say that the development for the first 4-5 hrs (yes, this has nice longevity) is minimal. More of the same. Green green green/citrus, minus the candied note so often present in MFK's citrus creation, but able to convey both adulthood and professionalism without veering into Chanel 19 (one of my favorites) ice queen territory.
Think dynamic monday morning, lots of rest the night before, big presentation to do but you feel prepared and strong and you're going to impress everybody... I totally picture a young woman impeccably put-together walking fast along a midtown Manhattan avenue.
So right there, you should get the sense this is a very office-appropriate, *almost* 90's-like offering minus the screechy aquatic note. It's good. in a Calyx way, yes?
Ok, then something happens. The iris appears. And this particular iris is not one I like. Let me explain: I thought I LOVED all forms of iris. Cannot get enough of the yummy purply-grayness of iris pallid, orris (I see orris in a composition and immediately pull out the Amex), its yummy powdery yet chilly facet. And then I smelled a few creations which claimed iris was in there, and all I could think was "ugh". Where's the iris??? All I smell is some cheap nail polish remover.
The one that particularly left me flumoxed was Iris Nobile by Acqua di Parma (beloved brand, uses top notch ingredients..) I couldn't figure out why to me all I could get was a thing acetone smell.
Well, guess what? After 4-5 hrs of happily humming along to the tune of Amyris Femme, I smelled it. EXACTLY. the scent morphed into Iris Nobile. And stayed, and stayed. Ugh.
What a shame.
In a way, I'm glad I learned much more from this scent than from many others, because I understood that there is a very particular form of Iris Pallida that somehow does not work for me AT ALL. And FK used this one in abundance.
I was also able to truly experience how well this scent is built, in that the stages appeared in a nice continuity, as opposed to being the result of some type of molecular breakdown, as so often seems the case. It was also delicious to be in the present of a scent that does not put it all *out front* for the mall purchaser (yes Bottega Venetta, I'm looking at you) and then leaves you to deal with a hot mess after the initial first 45 minutes. Amyris Femme takes its time unveiling its of its stages in a deliberate fashion, that will keep you discovering its journey for a good 6-8 hours. This is a gorgeously-constructed scent by a master perfumer. He just didn't use the part of the iris I happen to love.
However, if you are a fan of the iris of Iris Nobile, love greens and are looking for something light but truly present and well-built, get yourself a sample.
Reviews for the masculine counterpart are quite glowing as well. Worth trying.
I felt in love with the perfume before trying it...strange, no? The description talked to me because I'm a huge fan of iris and tried many perfumes that have iris as ingredient. However, all iris perfumes I have tried, some beautifully made, were too heavy and intoxicating. The moment I tried Amyris on my skin, I knew it was different...I can feel my beloved iris without getting a headache. Combined with citrus, musk and of course, amyris it makes a fragrance that is surprising, sophisticated, elegant, without being overwhelming. It evolves from something light and fresh to a warm, mysterious and intimate fragrance...just perfect! It has a long lasting power but fades in time and remains close to the skin. Some might say this is a spring/summer frangrance but I will wear right now, in a cold and rainy autumn as a nostalgic memory of the summer...
This perfume is absolutely awesome. My fingers are shaking as i am typing this i love this scent so much. Amyris is another one of those masculine/feminie fusions that have seem to become so popular of late. It is perfect for either gender to wear. Amyris has woods and a lot of citris like alot of men's colognes have and it also has a tender floral note of iris. I think i can detect lemons, oranges, in this scent. I get TONS of compliments when i wear it so that is nice. It is very strong and stands tall. Super super fragrance.