Autumn is finally here after a long and humid summer. Will Mitzah help me transition from amicable summer scents to deeper, more thoughtful perfumes of autumn?
Dior's muse opens with deliciously pungent notes on my skin, hinting at tanned leather - which I seem to like quite a lot nowadays. Once dry, I start to notice a soft, non-edgy incense and cinnamon. At this stage, the perfume is considerably sweeter, albeit with some powderiness from what I think is cinnamon.
During the heart, I start to notice similarities to my reference amber, Ambre Sultan but Mitzah is consierably sweeter, and perhaps a bit flat or tired on my skin. It also radiates more, whereas I think Ambre Sultan is more muted but at the same time deeper and more complex.
Soon I realise the waft around me. It's mostly honey, perhaps with a bit of smoke and to my surprise, it's a pretty cuddly, cozy smell.
The drydown, or the phase leading to it is the only time I can smell floral undertones in Mitzah.
Altogether, it's certainly a distingusihed fragrance above a certain quality; it has depth and complexity; and it delivers both in terms of sillage and longevity. However, it's not FB worthy for me a) because these discontinued bottles are too big b)it's a bit too sweet on my skin (I'd love it if it was slightly drier) c) I'm already in love with Ambre Sultan and I don't feel like straying from it because of Mitzah.
Still, I'm happy to have tried it. I think it has the potential to become a signature on the right person.
All the comments about incense and honey, its beauty and class, are all true. I adore it. You would think with incense and spices being the first 3 notes it would be over powering but I smell spicy honey. If you love honey this is for you. But, it's not overwhelmingly sweet or cloying. It's perfectly balanced. It's a shame it's discontinued, I will cherish my 30 mls for very special occasions.
Personally it wasn't for me but its certainly unusual and well crafted fragrance. It ticks all the boxes, complicated but smooth, clean but strong. Definetly one for perfume lovers.
Probably my second favorite in La Collection Couturier. Mitzah is not subtle. She is a sweet, boozy, vanilla-heavy mix which hums with that characteristic benzoin present in many many offerings these days. One reviewer below calls this scent "fat", and that is exactly right on the money. In the same sense that biting into a piece of pure pig fat (think of French charcuterie rilletes or other pates rimmed in white creamy pure lard) can be both quite pleasant, if tempered with a perfect piece of crusty baguette and a sip of good red wine; yet give you a heave-like sensation of surfeit if you're not exactly in the right mood or already have had a heavy meal, Mitzah can behave in the same way. On the perfect crispy cold day, surrounded in cashmere and furs, Mitzah will feel absolutely luscious and perfect in the way of many Guerlains. But it will just as easily tip the scale into an over-the-top caricature of orientalist mess which will clear a room in seconds if over-applied or mixed with the wrong skin chemistry. Not nearly as well-crafted as its Guerlain antecedents, but the price is about half of that for a bottle of Tonka Imperiale or Musc Ravageur, leaving Mitzah as a good entry level boozy/vanillic/oriental. Sample first.
I loved this at first sniff.... unusual but beautiful! oriental amber suitable for work- Win-Win! Price point is actually reasonable!!!
Mitzah is gorgeous, an entrant in what I call the "super-fat" category - frangrances almost overstuffed with vanillan and smoky notes. Other fragrances in this category are Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille, Guerlain Bois Armenie, Killian Back to Black, Guerlain Cuir Beluga.
Mitzah has the dense labdanum of Norma Kamali's Incense, a spine of patchouli, light metallic clinks of geranium. Everything is enrobed in a deep layer of super-dense vanillan, the synthetic vanilla. That's not to say Mitzah smells "synthetic" - it smells rich and of intensely good quality. The overall gestalt is a non-cakey vanilla, with smoky resinous notes, wood, and a center spine of spicy/floral geranium with a little cinnamon, maybe, and maybe a touch of pepper.
The notes per Fragrantica are: coriander, rose, spices, cinnamon, labdanum, vanilla, honey, patchouli and incense. I may well be conflating the rose and coriander combination with geranium, but what came to my nose was geranium.