The only frederic malle of the original FM collection that gives me pause. I cannot smell much beyond possibly way overripe Melon and an overwhelming sense of sweetness. I do normally try not to give perfumes a poor rating if it's solely due to differences of personal taste, but i think that one's feelings about UPdT are basically whether you want to smell like over ripe melon. upon subsequent wearings, if I strained and thought about it, I imagined that I could detect citric and herbal tones. I also sought out vintage diorella EdT (which I found initially much more challenging to wear, but ultimately not nearly as problematic as UPdT). Also UPdT is very tenacious. You have to scrub to get the sweetness off the skin.
I don't find fruit normally an issue. in fact I wear vintage rochas femme (plum); vintage Patou colony (pineapple chypre); mitsouko (peach chypre); shiseido feminitie de bois (sweet dried fruit oriental) and lutens bois en fruit and probably others. I will continued to try a spritz when I am home alone or when i am outside and well ventilated and not likely to trouble others. I feel I should keep trying since the romance of the story and the idea of Routnitska's genius was my justification to purchase a full bottle. I don't mind smelling like a grapefruit or an orange or a bitter orange, as i I wear guerlain aqua allegoria pamplemousse, atelier orange sanguine and Hermes orange vert regularly in the summer. But, they aren't as sweet or watery fruit accord.
Edit: I saw green and vetiver listed in the notes of UPdT somewhere. Perhaps I will try a dab of something green or chypre underneath to see if it becomes less melon on me. Though, the thought of being unable to scrub off that mix (given that my oakmoss chypre scents are monsters in and of themselves) is somewhat daunting,
To me, Le Parfum de Therese smells like bubble gum, plum bubble gum if such a thing exists. Very little evolution, not much complexity, poor longevity, and very expensive of course; I don't hate this fragrance, mind you, but would never buy it. That some people are willing to shell out so much money to get it really intrigues me. However, if I get a chance, I'll test it again just to check if my impressions are a little different, but I really doubt my review will go from "not worth the hype" to "great, I want it".
I suspect that this is what Femme would smell like if they had not cheapened the formula and added that dreadful note of cumin. Limpid and fruity, this is a scent of hot weather, sultry humidity, and opulent fruit. No plasticky pink grapefruits, no generic red candy, and no overpowering sweetness. This is more fresh, lush and grown up. If you are keen on fruity florals, but do not enjoy the bumper crop of cheaply made and mass produced celebri-scents, try this.
If I didn't know the actual age of this fragrance, I'd assume it was a so-called "modern chypre"--the fruit notes, the suede-like texture, the absence of noticeable oakmoss. It's a skin scent in both senses of the word--staying close to the skin, and having a soft, skin-like quality. A remarkable achievement for its time.
This is not a perfume to be read or written about. It must be experienced. An absolute Masterpiece!
Roudnitska helped to usher in an age of fresh simplicity in perfumery, and true to type Le Parfum de Thérèse is not one of those perfumes that announces your presence as you walk into a room. It shares the quiet splendour of Guerlain Mitsouko, but much more fruit than chypre, takes on a youthful vivacity that makes me think of the tan, lissome legs of Brigitte Bardot in a carelessly languid, barefoot saunter. But this is not your Sephora's fruity-floral, the glow of peachy lactone, brightened unto incandescence with juicy tangerine, honeysweet melon, and the candied effervescence of violet, is thrown boozily together like fine sangria. Unlike the more ozonic, crisply hesperidic Diorella, Le Parfum de Thérèse is quite opulent beneath its mouthwatering surface—a chilly haze of grey pepper and rose, a thinly synthetic raspberry, lushly indolic jasmine, spiced plums and cedar, sueded vetiver—and yet in spite of its complexity not the least bit histrionic or oppressive, thanks to Roudnitska's lifelong interest in unsaturated, weightless olfactory expression. To my nose, this is the ultimate fruity fragrance, not sharp or artificially saccharine, but the true, lush aroma of perfectly ripe melons, nature sweet.
Why is it the worst scents stay on me for the longest time? Even soap couldn't get this wretched fragrance off of my skin. I got none of the lovely bits others have described with this perfume; I smelled like cantaloupes rotting in the sun for four days, and that is about all. Nothing changed about this scent from the first time I applied it until the next day when it finally wore off a bit. Just awful from beginning to end. Extremely glad I had a sample and not an entire bottle; this is a perfume I'll stay far away from forever.
This is a grown-up, sexy, innovative scent.
It is a mixture of sensuous, ripe fruit, luscious, animalic jasmine and ever-so-slightly naughty leather.
I get goosebumps when I put this on!
This is a beauty just not my type of scent personally. If you like this you have to try, imho, Parfum Delrae's Emotionelle. It's composed by Michel Roudnitska (the son of Edmond who composed this scent) and has the melon note figuring prominently. It's a refined fruity floral yet I find it a bit more relaxed & softer while I think of Therese as more mature and elegant. I find that these are similar scents though and they share quite a few notes.
This was recommended to me by a fragrance expert, based on the history of other scents I have enjoyed.
The opening was much like those scents I have enjoyed (Cristalle, Calyx, Antonia's Flowers). I was initially excited that I had maybe found my new mainstay scent. The opening is a bright, greenish fruity floral, it smelled gorgeous to me initially. It reminded me a lot of Valentino (long since discontinued).
Then it wore down to something less intoxicating, and more ordinary...too fruity, lacking in delicacy and subtlety, on me..I know especially in good scents with quality ingredients, they can vary tremendously on each individual. This is probably beautiful on lots of people, and it was on me..just for 20 minutes or so..