If this worked on my skin chemistry, it would get a 4.5.
I love the idea of this extrait (I have a modern rendition), but I find it more challenging to wear than any other caron with the possible exception of narcisse noir (indolic jasmine aspect, like Acasciosa) wrecks havoc on my skin) and Yatagan (something about the phenolic and animalic facets of Yatagan don't quite work either. (I am a woman who likes to wear all types of fragrance, including men's fragrance, but Yatagan is perhaps too much testosterone for me.
No one would describe Acasciosa as a typical jasmine or fruity (pineapple) fragrance (in Contrast to Patou Colony). To me, it defies description because I don't have another fragrance to use as a frame of reference. It's sumptuous, rich in a honeyed golden way, the same way that vintage tabac blonde is darkly smoky. Even if one doesn't like vintage fragrance, it is easy to admire the facets of this, almost as visible as a jewel.
acasciosa is not uber sweet on me, but I do get a sense of honeyed fruit, resin, leather, incense and indole. The indolic effect is worse in hot weather; if I wear either Acasciosa or Narcisse Noir (I have a tiny bit of vintage NN extrait) in the heat, I worry that they turn a bit urinous. Apologies for the graphic. But I keep trying both because they are stunning examples of perfume history that I happen to adore.
Acasciosa is NOT as indolic on me as Schiaperelli Shocking vintage - that is a complete scrubber in any weather.
If you are interested, I advise that you test this one before purchase. I can wear fragrances that others find challenging, ie, Malle's une fleur de cassie or Lutens MKK, but for heritage extrait like these, it's safest to test.
Oh, I am in love with this stuff! I don't get jasmine; maybe my nose has not caught up with all of jasmine's shape-shifting qualities. What I get is black locust—mistakenly referred to as acacia by some—a tree I grew up with whose blooms are powerful and honeyed. Yes, I get honey in Acaciosa, but also enough tartness to think of this as a delicious sweet and sour fragrance, this could be the pineapple at work, the slightly forbidding white pineapple f my youth that has been replaced wholly in the supermarket by "Dole Golden" pineapple, which has more sugar and is less aromatic.
It smells like nothing else, though in further samplings, I could relate it to En Avion or Que Sais-Je?, both of which strike me as "chypr-fied" Acaciosa. I do love Acaciosa for not being a chypre, I get sweet/sour floral from beginning to nearly the end, which is resinous and honeyed to my nose.
I got a generous sample of the parfum from a friend, now to buy...
Creamy, elegant, sweet floral; lighter version of the Caron base. At a certain point, it smells like slightly carmelized, honeyed pineapple. Different and good; not at all foody, barely gourmand. Definitely a floral.
Acaciosa is an incredibly full-bodied floral that softens the heavy indolic quality of jasmine with pineapple, and yet one would be hard-pressed to qualify Acaciosa as a fruity floral. Without foreknowledge, that pineapple note doesn't read as a fruit but as something indescribable and difficult to name.
I find jasmine a difficult note to wear. It is subjected to as many creative treatments as rose, sometimes appearing as airy and insubstantial (Keiko Mecheri), sometimes as a thick, forbidding soap (Lutens), and at other times ragged with drying grasses (Haie Fleurie). It is often too sweet and heady (any EO) and, like honeysuckle, too much.
Acaciosa is wearable for me as a combination of all of the above elements, plus something additional: Acaciosa smells a bit abstract, as if it were an attempt to corral all of the note's possible contradictions into one fragrance: Is it sweet or sickening? Is it ebullient or decaying? In its womanliness, is it perhaps deadly?
That pineapple note might not be adequately grasped, but its effect certainly can be. It is as sweet as the jasmine, perhaps more so, and equally as fleshy even as it lacks the piquancy of the juice. By pairing off two notes of such sweet magnitude, the scent renders both less potent by half, creating a hybrid floral that contains elements of both. I also detect a bit of soap in the heart notes.
It is impossible to relate Acaciosa to any modern release; to do so would be to invite either laughter (what passes for a perfume these days) or horror (the industry has been destroyed by the taste of teens and the queasy concept of mall America). It smells like nothing else out there and even if it has been reformulated, it still smells unique and possibly far too lush for its own good. Acaciosa, to borrow a verb that overheated romantic literature has often applied to a woman's breast or abdomen, swells. When the experience nears the edge of being overly ripe, Caron pulls back with the base resins that are not quite of an earthy variety. Rather, they smell more lived in and quaint, like the inside of a voyager's antique trunk that contains a slim stick of incense. Any attempt Caron makes to pander to today's marketplace (with any of their scents, really) is awkward, because something like Acaciosa will never meet with mainstream acceptance and is best enjoyed as a hidden secret, a fragrant obscurity, the rara avis of jasmine scents. continued >>
Acaciosa is a delicious, resinous jasmine with a streak of pineapple running through it. Not a sunny, bright pineapple, but a dark, caramelized one. This might make it sound like Acaciosa is a dark, heavy perfume all around, but the jasmine has a wonderful clarity to it. I only realized this while sipping some jasmine-infused green tea. I recognized the smell immediately: It was the jasmine note in Acaciosa! Candied pineapple and jasmine tea in the afternoon. What could be better?
A pineapple note in fragrances usually conjures up visions of tropical beaches, blue skies, sun and suggests a lighter fragrance. But Ernest Daltroff manages to take pineapple indoors after sundown and with his usual panache has rented a private home on a Tahitian beach, filled it with bouquets of white flowers and is serving pineapple martinis for two next to a window outside of which is growing night blooming jasmine. Jasmine and pineapple are the two dominant initial notes in this fragrance to my nose, but Daltroff has given them a depth and intensity with a rich, sweet woods and amber base. The notes given for this fragrance are jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, orange blossom, ylang ylang, pineapple, orange blossom, jasmine, sandalwood, amber, vanilla and musk. Yet another absolutely beautiful classic Caron.
Smells like a marvelous bouquet of white flowers. A long lasting, beautiful fragrance.
I love most jasmine perfumes and so I like this Caron as well, but I don't find it all that distinctive and I also concur with the reviews below that it's too resinous in its base and drydown for me.
I purchased a 20 ml bottle of this from the Boutique a couple of years ago and have only worn it a few times. On hot summer days it is quite nice but my husband said there was something musty and old about it. He says Joy in pure parfum is spicier and younger smelling. There are some very dedicated fans of Acaciosa and there is a pineapple note with the jasmine but in drydown this purity changes. EDIT: IT has taken a few years, but now I adore Acasiosa. I've ordered a huge bottle. There is nothing typical about any of the older Carons and Acasiosa is no exception. It is an extremely rich and resinous floral, but it is the resinous base that keeps it from being like so many other jasmine soliflorals that are heavy, mucky and almost vinyl sweet. This quality allows it to be easily worn anywhere at anytime and makes the quiet statement of impeccable taste. A thing of rare and exquisite beauty.