Wonderful fragrance! I discovered Treizieme Heure today by chance and I am delighted. What a pleasure to discover a smoked audacious fragrance in the wave of flowery sweet and unremarkable commercial fragrances of these last years. And by coincidence, I am wearing these days Bulgari Black, so it was like meeting somebody from the family. A more feminine sister, less abrupt, less urban and dark as Black but still with a very string personality. A very beautiful smoked tea juice with a frail whiff of citrus in the middle and a sweeter dry down. If it was not for the price (eur 225) I would have bought it on spot and wear it more in the evening or with a more elegant dress and leave Black for everyday wear.
This is my favorite of the line thus far, a definitely unisex transparent leather. I always love citrus and leather, as in Hugo Boss' defunct Boss Spirit or Guerlain's Derby. While this is a far lighter and more modern composition, where the leather has a steely birch quality, and the citrus is fresh and tart, I still love the contrast of fresh and lively to dark and brooding. The vanilla makes XIII unisex, as it's just enough to keep the women in the game, but not to drive the men away. There is also some Earl Grey in there, which surprised me because another in the series is a tea based scent. The patchouli is a minor player, and while it contributes to the base, this is in no way a patchouli scent.
My criticisms are that this is too light, especially for an EdP, and also that it is disproportionately costly for the concentration. Finally, it doesn't make me crazy the way I want my perfume to- it's simply too restrained given the exotic ingredients.
Leathery, smoky and complex, there are many facets to this wonderful gender defying scent created by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier's exclusive line.
My suggestion to sample it properly is to apply lightly to bring out all the various layers, at the heart of which lies a wonderful tobacco/hay like narcissus. If overapplied you miss the best bits and go straight to the smoky tar drydown, not dissimilar to Le Labo's Patchouli 24. If the latter is thick black velvet, the Thirteenth Hour is a set of black veils, one on top of the other.
The listed notes are helpful in understanding this fragrance. They are: Leather / Mate' / Birch / Narcissus / Bergamot / Patchouli / Vanilla.
The bottle is stunning, presented in a beautiful trade mark Cartier red box and with a separate leather holder for travelling. Expensive but totally worth it in my opinion.