I love discovering classic fragrances lurking in drugstore aisles and tend to prefer vintage perfume styles over a lot of modern fragrance releases, so I enthusiastically bought Cabochard blind. I'm not scared of strong fragrances (I adore Tabu) and I appreciate the chypre genre (my favourite one to date being Aromatics Elixir), but Cabochard simply does not work well on me.
The gorgeous, almost sparkling green herbal notes wear off quite quickly on me and I am left with an unrelenting and very flat leather tobacco scent that simply reads as glum and stuffy. It's a shame, because Cabochard lasts amazingly well for an EDT, does smell classy and wonderfully vintage, but I just don't enjoy the endless leather tobacco aura (and I'm an ex-smoker, so go figure). Just for the record, I also didn't love the more modern Cabotine by Gres, so perhaps this perfume house and I simply don't gel.
Worth a try for chypre lovers but wouldn't recommend buying blind.
A slap in the face with an old dusty glove smudged in alcohol after wiping a spilled drink off a century-old rug stretched over a loooooooooong hall of a victorian villa in north London. A cream-coloured blouse with manly cufflinks with onyx, a vintage "doctor" bag carelessly thrown next to the sofa, cloudy skies foretelling an evening of burning the midnight oil at a cherrytree desk on a suede-upholstered chair. Green banker lamps, rain starting to spit onto the newly washed windows, a forgotten cigarette smoking itself
in suspense in a marble ashtray... This is what a vintage bottle breathes into my mind. What I got today in Galeria Kaufhof from a 30 ml EDT bottle reduced to 10 EUR was a fake leather belt blitz-wrapped around my neck and pulled hard until i saw the world spinning... I seriously thought i was going to faint, and I NEVER faint! This was a cocktail of death I wouldn't even serve to my worst enemy. Burnt rubber, the worst kind of faux leather, stain remover from the 70s spilled on top of all that and put on a slow fire. I could not stress enough how revolting that felt. Try it on an empty stomach and with sniffing salts at reach! Would I buy this product ( forget the "again" here )? - " no way in hell" is the button I am looking for here...
City association: North London
Persona association: Margaret Thatcher
This was a blind buy for me because the price was reduced so low for such a large bottle of Paris made fragrance. I usually cannot go wrong with a fragrance made in France. I brought it home and read all the reviews before I opened it as you cannot return it after it is open to this store. The reviews and fragrance notes sounded good to me. I opened it with great expectations. That first spray was very nice. Sort of reminded me of several of my favorite scents all rolled into one. A bit like Shalimar, Youth Dew, Cinnabar, maybe a touch of tuberose too. I liked it very much actually. I have to take away one star for the end of this fragrance though. The end, the very end, you know the smell left over in your skin, can't really smell the perfume notes any longer just dry left overs. Well this ending smell turned me off. I do like this fragrance but this in one I would have to make sure I showered off after wearing so it loses a point in my book. For the price and such a large bottle, it is a good buy, but I will not need to buy another bottle for the rest of my life. ;-)
I started to use this fragrance at the age of 18.I have used it over 25 years.
I'm searching for it in many Parfumeries and at the internet,without any succes.
I would like to buy and use it again.
The photo above is of the packaging for vintage Cabochard, which is the only one that works for me now. Vintage is a sexy, somewhat "bitter" leather fragrance, but the reformulation is just nasty bitter. Can't count the times I've hoped against hope and bought yet another spray bottle of the new version, then sold it at a street fair, or otherwise passed it on. Now I go lemming for the tried and true original. It is sexy in a 60s way, like the original Rive Gauche, original White Linen, etc., etc., if you catch my drift. How I envy those for whom the second generation formulas of these work welll. Lucky you, and enjoy!
I may be alone in saying that the reformulated EDT is a-ok with me. My dim memories of the vintage parfum (grandma had it on her nightstand) are of a powerfully musty and dusty scent that blended cigarette butts, old shoes, and faded doilies crumbling in a cedar drawer.
I realize now that an 8-year-old was not in a position to appreciate Cabochard, but since the EDT (& reformulated EDP) are sold widely and I like them, I have no desire to relive the parfum and its associations with grandma's stuffy, ornate apartment.
The EDT reminds me a lot of other dry, soapy chypres like Jovan Woman, Paloma Picasso, and Aromatics Elixir (minus the heavy florals). However, it is perhaps the purest chypre of the bunch, starting out with a brisk citrus/herbal/galbanum opener and moving quickly into the woods and patchouli with very few floral detours. It's basically everything I like about chypres, with none of what I don't. On me, this wears light, clean, and sophisticated, with that magical cool chypre sillage. I LOVE it.
As for saving this stuff for formal occasions, I don't get it. But I've never understood why certain fragrances are deemed "casual" or "dressy." It's a smell, not an outfit. I am comfortable wearing Cabochard to stay at home with the kids, as well as working in a hospital setting. I don't really have many elegant soirees to attend these days, so why save a lovely scent for that? It just plain smells great on me.
I got a slightly musty old French perfume at the onset, but with soft floral melange almost like powdery velvet underneath. A faint touch of the medicated powder notes I dislike in other vintages (Vol de Nuit does this on me particularly), but it's not pronounced. Still, it dried down to too much powdery galbanum for me. My sister wears this style better, so I'll pass this onto her. This was sampled from a vintage mini.
A masterpiece of classic French perfumery by Bernard Chant,who also gave the world the wonderful Aromatics Elixir.It is very much of its time,"perfumey" in that traditional well groomed,ladylike,Parisian way.I first smelled this when I was 13 (ie A Long Time Ago) and I did not like it then-it seemed too complex and disturbing.Nowadays I can appreciate the craftsmanship of the composition,the balance and sheer quality of the ingredients.EL Azuree and Piguet's celebrated Bandit are similar leather chypres,but this to me is the best worked out and most lovely of this genre.I'm speaking about vintage parfum-I haven't smelled the reformulation,which I imagine is without oakmoss and therefore not worthy of the name Cabochard,which means uncompromising,or even at a stretch bloody-minded.
My recent encounter with the tough leather in Serge Lutens Boxeuses made me think of Cabochard, actually the first ever fragrance I "sampled" - i.e. as a little girl, I walked to my mothers closet, reached for a vintage bottle of it, touched the gray ribbon, felt the sensual lid and opened and sniffed it – boy it was one serious smell!
Now, decades later and with my mother still swearing by all formulations of it, I can say that this a fragrance that I appreciate but do not like it on my own person. Should be noted though: the opening is magical. It is a breezy and powdery, magical iris that gives me visions of blue clouds opening like a field in the horizon. I think this is aldehydes just at the right dose. Very soon, a tough but rounded leather emerges from unbelievable depths. This is the leather of long black coats or gloves that go so well with big sunglasses and silk scarves. It is both serious and wild at the same time and denotes a timeless air. Unfortunately, on the wrong chemistry, it also smells very heavy metal - or maybe I need to build my way up to this leather queen, I don't know.
I was lucky to acquire a vintage mini parfum of Cabochard somewhat recently. I definitely have mixed feelings about this parfum. It is a very very dark and serious fragrance, smoky leather and bitchy greenness bridged by basic soap. I inhaled deeply and recalled the mid 70s smoky haze, a smokers purse, gas-station liquid hand soap (from the 70s) and Charlie. It's a little like Charlie, only the darkness actually works here. The citrus is barely perceptible but it does lend a slight gleam to the facets throughout. I am not sure how I could pull this scent off. We shall see. I don't think I would buy again but am surely glad to have had the opportunity to try it for myself.