Cabochard is so many things - green, leathery, woody, floral, indolic... It begins with a definitive juicy-green character, like frsehly squeezed wheatgrass; yet there is something ashy and dry underneath. The health-concious wheatgrass juicer is also a chain smoker. The nicotine in her veins brings the best of her - creativity, energy, laughter. It's balanced again with some medicinal sage, and pretty, clean and proper neroli and enough rose to make you think of a rose garden but not smell like an English lady. Orange blossom and jasmine make advances as the perfume develops on the skin. These two bold notes, while indolic and dirty, also have a zest of life to them, a very forward personality, with the methyl anthranilate shining through beautifully and bringing some sweetness into the green. They are only ever so slightly soft-focused with powdery orris note. As for the base - it's what you've always dreamed of: oakmoss, tobacco and vetiver, with some isobutyl quinoline for good measure.
Cabochard to me seems to have predicted the future of the 1970's - No. 19, especially, to whom it is a very close relative with the same motifs of leather, greens, juicy citrus notes, iris, leather and vetiver; interplay between green, dry and floral-powdery. As well as everything that followed, dominated by green, herbaceous and soapy notes. The leading scents in this trend were No. 19, Ivoire, Estée Lauder's Azurée (by perfumer Bernard Chant), Alliage and Private Collection; Coriandre, Calandre, Chamade, 1000, AnaisAnais, and Aromatics Elixir (also designed by Bernard Chant), and of course Rive Gauche. I'm glad I found out who is the perfumer behind it (though I'm certain that Guy Robert's Chouda was magnificent!) and see the connections with his other creations.
Top notes: Sage, Rose, Neroli
Heart notes: Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Orris
Base notes: Vetiver, Leather, Oakmoss, Tobacco
Awesome! I am so glad to have this site! I have researched all the perfumes I have loved in the past and it gives me confidence going forth in my purchases. Thank you....
Cabochard is ANOTHER blind buy that is tailor made for me. In fact the GRES company is tailor made for me. I have Cabotine and it is lovely and one of my perfume personalities. But Cabochard is my favorite personality tough, passionate and deep.
In closing, I highly recommend this to ladies 30 and up. It is smoky, powdery, sexy and nothing like the modern fragrances out today.
One more thing, try Overstock.com for this fragrance.
The current EDP is pretty much a linear scent on me -- starts out brisk, green & herbal with a squeeze of lime juice, then goes straight to a pleasant, dry amber. It does NOTHING for me, though easy enough to wear, which, I suppose, accounts for its popularity & why it's rarely available, even at online discounters. Good sillage & longevity, though the asking price (currently, about $60 for 100ml on strawberrynet after 21% discount) is outrageous given that it's nothing special at all. The vintage version must have been a multi-faceted stunner, but the reformulation is just disappointing & not worth the money, in my opinion. Can't speak for the EDT as I have never tested it, but from what I've read on Fragrantica, it's a different animal entirely (darker & much more complex with leather & tobacco) & some people think it's still a worthy reformulation. Also, unlike the EDP, the EDT apparently still contains oakmoss.
I love discovering classic fragrances lurking in drugstore aisles and tend to prefer vintage perfume styles over a lot of modern fragrance releases, so I enthusiastically bought Cabochard blind. I'm not scared of strong fragrances (I adore Tabu) and I appreciate the chypre genre (my favourite one to date being Aromatics Elixir), but Cabochard simply does not work well on me.
The gorgeous, almost sparkling green herbal notes wear off quite quickly on me and I am left with an unrelenting and very flat leather tobacco scent that simply reads as glum and stuffy. It's a shame, because Cabochard lasts amazingly well for an EDT, does smell classy and wonderfully vintage, but I just don't enjoy the endless leather tobacco aura (and I'm an ex-smoker, so go figure). Just for the record, I also didn't love the more modern Cabotine by Gres, so perhaps this perfume house and I simply don't gel.
Worth a try for chypre lovers but wouldn't recommend buying blind.
A slap in the face with an old dusty glove smudged in alcohol after wiping a spilled drink off a century-old rug stretched over a loooooooooong hall of a victorian villa in north London. A cream-coloured blouse with manly cufflinks with onyx, a vintage "doctor" bag carelessly thrown next to the sofa, cloudy skies foretelling an evening of burning the midnight oil at a cherrytree desk on a suede-upholstered chair. Green banker lamps, rain starting to spit onto the newly washed windows, a forgotten cigarette smoking itself
in suspense in a marble ashtray... This is what a vintage bottle breathes into my mind. What I got today in Galeria Kaufhoff from a 30 ml EDT bottle reduced to 10 EUR was a fake leather belt blitz-wrapped around my neck and pulled hard until i saw the world spinning... This was a cocktail of death I wouldn't even serve to my worst enemy. Burnt rubber, the worst kind of faux leather, stain remover from the 70s spilled on top of all that and put on a slow fire. I could not stress enough how revolting that felt. Try it on an empty stomach and with sniffing salts at reach! Would I buy this product ( forget the "again" here )? - " no way in hell" is the button I am looking for here...
City association: North London
Persona association: Margaret Thatcher
This was a blind buy for me because the price was reduced so low for such a large bottle of Paris made fragrance. I usually cannot go wrong with a fragrance made in France. I brought it home and read all the reviews before I opened it as you cannot return it after it is open to this store. The reviews and fragrance notes sounded good to me. I opened it with great expectations. That first spray was very nice. Sort of reminded me of several of my favorite scents all rolled into one. A bit like Shalimar, Youth Dew, Cinnabar, maybe a touch of tuberose too. I liked it very much actually. I have to take away one star for the end of this fragrance though. The end, the very end, you know the smell left over in your skin, can't really smell the perfume notes any longer just dry left overs. Well this ending smell turned me off. I do like this fragrance but this in one I would have to make sure I showered off after wearing so it loses a point in my book. For the price and such a large bottle, it is a good buy, but I will not need to buy another bottle for the rest of my life. ;-)
I started to use this fragrance at the age of 18.I have used it over 25 years.
I'm searching for it in many Parfumeries and at the internet,without any succes.
I would like to buy and use it again.
The photo above is of the packaging for vintage Cabochard, which is the only one that works for me now. Vintage is a sexy, somewhat "bitter" leather fragrance, but the reformulation is just nasty bitter. Can't count the times I've hoped against hope and bought yet another spray bottle of the new version, then sold it at a street fair, or otherwise passed it on. Now I go lemming for the tried and true original. It is sexy in a 60s way, like the original Rive Gauche, original White Linen, etc., etc., if you catch my drift. How I envy those for whom the second generation formulas of these work welll. Lucky you, and enjoy!
I may be alone in saying that the reformulated EDT is a-ok with me. My dim memories of the vintage parfum (grandma had it on her nightstand) are of a powerfully musty and dusty scent that blended cigarette butts, old shoes, and faded doilies crumbling in a cedar drawer.
I realize now that an 8-year-old was not in a position to appreciate Cabochard, but since the EDT (& reformulated EDP) are sold widely and I like them, I have no desire to relive the parfum and its associations with grandma's stuffy, ornate apartment.
The EDT reminds me a lot of other dry, soapy chypres like Jovan Woman, Paloma Picasso, and Aromatics Elixir (minus the heavy florals). However, it is perhaps the purest chypre of the bunch, starting out with a brisk citrus/herbal/galbanum opener and moving quickly into the woods and patchouli with very few floral detours. It's basically everything I like about chypres, with none of what I don't. On me, this wears light, clean, and sophisticated, with that magical cool chypre sillage. I LOVE it.
As for saving this stuff for formal occasions, I don't get it. But I've never understood why certain fragrances are deemed "casual" or "dressy." It's a smell, not an outfit. I am comfortable wearing Cabochard to stay at home with the kids, as well as working in a hospital setting. I don't really have many elegant soirees to attend these days, so why save a lovely scent for that? It just plain smells great on me.
I got a slightly musty old French perfume at the onset, but with soft floral melange almost like powdery velvet underneath. A faint touch of the medicated powder notes I dislike in other vintages (Vol de Nuit does this on me particularly), but it's not pronounced. Still, it dried down to too much powdery galbanum for me. My sister wears this style better, so I'll pass this onto her. This was sampled from a vintage mini.