Serge Lutens Cuir mauresque smells of oil painting odalisques languishing in a Bedouin tent and the tooled leather saddles of restless Arabian stallions, but equally of doe-eyed Goth girls languishing in Haight-Ashbury in the 1990s, casting spells like sorceress gazelles in their own mysterious make-believe desert landscape in the shadow of the gargoyle. Excellent longevity and silage.
Notes according to various sources and my personal observation: myrrh, amber, benzoin resin, frankincense, cinnamon, clove, oud, cedar, musk, orange blossom
It is one of the best Serge Lutens perfume ever! Cuir Muresque is a beautyful leather scent, rich and spicy. everything is warm on my skin and sensual. It is not as ''classic' as Veneta Bottega nor 'cool' as Bandit de Robert Piguet, and not even floral like Cuir de Lancome, it is almost suede in his warmest but still have the leather edge. I can't stop wearing this perfume
I almost love Cuir Mauresque. But not quite. "Moorish Leather" - conjures up a potentially exotic experience. Without dwelling on the concept too much and just letting it envelop me, it reminds me of some very familiar things. Hippy (head) shop incense sticks from when I was a kid in the 70's (sometimes I still smell it in those shops that sell healing crystals and tarot cards). Not haunting church incense like CdG's and definitely not provocative dry, desert incense like Andy Tauer's. As it settles ( which is only slightly and it takes a while) the incense becomes powdery like Prada's Infusion d'Iris. Lastly I smell the remnants of what was once one of my favourite scents - vintage Bal a Versaille. If you are not familiar with any of those things, you will probably find CM very unusual, perhaps slightly masculine due to the incense. I've tried to look at this fragrance objectively, putting aside my comparisons. I've closed my eyes and conjured up a story to suit the concept. It's the middle east and it's the reign of the Ottoman Empire. The ladies in silk and beads and antique silver jewellery enter the formal hall of the Sultan's Palace for dinner, walking beside tiled walls and fountains, barefooted on persian carpets. They sit in large soft arm chairs made from leather and animal skins which are perfumed with .... damn, Infusion d'Iris! There are handpainted vases of flowers in this great hall and incense and amber burns in brass pots. The ladies themselves smell softly of .... damn, Bal a Versaille! Nope, there's no getting away from it.
I hated the first 20 minutes, it was too sharp and the oud and cloves made it smell medicinal, i was going to write a rather bad review but as the minutes go by it mellowes to a soft rich incense and amber which i like with distant flowers. so i changed my rating from 2 to 4.
Hideous, I can't believe anyone would wear this or think it smells good. I agree with the comments below that reference the tire store, the asphalt, and the motor oil but this smells worse. I can smell the leather, though. I checked yes for buy again because I am having fun smelling these Serge samples - each one so different.
If I could give two scores, I would also give it a 5 for craftsmanship. This smell is a real smell, the smell of something, i.e., it's not just a collection of notes, it's a powerful smell, and the smell has carved out its place in my brain, so that throughout the day I'd catch a whiff of something and that smell would pop into my brain, even though it was actually gone. I was proud of owning such an unusual perfume so I asked a co-worker to try it, and she said it wasn't that bad (and I was disappointed) and then she immediately washed it off. One hour later she came to my office and said the smell was getting worse and worse! (Although she had washed it off!) That is what we are dealing with here. (I offered her some Bath and Body Works Winter Candy Apple Hand Lotion to help her cover the smell since it wouldn't wash off completely). Of the 3 hideous, 1 bad, 1 not-bad-but-very odd and overpowering, and 1 kind of good but overpowering Serge Lutens samples I've tried, Cuir Mauresque is the most dramatic and impressive. (The six scents referenced in the last sentence are, in order: Cuir Mauresque, Chypre Rouge, and Chene; Gris Clair; Cedre; and Douce Amere). I will be trying some less "challenging" ones soon.
I'm extremely surprised by this scent! I hate masculine fragrances or even unisex will turn harsh on me, but not this one! It's a beautiful creamy floral leather, very dry but also warm. It's so well blended with amber and musc, and after only 10-15 minutes turns to a mellow and sweet deliciousness! Very sexy! How unexpected!
This sadly just smelled like cough medicine to me, not much leather to be found. I agree with another reviewer who said it smelled like a "disguise" for something else. Others might like it, but not for me
"Cuir Mauresque is a rich, smoky and fruity fragrance for both men & women. It's an opulent blend of leather, spices and flowers with notes of amber, myrrh, charred styrax tree, Egyptian jasmine incense, cinnamon, aloe wood, cedar, civet, nutmeg, clove, cumin, musk, mandarin peel and orange blossom."
I haven't had great luck with the Serge Lutens' blends that I've tried. I'm fascinated by Jeux de Peau and love Un Lys (such a pretty, simple lily), but other than that they haven't really been winners for me. Cuir Mauresque smells like a fishing tackle box on me + a whiff of harsh, black smoke. It's disturbing how much it smells like rubber fishing lures on me, lol. Rubber, plastic, chemicals, and smoke. I don't think I would ever have guessed at any of the notes that are supposed to be in this. It smells maybe a bit like a very dark and smoky sort of vetiver, but mostly it's rubber on me. I've kept my sample around just for the novelty of it, but this isn't one that I'll ever wear out of the house.
As a leather lover I really, REALLY wanted to love Cuir Mauresque, but like a lover you *know* isn't good for you but you stick with anyway it's hard to admit when you have to let 'em go. CM starts with a high-octane blast of an acrid gasoline/rubber scent, like the smell of an old gas station. It made me wonder if my sample had turned, especially as this phase of the scent lasted a good 2 hours on my skin. After this CM *finally* calms into a sweet-yet-smoky leather that made me want to curl into it with glee. If CM had less of the former stage and more of the latter I'd buy it with no regrets, but the difficult and tenacious opening gives me pause. Since there's so many scents on my wishlist as-is I'll hold onto my 5ml mini bottle, but more than likely forgo a FB unless I find a partial at a decent price/swap.
Notes: mandarin peel, orange blossom, burnt styrax, incense, cinnamon, nutmeg, amber, myrrh, cumin, musk, cedar, and civet.
This fragrance opens with notes of orange blossom enhanced by mandarin peel, spices and smoke. The result is a rich oriental melange in which the leather accord is not immediately seen. Only after the precedingly dominant orange blossom note has calmed down, does the leather note appear. It is unlike the leather accords seen in Daim Blond and Boxeuses, it is thicker and sturdier. I'd use this kind of leather to make a Hermes saddle or a Balanciaga biker jacket. Once the leather accord has taken its rightful throne the remainder of the herald notes gather around it to create a very sensual and soothing scent. As the fragrance progresses warmer notes such amber, myrrh and musk add a powdery clean finish to the leather accord intensifying its comforting qualities. My only quibble with this fragrance is the overuse of orange blossom and amber, to me they smother the leather accord which I would have fleshed out more. Lasts for roughly 6 hours on my skin.