Citrus rose amber that is in a category entirely by itself. Could easily win over those who are positive that they don't like rose or modern chypre. To my nose, this is almost more of a unisex, citrus, floral amber oriental with gourmand but not sugar sweet leanings. It is not powdery or overtly rose or thin. Not a dark rose IMO, but most roses to me, with the exception of aromatics elixir and Voleur de roses, aren't dark to my mind, even 1991 l'arte di gucci, EdP.
I also think very highly of Andy Tauer's perfume and marketing sensibilities and love the way one can obtain a small discovery coffret in tasteful and practical packaging on his website. I initially thought Piguets baghari of slightly less modern vintage, seemed to be, at the opening stage, reminiscent of Une Rose Chypre. But, I quickly determined that Baghari is much more femme, more rose, more conventionally perfumed with a floral sweet and vintage powder dry down.
Extreme hot weather caused the citrus in Une Rose Chypre to turn a bit sweet on my skin (an issue I have with eau de Hadrian, eau de Sud and terre de Hermes). In colder weather, there is no objectionable sweetness. If your skin doesn't turn citrus into candy, then this is a non issue.
Something interestingly about the spice in Une Rose Chypre (maybe bay leaf) makes me think of vintage le Galion Special for Gentlemen or vintage Rochas Femme (I have not tried any of the reformulated le galion line or the relatively modern Femme with overt cumin yet). I am pretty sure that the three do not have similar fragrance accords, but all give me the impression of thoughtful well blended compositions with unique balances of amber, floral and/or herbal/spice components.
There is a distinct and unique base to Tauer's fragrances which I look forward to exploring; nothing like the popular base of amber, vanilla, styrax, benzoin, etc in many modern fragrances today. Am also fond of his Incense Rose. And, Tauer's lodestar memories is also in a class all by itself (well, I think Caron's Natagan is as compelling, but again different accords).
Starts off like a really nice version of Tocade without the nail varnish note and dries down to something close to Habanita. I get a lot of rose and vanilla. First the rose is lush and yummy and ends being a little dusty. All in all nice. Definately goes on strong, so you only need a drop. But I find that the lasting power is not that great. I mean, it does last quite long, but compared to how powerful it is when applied, I expected it to last longer. I would love a full bottle.
I received this is a swap, sniffed it, wore it, keep wearing it, and over a course of 2 days finished the decant and ordered a full bottle.
I can't describe this other than it brings to mind a person, in a time and place, that holds a beautiful and almost forgotten memory. It reminds me of what a scent can do and its magic.
Green rose for a start, turns into a sweeter heart, ends up in mossy, woody dry-down. Rich, pleasant, well balanced between green and sweet. I like it
I fell in love URC after a lazy evening of wearing it and getting a chance to let it develop and appreciate it.
After that I was hooked.
I love the beginning and look forward to what seems a never ending drydown that morphs and changes into a decadent powdery amber that lingers on my skin forever.
I catch whiffs of it and it pleases me like no other.
People talk of it's powerhouse formula and how they have to dab, I love to spray it and revel in it.
I will always have this in my collection.
My favorite new fragrance of 2009. As with most poeple, I grew up in an era where you associated a chypre or a rose scent as being "old lady".
Over the past two years, I have found great quality chyprees to be wonderful, weird, and hard to find in mainstream department stores.
This fragrance is gorgeous and dark. It is sexy, animalic, and gutsy. If I had to give you a visual, I would say Ava Gardner in her prime.
Haunting, fascinating, utterly gorgeous.
In a decade where comments of experienced perfume enthusiasts are decorated with genuine nostalgia for true or "real" perfumes of the past, I feel lucky to have witnessed the release of this beautiful Tauer. I love most things Tauer as I love vanilla and resins - and I also like foody smells and Liz Claiborne:)) I tend to avoid roses as they are often too pink and polite to my nose - my only other rose perfume is the greedy Fleurs de Bulgarie that I believe has a goth attitude. Une Rose Chyprée is different. Despite its wide range of notes that feel like a salute to different fragrance families, it is a unique interpretation that does not have a futile attempt to satisfy the chyprée and gourmand lovers at the same time- how horrendous would that be! On the contary, it is a tremendous blend that hints at an intelligent crossroad but does its own thing in a versatile way. On me, the oakmoss base gives a fantastic depth to the vintage rose but the result is just like modern classical music sounds to my ears. I am a music lover and I have worn this to the opera. I felt like I was dressed in velvet. I wore it to a couple of grunge and noise gigs with deep V necks and felt super accessible and unreachable at the same time. It also goes well with jazz clubs. My next plan is to stock this masterpiece, be forced to declare bankruptcy and feel completely untouchable at the courtroom i.e. I am addicted.
I am at a loss to describe this fragrance - can a fragrance be a warm, enveloping spicy rose and still be fresh and sparkling? Sweet, but not cloying, this is a marvelous fragrance! There is citrus, rose, vanilla and whatever note makes this a "chypre". Comforting bursts of cinnamon waft engagingly, weaving in and out of the perfume. I get a hint of powder in the drydown - not baby powder but fancy powder. This is a "big" scent but not overwhelming. Don't overspritz - no need - it lasts and lasts. It sings on the skin and has lovely silliage. See, Andy CAN make a gorgeous fragrance without birch tar! While the rose is definately present, I am awful at trying to describe it - it is perhaps closest to the candied rose of Rose Brulure but fresher. It is not a Montale rose, certainly not a sour rose or a L'occitane rose. If you showed me all the notes in this scent, I think I would shrug and think to myself "rose, cinnamon, bay leaf....WHAT?!?! This will NEVER work" and yet is does - all the notes are discernable but blended together beautifully into a sum larger than all the parts. Well done! I feel "grown up" when I wear this special scent and will treasure it.
Chypres are my fragrance Kryptonite. They're almost always too heavy on me, too stuffy, too matronly...just too much. I've tried making friends with Mitsouko and other beloved chypre classics. In fact, I've tried, re-tried and tried again. We don't click. I wish we did, and I'm sure our rift is due to the lowbrow nature of my nose, but whatever. When a sample of Andy Tauer's new Une Rose Chyprée landed in my mailbox, I stared at it suspiciously for a few days before working up the courage to apply it.
Good lord, the man is a magician. How does he do it? It's a deep, spicy rose, and still obviously a chypre, but there's a smooth doughy vanillic base that keeps my oriental-loving nose glued to my arm. I don't get much of the citrus listed in its notes, and judging from reviews I've read on blogs, I think I'm in the minority on that. It's fabulous. The drydown is sublime. It's not exactly a mating of Le Maroc pour Elle and L'Air du Desert Marocain, but it's many of my favorite parts from the two blended together. I can't wait to see what he comes up with next.