Chanel Cuir de Russie

3.7

81 reviews

53% would repurchase

Package Quality: 4.2

Price: $$$$

Package Quality: 4.2

Price: $$$$

INGREDIENTS



on

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Olive, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Brown

Floralaldehydic leather soap and powder from the 1920s. According to Kafkaesque blog, strong fecal note, and reworked by Polge in the 1980s to increase the amount of iris and powder. I don't object to the animalic quality, but there are better unsweetened phenolic tobacco scents out there for less money. And, for those who wish the quintessential leather scent, with impeccable pedigree, history, and high price, that share the isobutylene quinolone, there is the original tabac blonde extrait by Caron (created several years before CdR that blows this out of the water entirely ( I think Tabac Blond (vintage extrait only) is 5 lippies worthy of an ode, and I don't crave leather). Tabac blond, originally conceived as a men's fragrance, is considered to be far less feminine than CdR (particularly the iris heavy one). Similarly Knize ten is reviewed by many to be far more masculine than CdR. Personally, I find the leather note in Tabac Blond and Knize to be very appealing, but I am a woman who likes a variety of scents including men's cologne. Knize is also described by some as animalic, rubbery, brash, depending on skin chemistry. I don't really recommend any current reformulations of Tabac Blond.

If you want to spend inordinate sums of money for an alternative lady like leather, try diorling extrait from the 1960s. For those who seek a more modern, minimal smoke leather, try Goutal's Eau de Fier which starts out stark smokey bonfire and morphs into rugged leather. And for a more testosterone leather, Tauers Lonestar memories. Leather tobaccos on my list that I have not tried (yet) are LT Piver Cuir de Russie; Dzing; le Labo Patchouli 24; Santa Maria Novella peau d' espagne; halston z-14. IMO, leathery fougeres like Hermes Bel ami, or green leathers like Bandit, are entirely different.

For those of us who like Vintage and for whom leather is not the only faucet of interest in CdR, (those who like the vintage aspects of a smokey creamy floral accord) should also try the much more reasonably priced Caron Nuit de Noel (several years after) which takes similar accords in a different direction. In NdN, the focus is camphoreous incense smoke opening that subsides to a creamy sweet caronade that is not as powdery or sharp as a Guerlainade. . Both CdR and NdN fragrances were created in the 1920s, and both have middle notes of rose, Jasmine, ylang ylang wrapped in aldehydes. CdR finishes with vetiver, styrax, leather, Amber, vanilla. NdN with incense, sandalwood, oakmoss, civet and the famed mousse de saxe accord ( which itself contains geranium, anis, leather, iodine). both are classified loosely as oriental florals; NdN is also considered a chypre due to oak moss. Neither are sweet or gourmand, and both are a bit boozy ( I find the discontinued tea for two sweeter, but also boozy in the same way).

CdR (both the CdR in the rue cambon trio as well as a sizable decant of older EdT) has a floral Chanel 5 feeling. Iin its opening, CdR reminds me a bit of Miss Balmain (vintage extrait square bottle) crossed with a large dollop of no 5. In the dry down, both CdR and NdN are a bit soapy clean skin. When I read that the powder and iris were increased in the 1980s reworking of CdR, part of me wants to dig out my coffret vial of FM iris Poudre.

Note: re leather scents. I have a skin chemistry issue with some leather that I think of as too green, e.g., Piguet Bandit or EL Azuree (the feminine companion to Aramis. Today Azuree would be considered unisex or masculine IMO). CdR, IMO Does not read as such a strong green leather. (I love green Galbanum but with leather, it's hard on my chemistry). IMO fumerie Turque is a totally different smoke fragrance, much more sweet and powdery with a modern niche type overdose of Amber and vanilla. Coromandel, With the emphasis on sandalwood, is totally different in character, both more powdery and less floral, than CdR. Although aramis is considered a leather, to me, CdR is feminine, and aramis is not. There is an aramis Havane that might be a possibility. Some people recommend Bulgari black as a leather. My feeling about Burberry black is rose and rubber. (I don't necessarily view that as a bad thing, just a different category altogether)

I must admit that I was intrigued enough by the positive reviews of the vintage fragrance Avon Leather (1966 men's cologne that definitely seems uber masculine from the reviews) that I searched out and bought some new old stock. I figured that for the price, it can almost be a scent experiment: I can layer it with something floral to get a more feminine or unisex scent. Will update when I get the chance. If you have read any of my prior reviews, I am a fan of vintage Avon (assuming it's in good condition - much of it has been exposed to light and heat and is spoiled and skunky). And, it's my belief that high end niche fragrance houses like Roja Dove are returning to some scents that are considered vintage in style.



on

Age: 36-43

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Brunette, Other, Other

Eyes: Hazel

After my disappointing experience with Tabac Blond, I was afraid this one would evoke the same impressions (that carnation is altogether overwhelming and unpleasant for me), but quite the reverse.
It opens sharp and pungent, and if there's ever a time when it smells distinctly of leather, that's the time, on me. Within 15 minutes it becomes a warm, spicy and somehow fresh smell that causes me to stop what I'm doing when I catch a hint of it, and sniff at my wrist. I'm reminded of wonderful wood scents, a (faint) whiff of something floral, a hint of incense, and sitting next to an older man with really good taste. Maybe George Clooney.
I read today that studies show that olfactory impressions differ as much as 30 percent between individual noses, so maybe that explains why I smell absolutely no barnyard in this. It seems half the wearers of this report horse sweat, even horse manure, but I can't even find a hint of it.
It's not the most enduring of fragrances; I've reapplied it in small doses three times today, but it's potent, so I only put on a very small amount at a time. Sillage is medium, I'd say; after an hour my boyfriend has to get close to smell it, but he noticed it from about three feet away ten minutes after I first applied it, and I smell it while typing for at least two hours until it vanishes.
I'm not the perfumista who can name every note at the heart of this fragrance. All I can tell you is I want cashmere blankets that smell like this. I want to roll around in it. I can definitely see why this scent has been so popular among men; its warm spice makes me feel like I swiped it out of my boyfriend's bathroom cabinet.

2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.


on

Age: 19-24

Skin: Dry, Olive, Warm

Hair: Brown, Other, Medium

Eyes: Brown

This is such a rich, expansive, almost warm scent. Whenever I take a sniff of it I almost feel giddy. Like the Chanel no. 5 EDP, it has almost a sun-warmed element to it, like the tang of a beautiful day.

It smells first off like expensive leather - hence the name. As I said, it's expansive - there's leather, a sort of pleasant smokiness. It also smells a little woody, and I catch a sweet, almost rapturous floral in it too. It makes me think of markets, and the mysterious smell of rugs and candles in rich people's homes.

Once sprayed (carefully, I don't want to run out), there's a definite note of orange blossom. It's a little soapy, a bit like pipe tobacco, and most of all like burying your face deep in some well-worn but pricey leather.

It's a gorgeous, warm scent for colder months. I find that if sprayed on my scarf/clothes, a few hours later (or as I'm changing my clothes), I get a whiff of it and it's a pleasant surprise.

It's almost indefinably rich, and I'm attracted to leather scents, so it's a sweet investment. I try to save it for nice occasions/days when I want an instant olfactory lift, as I paid $92 for a decant.

I like it even more than Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens. It seems like its classy counterpart, Lutens is the burning incense & the scent of souqs. This is like a row of pricy leather chairs.

It's my favourite Chanel, not too cloying or sweet.

2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.


on

Age: 44-55

Skin: Combination, Dark, Warm

Hair: Black, Kinky, Coarse

Eyes: Brown

I love this. It smells expensive, almost like the interior leather of a very expensive car. It took me several wearings to fall in love with it. It has a smoky opening and it was almost medicinal smelling to my nose. After about an hour, I could smell the leather notes mixed it with faint scent of florals. Aldehydes are rich. I put on the EDT one morning and while I love it, once I refreshed it with the parfum strength, I was totally blown away by the wonderfulness of it all. Wow. What an absolute hit out of the ballpark.

2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.


on

Age: 36-43

Skin: Dry, Fair-Medium, Not Sure

Hair: Black, Other, Other

Eyes: Black

I have never been a Chanel perfume girl in my life and when I became a perfume collector myself and a perfumista and began learning and exploring the world of fragrance quite deeply, even then I came to like Guerlain but never Chanel. That was until I came across the Exclusives collection and I found that I really liked all the ones I received those mini bottles of, which included No. 18, 28 La Pausa and 31 Rue Cambon. Of those 28 La Pausa was my fave because it is an iris scent, I have found that Rue Cambon was not complex enough for my taste and No. 18. is simply not me but all are really nice, yet all share one thing in common, which is that they are weak, hence they come in those huge bottles and are really overpriced though definitely great perfumes worth perhaps even that price tag. After this I somehow fell in love with No. 5. and wore it all spring, loved both the EDT and the EDP versions. It happened as I received a soap as a gift and as an animalic scent lover I really smelled the civet but also loved the elegance, powderiness and wearability. A huge classic. Then when I moved to Vienna, Austria, I gained access to the entire line. Cuir de Russie was always one I wanted to try. I am generally not a leather person but an animalic scent person and the moment I smelled it I knew it was me. Hubby loved it too and said the same thing. Cuir de Russie is simply a perfect scent, wearable while animalic and dirty and though weak as all Exclusives are perhaps that is the key to it not being overkill. This has been on my wishlist ever since trying it. The one that I think is even bigger and a larger than life composition is Coromandel, that is probably one of the best created perfumes ever. If I had to choose between the two, well I would be in trouble, I love the complexity of Coromandel and how unique it is and I also love how that one actually seems to have more sillage and lasting power but I also love how I feel that Cuir de Russie is so me and almost a part of me. So which I never thought would happen actually happened, the first perfumes on my wishlist are all Chanel; Cuir de Russie, Coromandel and No. 5. EDP in this order. As much as I tried to resist I simply could not ignore the magnitude of those enormous creations.

7 out of 7 people found this review helpful.


on

Age: 30-35

Skin: Other, Other, Not Sure

Hair: Other, Other, Other

Eyes: Other

LOVE LOVE LOVE CdR! Bought the giant size EdT when les exclusifs was launched, and the parfum extrait when Chanel relaunched it. What can I say, one sniff brings to mind the most beautiful, buttery soft, camel-coloured leather.

There are aldehydic florals and a touch of sweetness- but not too much. I would not say this is a "girly" fragrance -- also it is not for those who like fruity scents. It is definitely not for the mainstream - but I love it all the more for that!

I am constantly complimented on this perfume, and even on occasion hubby steals a bit of the EdT to wear as cologne

2 out of 3 people found this review helpful.


on

Age: 30-35

Skin: Combination, Fair-Medium, Warm

Hair: Blond, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Brown

I got a large decant of this from TPC and have waited a year to review it, I've worn it maybe a dozen of times and sprayed it in the air a bit as well. I just can't bring myself to like it. I agree with many reviewers below that get a "dirty" sense from it, and unfortunately it's not a pleasant dirty to me. Cerulfox's review below points out the animalic style, I agree with that as well. I think the leather and tobacco in this might be the culprit, though I love those notes in other perfumes, I think they're either too strong or are playing off some other notes in a bad way. I will definitely not be purchasing a full size of this.

3 out of 3 people found this review helpful.


on

Age: 56 & Over

Skin: Dry, Fair, Neutral

Hair: Other, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Hazel

Vintage Cuir de Russie was a well balanced leather blend.
I can't find any leather in the current product 2012, nor flowers,
just a rough disagreeable sandalwood. Chanel has killed this
fragrance.

7 out of 9 people found this review helpful.


on

Age: 56 & Over

Skin: Combination, Medium, Warm

Hair: Red, Straight, Fine

Eyes: Blue

Ahh, for a gal who Hates dirty, smelly armpit scents, I found none in this scent. It Was smooth and very girly on me and I loved it. Only problem was: lasted about 1.5 hrs. and at that price I couldn't afford to spray again. Thanks to a lovely swapper, I now know what all the talk was about but it's not in my future. that's why the 3 lippies--too expensive and doesn't last.

2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.


on

Age: 25-29

Skin: Sensitive, Tan, Warm

Hair: Black, Curly, Medium

Eyes: Black

As much as leather is one of my favorite scents, of the (limited, I admit)leather-featured scents I've tried most have gone into plasticky-PVC-bondage leather rather than butter-soft leather gloves passed down from a chic female relative. Cuir de Russie, however, was love at first sniff. It opens with a dirty animalic note that's borderline fecal, but the soft, creamy, spicy florals seep in and smooth out this animal's shaggy fur until Cuir de Russie becomes this heart-achingly beautiful blend with an undercurrent of barely-bridled danger; a lady in leather and lace, a sleek panther at repose in a meadow. I feared the bergamot and mandarin might ruin CdR as citrus is my skin's nemesis, but the two are either nonexistent here or (more than likely) thankfully so well interwoven with the other notes that I can't make out their presence.


I have the current Exclusifs EDT, and so cannot compare to past formulations or the parfum, but I can imagine those are as beautiful if not more so. For an EDT sillage and longevity are quite long, and I only regret buying the smaller EDT. Ah well, more wiggle room in my budget to save for the parfum!

4 out of 4 people found this review helpful.


Popular Fragrances


Coco Mademoiselle
Coco Mademoiselle
1390 Reviews
Black Opium
Black Opium
46 Reviews
Chance
Chance
969 Reviews
BOMBSHELL
BOMBSHELL
147 Reviews

Top Rated Chanel Products

image

Perfect Brows

64 reviews
Back to Top